Conor Russell Posted April 3, 2014 Report Posted April 3, 2014 My new bandsaw (thanks Brian!) in angelic white!
kenlew Posted April 4, 2014 Report Posted April 4, 2014 What's up with this??? Am I now a pimp? Is this spam?
Jim Bress Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 Here's my "new" old saw. I picked it up this weekend for $10. If my reading is correct from http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/ this is a no. 8 or no. 9 Henry Disston (pre-sons) from the late 1850's - 1865. It stays straight even after flexing it into a "U" in either direction. I had to test it, but I don't plan on doing that again. The handle is solid, but is cracked at the medallion. One of the split nuts barely has two notches. So I'm thinking I should probably leave the handle alone instead possibly making things worse. It currently has 5 tpi but the toe is badly worn and there is a broken tooth so I will probably cut new teeth. Any of you hand saw users have any opinions on tpi or even a graduated tpi with a higher tpi at the toe? I think I remember Rodger saying he did that with his saw. Anyway, enjoy the pics.
Addie Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 @ 150 years old, tools like that become venerable... But I don't belong to the tool collector crowd--I've always bought tools to use (even if I never get around to using them). So, best of both worlds would be to make it useable but keep the same TPI. That's my 2¢.
Julian Cossmann Cooke Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 I want that dental cabinet on the left. Gerstner has nothing on whoever made that baby.
David Burgess Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 The bearing is bronze I think and the action is amazing. It will contiue rotating for several minutes after you stop pumping... I've always wished I could have the action continue for several minutes after I stopped pumping.
Jim Bress Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 @ 150 years old, tools like that become venerable... But I don't belong to the tool collector crowd--I've always bought tools to use (even if I never get around to using them). So, best of both worlds would be to make it useable but keep the same TPI. That's my 2¢. You might be right, and you're certainly not alone in that opinion. I'm still straddling the fence. If the spring steel had lost it's spring I would restore it and turn it into a wall hanger. Because the steel is still good, I'm going to extend it's working life. Although it will be more like a semi-retired pampered working life while I'm it's caretaker. Cheers, Jim
Addie Posted May 25, 2014 Report Posted May 25, 2014 I've always wished I could have the action continue for several minutes after I stopped pumping. You realize you're posting in the "old tool" topic?
franciscus Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 I've always wished I could have the action continue for several minutes after I stopped pumping. I second that.
joshuabeyer Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 Some pics from a trip to the Sindelar Tool Museum in Michigan...
Conor Russell Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 Here's my "new" old saw. I picked it up this weekend for $10. If my reading is correct from http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/ this is a no. 8 or no. 9 Henry Disston (pre-sons) from the late 1850's - 1865. It stays straight even after flexing it into a "U" in either direction. I had to test it, but I don't plan on doing that again. The handle is solid, but is cracked at the medallion. One of the split nuts barely has two notches. So I'm thinking I should probably leave the handle alone instead possibly making things worse. It currently has 5 tpi but the toe is badly worn and there is a broken tooth so I will probably cut new teeth. Any of you hand saw users have any opinions on tpi or even a graduated tpi with a higher tpi at the toe? I think I remember Rodger saying he did that with his saw. Anyway, enjoy the pics. I have a Lynx rip saw with I think 6 tpi. I have very little set on it, and I have filed a second angle on the back of every tooth, to make the cutting edge a bit less pointed, and stronger. It works very well like this for maple - it cuts very quickly, leaving a very fine kerf and a clean finish. I'll take a picture tomorrow. I have a Disston too with an ordinary tooth, but it doesn't work quite so well.
David Burgess Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 You realize you're posting in the "old tool" topic? Nope, I'm posting in the "beautiful old tool" topic. Some pics from a trip to the Sindelar Tool Museum in Michigan... What is it about Michigan?
Jim Bress Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 I have a Lynx rip saw with I think 6 tpi. I have very little set on it, and I have filed a second angle on the back of every tooth, to make the cutting edge a bit less pointed, and stronger. It works very well like this for maple - it cuts very quickly, leaving a very fine kerf and a clean finish. I'll take a picture tomorrow. I have a Disston too with an ordinary tooth, but it doesn't work quite so well. Thanks Conor, I appreciate it. -Jim
Addie Posted May 26, 2014 Report Posted May 26, 2014 I'm currently cleaning up a Disston No. 7 rip saw, 1878-88, and a No. 12 cross cut, 1898-1917, both with solid handles, and straight blades. Pics when they're done.
