Titian mould

[DarylG]

8 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

I then plane the rib taper into the ribs on the back surface only. This could be done on the belly side only, or on both sides just before gluing on the neck.

Am I right in thinking that you don't have the linings on the back at this point? When do they go on?

[Davide Sora]

37 minutes ago, DarylG said:

Am I right in thinking that you don't have the linings on the back at this point? When do they go on?

I am convinced that in the Cremonese making method the linings are glued simultaneously on both sides (top and back) before extracting the form, precisely to make the whole more stable and definitive and to be able to carry out the various operations previously indicated with greater accuracy. Toolmarks left on the original forms can be interpreted to confirm this.

[DarylG]

34 minutes ago, Davide Sora said:

I am convinced that in the Cremonese making method the linings are glued simultaneously on both sides (top and back) before extracting the form...

That's what I do too, but I've never done it with a neck glued on. I thought that might be awkward. But also I was wondering if he glued the neck on before putting the back linings on. I was assuming that he planes the taper before gluing in the linings.

[Davide Sora]

36 minutes ago, DarylG said:

That's what I do too, but I've never done it with a neck glued on. I thought that might be awkward. But also I was wondering if he glued the neck on before putting the back linings on. I was assuming that he planes the taper before gluing in the linings.

I don't know how Jackson does it, but I would be a little nervous plane the heel to bring it flush with the block without the linings that reinforce and protect the ribs, which alone would be extremely fragile if hit with the plane.

[JacksonMaberry]

3 hours ago, DarylG said:

Am I right in thinking that you don't have the linings on the back at this point? When do they go on?

I install the linings on both sides before mounting the neck, yes. Then the taper just after that.

[David Beard]

From the fact Strad marked both a full and a teduced height on his moulds, a susoect he cut the top block at the reduced height or nearly the reduced height from the beginning.

However, that makes it harder to all or some of the reduction on thw ba k sides for those who want that.

[JacksonMaberry]

7 minutes ago, David Beard said:

From the fact Strad marked both a full and a teduced height on his moulds, a susoect he cut the top block at the reduced height or nearly the reduced height from the beginning.

However, that makes it harder to all or some of the reduction on thw ba k sides for those who want that.

Not really, you can just have the form with the belly side down on the reference plate when you lay it on riser blocks and glue the blocks to the form. I do this myself 

[David Beard]

Ok. That seems good.

 

While evidence makes it seem fairly clear that Strad eventually settled on tapering from the front.   Other evidence at least suggests that earlier Amati taperng might have been partially or fully from the back.

Certainly the current state of historical examples is a very mixed bag.

[John Harte]

15 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

I can't believe I forgot to address that! Thank you for asking. 

I add the  silicon bronze cut thread screw as soon as I have the rib-neck assembly off the form. I would add the nail at the same point. The casein glue joint is very strong and has no difficulty holding together between when I stick the neck on and when I get the form out. 

Depending on how you shape the heel, you could clamp the neck on, but I find gravity sufficient to hold the neck in place once the glue is applied, and once it's cured it's really quite stable. 

Jackson, thank you for your reply.

Like Davide, if you are willing to share, I would like to hear more about the casein glue you use.

[JacksonMaberry]

More than happy to share! I have struggled to find my post of earlier this year where I laid out my technique. If anyone can help, it would be most appreciated. I will retype it if necessary but would like it if I could locate the original post.

[DarylG]

Try here:

https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/350920-titebond-glue/&do=findComment&comment=961139

 

 

[Sadssd]

On ۱۴۰۱/۵/۲۶ at 12:39, Davide Sora said:

اگر منظورتون فرم های P و PG هستش، من اونها رو تو صفحه اول همین تاپیک گذاشته بودم.

 

 

 

Hello, yes, thank you for sending the templates, do you have a file or photo that fits these templates for the design of the arches?

[Davide Sora]

1 hour ago, DarylG said:

Try here:

https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/350920-titebond-glue/&do=findComment&comment=961139

That's where it was ! Thanks.

I couldn't find it, I would have never looked for it in the Titebond topic.

[JacksonMaberry]

Wow thanks DarylG! Good sleuthing!

That makes a good basic glue, but I do something a bit different for the necks - otherwise the same recipe, but I include a pinch of calcium hydroxide when adding the borax solution. 

[Davide Sora]

1 hour ago, Sadssd said:

 

Hello, yes, thank you for sending the templates, do you have a file or photo that fits these templates for the design of the arches?

I'm sorry, but I don't use arching templates. You can find something about how I do the archings in this article, there are also the drawings of the profiles that I took from the arching after I finished it. But they are related to a violin made on the G form, not the P form.

https://davidesora.altervista.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/Davide-Sora-Archings-article-published-in-MVA-newsletter-2017.pdf

A good starting point for the P form are the Titian archings, you can find them on the poster by The Strad

[John Harte]

14 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Wow thanks DarylG! Good sleuthing!

That makes a good basic glue, but I do something a bit different for the necks - otherwise the same recipe, but I include a pinch of calcium hydroxide when adding the borax solution. 

Thank you Jackson and Daryl.  Much appreciated!