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MikeC

MikeC's bench

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yes I may just try to get some glue in there and not clamp it.  In the photo it looks like a huge gap but that's a close up photo so reality is it's not all that big.  I don't want it to open up more though.   

So after discussing my gouge I decided to get another one off Ebay.   here's a pic.   It's a foot long and an inch wide and looks like good steel.  I should be able to get a good edge on it.  

 

gouge4.jpg

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I fear that you are becoming hopelessly entangled with the drive to build little boxes with strings, it's subtle how it slowly takes over, and becomes more and more pleasurable with each curling chip, each varnish drip, every re-varnish re-strip.

Go in peace brother and buy more wood and tools, ,,,and fingerboards.

Evan Sympathetic, sometimes just pathetic, but understanding none the less.

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Before you can build a violin you first have to build some tools.  I've started carving the cradle... still debating on whether to put rockers under it...  and I had to keep the shop door closed.  the cat keeps trying to get in....    ok here's a very short video showing the use of a hold fast and a picture of the cradle under construction.  While doing this I realized there is a remarkable similarity between carving arches and flintknapping arrow heads.  If you've ever done both you'll realize what I mean. 

 

cradle small.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

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After a long hiatus I'm making sawdust again.   The ribs where easy,  more so than I expected.  Plate carving on the other hand I find difficult so I am practicing on cheap poplar wood from the local home improvment store.  After looking at CT scans I see what may be clues that may relate to original concepts in arching and thicknessing but my skill level isn't there yet.    I made a copy of the cradle that may or may not have been Strad's.     It works ok but could be more stable.

 

   

plate1.jpg

plate2.jpg

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Well for fun,  I decided to try the inside first method.   I wonder of the cradle really was used by Strad, if so then he would have had to do some initial arching on the outside first otherwise it rocks and is unstable in the cradle while working on the inside.   I find it hard to use a chain so I made a rigid inside template.  I chalk the edge of it so I can see where it's touching.  

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Since I'm not very good at making violin plates, I decided to make a mallet instead...   Oak head,  curly maple handle.  I'm going to put the cremonese ground on it and see how it holds up to wear.   I like using antique hand tools.  In the background that's a circa 1901 miter box.

 

hammer and punch .jpg

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Here's my once a year update.   I like to make sawdust and sometimes the pieces that are leftover look like something.  In this case the remains look remarkably like a 18th century band saw.    Been having a little fun with it today.    I cheated and used a modern blade.  Also para cord but at least I used the Strad tailpiece knot to join the two ends.  

 

Sawdust.jpg

saw.jpg

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Finally getting around to joining some plates.  I have a Record #6  and spent some time putting a hair shaving razor edge on it.  What a huge difference that sharpness makes.   It goes through spruce or maple like a hot knife through butter.    If I'm reading the mic right that's two thousanths and could easily adjust it to go thinner than that.  

 

joining plates.jpg

thin shaving.jpg

micrometer.jpg

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Well I'm still slow but making progress,  just have to remember to draw the button on before I start cutting.  I don't want to practice button grafts.  After gluing the center seam the surface was not perfectly flat.  I glued wedges so it would lay flat on the bench while planing it.  

 

 

fiddle_back.png.c4911efa3f74d0db2597dcd357248b3f.png

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36 minutes ago, MikeC said:

Well I'm still slow but making progress,  just have to remember to draw the button on before I start cutting.  I don't want to practice button grafts.  After gluing the center seam the surface was not perfectly flat.  I glued wedges so it would lay flat on the bench while planing it.  

 

 

fiddle_back.png.c4911efa3f74d0db2597dcd357248b3f.png

Watch for tear out around the perimeter since this will be the final glue surface for the garland. You may want to find a piece of plate glass and attach some sandpaper to it for the final leveling.  If you cut around the outline there will be less material you will have to level. Your joint looks good...

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I don't know how well this image will show up.   I was trying to decide on the design of the corners.  Did you know that if you bisect the corners the lines will cross at approximately the widest part of the bouts.  So for the upper bout corners I drew a line from the corner to the center of the widest part of the lower bout.  For the lower bout corners I chose a point half way between the widest point of the upper bout and where the neck connects.  Where these lines cross is approximately at the narrowest part of the C bout.    it may be hard to see the lines in this picture.   

For the upper and lower pins I used an old metal coathanger. Do they even make those anymore?   The diameter may be a little big but its ok I guess.

 

corner geometry.JPG

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