Jim Bress Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 I can see where saw (or other old tool) treasure hunting can become an addiction. Fortunately, living on a ship for two years (long ago) has kept me from being a pack rat. I'll try to resist, but I feel the pull.
Conor Russell Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 Here are the Lynx and the Disston. Sorry about the quality of the picture of the Lynx, but you can see the idea. I found this saw in a damp shed, badly rusted. I decided to try to clean it up, and found that the best way to clean off the plate was with a cabinet scraper, followed by oil and steel wool. Now it's my favorite. I left my mechanics tool box out in the rain recently, and found a mass of rust when I opened it up. I bought a bottle of rust remover in the hardware shop. You dilute it with 9 parts water and leave the rusted tools to soak. Then you just wash off the scum that forms, pretty much down to clean metal. It's fantastic. I'm told that plain molasses is every bit as good. I wonder is that the active ingredient in coke? If i'd known about it, I'd probably have used it on the saw.
James M. Jones Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 I'm told that plain molasses is every bit as good. I wonder is that the active ingredient in coke? If i'd known about it, I'd probably have used it on the saw. I never heard of the molasses trick , should make for a sweet tool , I have used white vinegar and tomato juice or sauce for a cleaner, both mild , it's important to give a neutralizing bath of baking soda to stop further action of the acids.
Ratcliffiddles Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 Very beautiful, very rare and very heavy! (From the very short lived "Henley Optical" company in the 1970's)
nertz Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 Lovely....the only time i have ever seen and handled one of those was in David Rubio's workshop.
Jim Bress Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 I decided to try to clean it up, and found that the best way to clean off the plate was with a cabinet scraper, followed by oil and steel wool. Now it's my favorite. I left my mechanics tool box out in the rain recently, and found a mass of rust when I opened it up. I bought a bottle of rust remover in the hardware shop. You dilute it with 9 parts water and leave the rusted tools to soak. Then you just wash off the scum that forms, pretty much down to clean metal. It's fantastic. I'm told that plain molasses is every bit as good. I wonder is that the active ingredient in coke? If i'd known about it, I'd probably have used it on the saw. That's pretty much what I did with rust remover instead of oil. I didn't let it soak (as per instructions) becasuse it was an acid based rust remover and I didn't want to cause any etching. It already has plenty of pitting. My plan was to set up an electrolysis bath to remove the rust but I couldn't do that with out removing the handle. Thanks for the pics.
franciscus Posted May 27, 2014 Report Posted May 27, 2014 I left my mechanics tool box out in the rain recently, and found a mass of rust when I opened it up. I bought a bottle of rust remover in the hardware shop. You dilute it with 9 parts water and leave the rusted tools to soak. Then you just wash off the scum that forms, pretty much down to clean metal. It's fantastic. I'm told that plain molasses is every bit as good. I wonder is that the active ingredient in coke? If i'd known about it, I'd probably have used it on the saw. The active ingredient in rust remover is orthophosphoric acid, the same thing you can find in Coca Cola and yes - you can remove the rust using Coca Cola, but old formulation - I am not sure that the new kinds (i.e. Diet Cola) contains this acid.
Jim Bress Posted September 6, 2019 Report Posted September 6, 2019 Dusting off one of my favorite old threads. There has been a bunch of old tool threads. This is just the first one I found. It reminded me that I haven’t heard from Berl in a while. I hope he’s well. Anyway, I just finished restoring an old Atlas compound table. It has X, Y, and swivel adjustments. I’ll attach it to my drill press and see if it’s mostly helpful or mostly in the way. And no, I will not use it for milling. The retired machinist in me won’t allow for that kind of drill press abuse.
Michael_Molnar Posted September 7, 2019 Report Posted September 7, 2019 On 4/3/2014 at 2:33 PM, Conor Russell said: My new bandsaw (thanks Brian!) in angelic white! Deep Throat.
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