silicone warning


Recommended Posts

In the past I have used bakers parchment paper to protect soft varnishes when shipping violins. I recently went to a restaurant supply store to buy a new roll and was surprised to see that the description on the box said silicone coated paper. Since silicone contamination will cause serious problems with varnish I didn't buty the stuff but now don't know if this is a change from what I have used in the past or if I have just lucked out up until now. Any way I will be looking for other brands and reading the labels but wanted to warn other people who use this stuff that there might be a problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The thing with silicone is that one need understand it's "states" ...meaning many furniture polishes that are liquid will contain silicone in a suspended liquid state, once sprayed on an object, and then allowed to dry, we have now basically applied a silicone based finish layer on whatever it is we just applied it to...and as we know overspray can contaminate things we don't want o get it on. Many well intending people have polished their piano in place where it sits in their home, ontop of the hardwood floors, this is a nightmare because of course not much adheres to silicone except more silicone, Once it has dried, either by oxygen crosslinking or chemical inducement. It becomes pretty inert and or will not generally be able to re liquefy and thus contaminate another object. There real problem becomes when people use it as a polish and then many years later someone trys to recoaat, touch , etc, Many products in the past may have had it in there as an ingredient, but unsuspecting or unknowing people did not know that and used it. but here again, the silicone was applied as a liquid and then allowed to dry. Once dry like I said, it does not reliqify, and thus can touch other objects without contaminating them, There are very few solvents that can even help breakdown silicone. As long as when you run your fingers over the paper, and you get no sticky residue and it is dry to the touch, then it really shouldn't be an issue.

 

Also, you may want to buy a roll, then apply 3 coats of zinnser seal coat wax free shellac to a say 12x 12 test panel , then take some of the paper and rub it mildly vigourously on the test panel...then recoat...if there is a contamination issue with the paper, you will get fish eye along with areas that, once dry , do not bond and can be scraped off with your fingernail.

 

personally my feelings are, that unless the paper has residue, once dry, it's pretty inert

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.