pouncycat Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 I'm needing some help from the Maestronet gurus. I am making chinrests and need help with finishing them. They are walnut, as it is easily available and inexpensive, looks somewhat like rosewood, and is dense enough to not really dampen the sound, and am finishing them with beeswax and turpentine. For some people, though, the beeswax wears off quickly. I just found a superglue solution on another thread on here. Any suggestions at all would be most helpful and deeply appreciated. Thank you so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rue Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 I can't help with your question...but I would enjoy seeing a photo of them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 I make mine in cherry and never add finish. In the past I made one or two of maple, stained it and shellacked (if I remember correctly) to cover the stain. But that was a long time ago. I would expect that walnut would do well without finish also, but I've never used it for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Yacey Posted September 20, 2014 Report Share Posted September 20, 2014 Bee wax burnished into the wood and polished. It's not supposed to leave a finish on the wood surface, but rather to seal the wood pores. As an alternative to burnishing it in, you could apply melted bee wax with a brush and polish away the excess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davide Sora Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 What about a very thin coat of good linseed oil? I use it when I modify the ebony fittings and it seems to work fine, applied with a rag just "soiled" with oil. But I do not know if it also works with wood more porous. davide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiddleDoug Posted September 22, 2014 Report Share Posted September 22, 2014 Try using Minwax Wood Hardener. It's basically a solution of plastic in solvent. It will penetrate the wood, and leave the plastic within the wood structure. I've used it on non-ebony fingerboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeyerFittings Posted September 23, 2014 Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 You emailed me to ask this question but I was at the VSA in Indy and don't have one of those phones with three rooms and a bath, so I didn't get it till the end of the week. I don't make them anymore but I thought I'd ask Mr. Clemente of B+G fittings what they used for you. Unfortunately I missed him before he left the hotel. I would ask one of the folks who make lot's of them commercially for advise. If I were using walnut, I would seal the pores with something appropriate, sand off the excess after it dried, and use Minwax Antique Oil which dries overnight this time of year and put as many coats on as you feel is right. I don't know if walnut stains the chin but some varmint is pooping it on our paving stones out back and it is staining them alright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pouncycat Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2014 Hello, All, Thanks so much for your thoughtful replies. You have brought many excellent ideas and I will enjoy trying them out. Thanks again, and your contributions are deeply appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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