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A new shed.  Hopefully there will be some work space in it if it doesn't get too filled with general storage.  Maybe now I can actually build something.  Either that or it's a good doghouse for when I get in trouble. 




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it's 10 by 18.  Not enough light no,  but I'm going to install another window or two so that should brighten it up some.   Plans are the loft will be for storage but the bottom part I get for a work space.  :)  and there are railings on the deck now and just enough room for me to put a chair for some sit down whittlin

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I just got back from a week long vacation with no internet so now I'm getting caught up.  Rue  yes it was pre-built.  I had to take down a large section of fence and then spent the next day building a gate big enough to drive my camper through it.  The porch now has railings on it.   I agree it needs at least one more window and hopefully get some electricity in it also.


NT,  I haven't tried plaster.  I remember reading about it in Roger's thread.   Does it have any optical properties or it's just used as a pore filler / sealer?

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  • 6 months later...

Shall we fit a bridge?    Ok so I'm a clueless noob but here goes.    This is my dad's old fiddle, a German Strad copy.  I really like the varnish on it.  Does anyone know what kind of varnish these old German fiddles had?   It's brown but more complex than just plain brown.    Any way, fitting the bridge.  I don't really know what I'm doing but I'll give it a shot.  


Here's the bridge. 



Initial marking of the feet using homemade carbon paper.  Plain paper under the other foot to keep the bridge even so it doesn't tilt at a slight angle.  This picture makes the varnish look a lot darker than it really is. 




My preferred weapon of choice.  The curved end of the blade, because it only contacts the wood in a small area,  allows very precise cutting and scraping of marked areas on the foot as opposed to the straight edge of an exacto which goes all the way across the foot.




That's enough for now.   

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More cutting and fitting. 

First trimmed the little pointy bits so they don't chip off while planeing.  I've seen a jig for holding a bridge while planeing but I pull it across the plane holding it by hand.   Who needs skin any way...     


Here is the back side planed.


Next,  mark a little over 4mm to be planed from the front. 




Front side planed down so the feet are 4.4mm  maybe not exactly but close enough. 




fitting the feet and getting close to a good fit. 



That's all for now. 


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You could be right about the plane blade.  The photo is small so hard to see, so I'll take a close up and enlarge it.  Maybe the sole needs to be flattened and trued up some? 


The plane has Baley stamped on it but the top piece that locks the blade in place is Stanley.



In this close up of the blade it's obvious that it is in bad need of a good sharpening so I'll do that today.




Here's a 42mm radius circle on heavy card stock (resume paper)  which I'll cut out and use as a template for the top curve of the bridge. 



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Height should be about right now.  I strung it up and got the G close to 5.5 and the E close to 3.5.  Hopefully no one will cringe too much at my attempt at a somewhat non traditional decorative carving.  I would probably do it differently next time but wanted to try it this way.  It has a slight relief on the back side and convex contour on the front side.    There still remains some tweaking to do including notching for the strings.  And where do I get parchment for the E string?  


Front and Back





Decorative sides just for fun.




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  • 2 weeks later...

I'll post here a picture and short video prompted by the thread on dichromatic finish.   Visible here is the shift from light to dark (which is not the same thing as a color shift) which is characteristic of curly maple but also there is some color shift from red-ish to yellow-ish tones or seems to be in one test section.  








I decided to make another bridge tonight.  Messed up in a few places but the next one will be better...



Attempting closeup photography.   Holding a magnifying lens in front of an iphone camera didn't work very well. 



I was trying to get a photo that would show how the vertical and horizontal wood fibers crisscross like a tartan plaid.


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  • 1 year later...

There's another thread on shellac ground so I dug up these old videos of some ground experiments I did




The same sample from a previous post but this one looks like more natural lighting.



and finally...  This one is a little more monochromatic but has something going for it.  




Now if I could just build something to put it on!   





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  • 1 month later...

I was thinking of starting a new thread and let this one fade away but I may as well keep posting here.   So I'm going to do a build.   Progress will be slow though.  

Here's the start of it.   So I made a copy of Strad's PG form.   But I may be using templates from the Titian so should I make a P form for that?   

on this PG form I made the upper bout corner block cutouts slightly too big so I'm gluing in some shims to get them back to the correct size.   I could probably just make adjustments in the corner blocks but may as well get the form right.   

It's a pain cutting this out with a coping saw in a sauna.   :D    

And now I know why those half holes are in the cutout for the neck block and tail block,  



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  • 3 weeks later...

On the tail block where the end pin attaches.  How big an issue is it if the grain lines are parallel to the ribs instead of at a right angle to the ribs?   I have plenty of wood to make another block but do I need to?   

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1 hour ago, MikeC said:

On the tail block where the end pin attaches.  How big an issue is it if the grain lines are parallel to the ribs instead of at a right angle to the ribs?   I have plenty of wood to make another block but do I need to?   

You can find plenty examples of end blocks with the grain running parallel to the ribs by some very good makers. I can see the logic having the grain lines running out to the points on the corner blocks. I'm sure you will have others chime in about this and I'm also interested in the answer.

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I'm thinking it would be stronger in that orientation less prone to split but there are some old threads on the subject with differing opinions.  I'll do the neck and corner blocks as they should be.   The tail block was just me not paying attention to the grain.  



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2 hours ago, MikeC said:

Davide Sora shows the tail block grain at an angle. 



Interesting why the top block grain lines are straight and the tail block slant. Thanks. Haven't seen this video before from Davide. I definitely trust him.

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