Violin fingerboard related problems

[K123]

Hi there, a few questions:

 

1. How do you achieve a perfect fingerboard/violin neck fit? It seems I always struggle with this. So far I've been using scrapers. Is there an easier/better way? I can never seem to get that 100% perfect fit.

 

2. How do you get rid of scratch marks on a fingerboard? Do you sand it with fine grid sandpaper?

 

3. What do you use to polish the fingerboards?

 

 

Thank you. Hopefully someone can answer these, and maybe someone else can learn from it as well.

[Christopher Jacoby]

1. On a new instrument, a sharp plane on either surface should do it. A large, thick sandpaper on block (sandpaper plane) is useful to have around, too. On a fiddle that you're replacing the board on, some reflattening may be possible if there is enough material, but chalk fitting the ebony to the neck is a reasonable last-ditch effort.

2. Dress the fingerboard with a plane, scrape or file laterally across it, then use diminishing grits of sandpaper from 250 on down to at least 600, wet, with a radiused block to maintain the shape.

3. Everything you can imagine!

[K123]

Excellent, thank you! Any specific size the plane should be?

[Jerry Lynn]

I like what Chris said, I'll add - with the risk of getting flamed - that I really like having a VERY slight hollow on the ebony.  If everything else is right, it really brings the joint together.  I think there was a pic of this that someone posted on MN a while back, some searching may reveal it.

 

Any good small block plane will do - my Lie Nielsen 103 gets used most often for both the tops and bottoms of boards (bridges too!)

[Oded Kishony]

Jerry, looks like no one has risen to the bait. I'll try another lure.....though they could be too cold and just lurking under the rocks. ;-)

I apply a coat of Minwax wood hardener to the finished upper surface of the fingerboard. Which I then steel wool to reduce the gloss. It greatly extends the life of the board IMHO

Oded

http://www.minwax.com/mobile/wood-finishing-products/maintenance-and-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener?gclid=CPO7pqmp0bsCFQPNOgodaQMAG

[Jeffrey Holmes]

I like what Chris said, I'll add - with the risk of getting flamed - that I really like having a VERY slight hollow on the ebony.  If everything else is right, it really brings the joint together.  I think there was a pic of this that someone posted on MN a while back, some searching may reveal it.

 

Any good small block plane will do - my Lie Nielsen 103 gets used most often for both the tops and bottoms of boards (bridges too!)

 

Um...  I think that might have been me... This one?

 

 

and I leave a slight hollow on the neck surface as well.   

[Jerry Lynn]

That's the one!

I haven't gotten to putting a hollow on the neck yet. Suppose I should try it...

[Jeffrey Holmes]

 

I haven't gotten to putting a hollow on the neck yet. Suppose I should try it...

 

You'll never go back...  

[Jeff White]

I like what Chris said, I'll add - with the risk of getting flamed        

Chicken!!           (as far as hollowing)that's the way I was taught too.  Tends to help with the "glue..dro..planing" too. Helps make the joint look nice.