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I worked on the belly some yesterday.  It has a flatter arch, so it didn't need much on the inside as far as recurve.  The outside didn't even need as much.  I don't cut the f holes in until I have it basically evened out.  It will, like the back, get final tuning after it is glued together, and the purfling is in.  

It started at 86 g. and the tap tones were, G, g, and high g on the guitar.  This happens a lot on bellies.  Do you find that?  Thinning it down, it is 74 g. and F#, f#, and high f#.  The ring tone on the back is f, so they are about the same.  I don't work to any numbers, frequency or weight, I just use them as a rough gauge that they are in the ball park.  If the back or belly was way above the other, it might need some arch changing; or a new piece of wood; not just thinning.  

I cut the f holes in, and checked it again,  F#, f#, and high d#.  So slashing the top drops the ring mode down a minor third; at least on this one.  Both back and belly need more thinning; the original Gofriller is VERY thin.   The back is thin around the edge too, but the belly is just thin in the bouts, and the edges are thicker.  I don't have anything lower than 2.5 or so yet.  I'd feel more comfortable about 1.6 thicknesses if I didn't know that they were there.  

Really, I would.  Wouldn't you?

 Once it is glued together, I don't know what thicknesses I end up with.

Well I just checked them.  The back has spots in the bouts at 1.8mm. the edges are about 2.5mm.  The thick point, just above the lower corner is about 5mm.   The belly is about 3.5 around the edges, 2-2.5 at the top, and 3 in the lower, and 3+ in the middle.  The wings are crazy thick still.

Now I have to do the final modeling, and rough tuning before gluing it up.20200323_111747.thumb.jpeg.0101ffcdd3ca68448d4be77a1bf74fe8.jpeg

Yes, I will need to add a little wood on the treble side c bout.  I roughed it in wider than the ribs are there.  It ended up about 200mm, 160mm, and 100mm for the bouts.  Nice ratios, so that part is cool.

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The cedar has a band about 15 mm wide with 10 grain lines.  The rest is probably double that.  Trees cut down around it?  

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I worked on the f holes yesterday.  They are different on each side.  The back is two toned, the sides are brown and yellow, and the arches are offset to the treble side.  

Why wouldn't they be different?

It is 66 grams now.  The top two tap tones stayed the same, but the low one dropped from F# to low E.  I"ll get the linings cut back, and the neck set next.  I think I'll make a dummy fingerboard to set the elevation. 

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  • 2 months later...

I see that spell check changed dummy to yummy on the last post. Thanks guys.

I did use a wedge shaped to the fingerboard angle and thickness to set the neck.  I also had a strip of wood, pointed on the end, and marked at the stop length to set the projection.  It worked great.  It's all glued together; and I realized that I don't have and purfling.  I don't have strings for it, or the baroque guitar, so I have to buy some things.  I looked up nylon strings for the guitar, but they seem to have 1 or two wound strings.  I don't want wound strings on it; they shouldn't be needed.

The guitar is ready to glue together.  I haven't picked out fingerboard stock yet.  I thought of putting a single dark binding around it.  1 mm X 3 mm, just to cover the end grain and the seam. I should have something that I can make that, and the fingerboard out of.  

The back is just flat.  It is thinned towards the edges, but it has no bracing at all.  The original belly had two transverse braces, but the Eastern, or Atlantic Red Cedar from a 100 year old barn a friend tore down has a very weak E modulus, ERC is listed at .88!  So I decided to bolster the longitudinal strength with double X braces, and forgo the transverse bars.  

My wife claims that I don't do anything the normal way.

So here it is ready to start gluing the neck and back:

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My blog post this morning had an old Motown song. I found a cover that is VERY GOOD.

People Get Ready (Live) - Curtis Mayfield (Sara Niemietz, W.G. Snuffy Walden, Jonathan Richards)

https://youtu.be/vaspHfblJ5E

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well the barn wood top is scrapped.  I filled the dark lines with wood patches, and then it started splitting where there were no dark lines.  A thin wedge off a wedge of Bear Claw Sitka cut into three pieces; the outside has worm holes; is going to work just fine.  I have the rosette in it now, and I'm just going to use two harmonic bars like the original.  I have no bracing at all on the back, and very small linings.  It shouldn't be long before it is all glued up, and ready for binding.

I noticed that the Aquilla set of strings has a wound low A.   That sounds like a bad idea.  Why would they do such a thing?  Other really cheap sets do too.  They are hard enough to find.  I guess that Gamut will be the choice.  At least they are a small, somewhat local company.  He does offer a set of mixed fret gut too.  I need to make more to spread the cost!  

I see that he says the thickest fret is at the top, and they get smaller.  I was figuring it out, and it seemed just the opposite.  I saw a video talking about flamenco guitars, and they said the strings are higher at the body, and lower at the nut, and low at the bridge.  I thought, "Cool, I did something right."  I'll know more when the belly is glued on.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I've been working on getting the violin and guitar ready for varnish.  The guitar is easier.  I want to get a seal coat on it before I glue on the mustache.  It is not the usual frilly thing.  By now you know I'm not one for doing things the usual way.

