Addie Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 So, I’m using someone else’s neck and scroll templates... But there’s a slight problem: a disagreement between the outline/peg hole template, and the pegbox profile template. Long story short: there’s not much clearance between the neck-end of the pegbox and the G peg. What should I do? Change the angle, borrow a few mm from the nut and root, or... and yes, I already trimmed the neck root to length. HELP! thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janito Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 Move the nut back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addie Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 My own petard, because I love to make and distribute patterns... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
duane88 Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 plug the holes and re-drill them. it will be an antiqued instrument... this is why I drill the peg holes after varnishing, or at least you could consider drilling tiny pilot holes instead of larger ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Berl Mendenhall Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Addie, I think duane88 is right, I really don't think you have any other choice. If you move the nut back it will not line up with the chin. The G peg hole looks pretty close from the picture. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rue Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Move the nut back. Which nut? ***runs and hides*** Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janito Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Which nut? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Michael_Molnar Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I would not move the nut. If those are 1/4" holes, it could work. Just ream the G hole to the smallest peg size possible. At worst you may have to compromise the pegbox/nut taper, but I do not think so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Violadamore Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 plug the holes and re-drill them. it will be an antiqued instrument... . "It's the only way to be sure............" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stephen Faulk Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 see posts 75 & 76 :D http://www.maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/330503-baroque-vs-classical-aesthetics/page-4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jacobsaunders Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 What should I do? Change the angle, borrow a few mm from the nut and root, or... and yes, I already trimmed the neck root to length. HELP! thanks! Chuck it away, and start again with a new piece of wood Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addie Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Chuck it away, and start again with a new piece of wood That's the logical conclusion I'm trying to ignore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Cotterill Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I agree with Jacob, start again. It doesn't take long to get to this stage again, and when it's finished you'll be glad you didn't waste time fixing this one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janito Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Two points: > For the wood quality shown in the photo I would not waste time bushing the holes. > The precise relationship of the nut to the chin may be less of a requirement for some types of players. One conclusion: > Move nut or chuck out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Craig Tucker Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Yes Addie Jacob has the correct answer from my point of view also. I have many neck pieces of wood sitting around waiting, in my outside shop to choose from, so to me it doesn't matter. If you don't have some blanks hanging around, and have to re-order one and then wait for it to arrive, I would completely understand that you might plug and re drill the holes and just continue on. But the fact of the matter is that, for me, the carving of the scroll is where the real work starts, so, I've got to say that from this point, where just the outline has been accomplished - well, I'd simply put this bad boy aside, and start over again. No question about it. The important thing to me, would be to find out why the error in the pattern was made in the first place, redraw it correctly, and prevent doing it again in the future. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Michael_Molnar Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Yes, if starting over is an option, do so. Tell you what. Put this aside and start a new one. When you have nothing better to do, you can pull it out and give it a shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wolfjk Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I think it is the wrong choice of wood for a neck and scroll. There are specks of stain in the wood, apart from that, the growthrings and grain direction is slightly out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Hargrave Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Chuck it away, and start again with a new piece of wood Michael may be right, it may works as he suggests, but Jacob suggestion is probably better. When you have plugged the hole and re-drilled it, only to find that it is out of sync with the other 3 holes, you will probably wish that you had just bitten down hard on the bullet. I once talked about quality control on this site. Sometimes these decisions are very difficult, but in the long term they are usually for the best. Anyway it is not as if you have cut the scroll. It won't take you that long to reach this stage again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Hargrave Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Yes, if starting over is an option, do so. Tell you what. Put this aside and start a new one. When you have nothing better to do, you can pull it out and give it a shot. just seen this, also good advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
captainhook Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 When you decide to salvage it, plug both G and E holes, then move them together. My neck/scroll templates all include peg hole locations, but when I'm locating any other holes I place the G and A first, then the E and D. That way they usually fit the box. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janito Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 This one started from similar wood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doug Cotterill Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 My first post to Maestronet was to ask about some black stains in my spruce belly, which Roger and others identified as mould. Even though I was told it wouldn't harm the tone, or be weak, I didn't move on with it. I set it aside and started two other violins, but last Friday started a new belly to replace the one with mould. The new belly is better in every way. I feel pleased that I won't have to hide any mould or other blemishes, and hope nobody notices it, or make excuses if they do like "it won't harm the tone". The old belly won't be wasted, it can be used for varnish practice, sound post patch practice, or anything else I might want to practice. It took me two days to make the belly again, but you could restart your scroll and be at that stage in less than 30 minutes and all your troubles will be forgotten after that. I'd only salvage something made with very special wood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conor Russell Posted May 11, 2014 Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 I have a fair stack of bits and pieces in the workshop that I scrapped for one reason or another, including some nearly finished instruments that I just don't like. I find that if I don't like something I can't sell it. I lose much less to quality control now than I did when I was younger, but still some things wind up set aside. I find it very hard to destroy the rejects - they sit around looking at me, waiting to be finished - and they really clutter up my head. I asked a bowmaker friend what he does with his rejects. If he makes a mistake or doesn't like something, he burns it immediately - No doubt, no regrets, no will I or won't I - a clean healthy positive workshop. Chuck it in the fire Addie. Start again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Evan Smith Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Whether to use it or not,, would depend upon the demeanor of the build,,, that being what it is,,, I place my A peg a full hole + a mm or two closer to the end of the box. I don't like the A peg hole ending up cracking into air. If it is deeper and closer to the end of the box, it will crack into the end wall,, not the top of the side wall. Am I being sufficiently confusing yet? I would have drilled the whole mess closer to the scroll. That's all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addie Posted May 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Two of the holes are bushed, and the volute is halfway there... This is for a less-than-valuable headless violin that’s been sitting around too long. So the wood quality is not an issue, nor are the bushings. Thanks to all, especially Duane and the Captain. And to Roger for the nice PM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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