Yesterday the Bible verses started disappearing from my posts. First the newest ones, then the older ones.  All 3100+ They were still there online.  Today they are gone online as well.  Don't you LOVE it when you are censored, and they don't even tell you?  How nice.  My writing is still there, but the verses are all gone.  The title is there, and the verse numbers, but nothing else.  Some have a line or two spared.  

Yes, I am NOT politically correct. But don't we have the freedom of speech? 

EDIT :

AHHH.  All but two of the posts have been fixed.  Someone must have been playing around.

 

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Edited by Ken_N
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Thanks Jim,

I still need to order strings and fret gut too.  That is by FAR the most expensive part of the project.  I've never even spent $200 on a piece of wood!  But I do want to find a new back and sides for a cello, so we'll see about that.

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1 hour ago, Ken_N said:

Thanks Jim,

I still need to order strings and fret gut too.  That is by FAR the most expensive part of the project.  I've never even spent $200 on a piece of wood!  But I do want to find a new back and sides for a cello, so we'll see about that.

That's the only thing that's been keeping me from making a cello for myself. So expensive. 

Nice guitar, though. I'd like to hear an audio sample when it's done. 

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34 minutes ago, Nick Allen said:

That's the only thing that's been keeping me from making a cello for myself. So expensive. 

Nice guitar, though. I'd like to hear an audio sample when it's done. 

Yup, I had to borrow from peter to pay paul...I sold violin wood to pay for my cello wood.  Tools are another story.  I buy the next cello specific tool as I'm getting ready to reach for it. When I'm all done I'll either have liked the experience and will plan for another, or have a tool sale. :)

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2 minutes ago, Jim Bress said:

Yup, I had to borrow from peter to pay paul...I sold violin wood to pay for my cello wood.  Tools are another story.  I buy the next cello specific tool as I'm getting ready to reach for it. When I'm all done I'll either have liked the experience and will plan for another, or have a tool sale. :)

There really aren't that many cello-specific tools. Most of the tools to make a violin are handy to craft a cello. I think the only ones that would be necessary would be the clamps for closing the box, which you can make diy the reamers and peg shapers, the latter you could jimmy together with a plane blade, and perhaps the corner block gouge, which could be simulated with normal gouges and a rasp or something. 

The f holes could be cut the hard way with just a drill bit and a knife.

Hogging the back to rough dimensions was a total pain in the ass, though. 

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42 minutes ago, Nick Allen said:

There really aren't that many cello-specific tools. Most of the tools to make a violin are handy to craft a cello. I think the only ones that would be necessary would be the clamps for closing the box, which you can make diy the reamers and peg shapers, the latter you could jimmy together with a plane blade, and perhaps the corner block gouge, which could be simulated with normal gouges and a rasp or something. 

The f holes could be cut the hard way with just a drill bit and a knife.

Hogging the back to rough dimensions was a total pain in the ass, though. 

Time vs. money...I've been averaging half work days (12 hours) since the new year.  Heck yesterday I didn't get off until today. :huh:  So, somethings I've purchased, like a tooth blade for ribs that I've made due without for violin but needed for cello ribs.  I also forked out the cash for a larger in-cannel gouge for blocks.  I didn't "need" it, but I wanted it and I'm happy I bought it.  Name brand, so if I don't think I'll ever use it again I'm confident I can flip it and get most of my money back.  Big money, is still down the road a bit because I'm slow.  Closing clamps, reamers, fittings etc.

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Thanks about the binding.  I used my homemade purfling cutters that actually cut, not just mark.  The long one is set up there for the binding width, and the purfling depth.  I like the screwed on cutter better, but the sliding adjustment is more flexible than shims.   The blade just falls out sometimes!  

It has a 540 scale, so it SHOULD  work in G.  Using the calculator on Gamut strings, a medium set should give  4.5/3.4/3.4/3.0/3.0 kgs per string. So about 75 pounds total. I have a plan for a Voboam guitar in E with a 635 scale, and it comes out to  4.5/3.4/3.3/2.9/2.9 with mediums.  So it seems that it will work fine in G at A 440.  

It has 10 frets.  That seemed to be standard for a while, then 11, then 12.  I have a plan for one that is only 9.  

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  • 1 month later...

I put have the strings on the guitar, and up to pitch; they are still stretching.  When I did it on Thursday, the bridge broke off.  Nice clean break, no wood.  It is a tiny bridge.  I used thin 195 high clarity.  Re-glued with 315.    Worked.

I need to figure out fret diameters that will work, and order some string.  I switched the tuners up on the first and last pairs so the strings aren't rubbing so much.  Seems better to me.

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