tango Posted July 22, 2014 Report Posted July 22, 2014 Peter You make me think about the cooking time. I could test your way first but also, then, the slow cooking becouse all Roger´s articles have a simple way of doing things, with few elements and low probability of error. That goes with my personality. Wich method do you use wash oil? Thanks for sharing Tango
Peter K-G Posted July 23, 2014 Author Report Posted July 23, 2014 Peter You make me think about the cooking time. I could test your way first but also, then, the slow cooking becouse all Roger´s articles have a simple way of doing things, with few elements and low probability of error. That goes with my personality. Wich method do you use wash oil? Thanks for sharing Tango Tango I don't wash the linseed oil. I found out by testing different types of linseed oil that Finnish cold pressed linseed oil used in paints, is ready to use as is. But I pre boil it for 4,5 hours in 95 °C (makes it siccative, the varnish dries without sun in 3-5 days). I also lime it before mixing it with colophony. I too cook the colophony in low temperture but not for a long time as Roger do (long cooking is only for dark color) http://www.maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/330521-cooking-colophony-down-for-color-low-and-slow/?view=findpost&p=630015 http://www.thestradsound.com/home/varnish updated recipe with Mastic http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/varnishcooking1372014 Peter
tango Posted July 24, 2014 Report Posted July 24, 2014 Thanks Peter for answer , you are very gentle Tango
Peter K-G Posted July 24, 2014 Author Report Posted July 24, 2014 Oh sorry, wasn't ment as a respond to your post, just posting while out with my boat and the least on my mind is my bench - well maybe a little bit, otherwise i wouldn't post, would I
tango Posted July 25, 2014 Report Posted July 25, 2014 Ha ha, I see you turn to starboard to take the picture.
Húslař Posted July 28, 2014 Report Posted July 28, 2014 Peter, how strong is Your UV Cabinet (have You black-lights tubes or something stronger). I have 6 blacklight tubes 18Watt-is it good for making Your ground?
Peter K-G Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Posted July 28, 2014 Peter, how strong is Your UV Cabinet (have You black-lights tubes or something stronger). I have 6 blacklight tubes 18Watt-is it good for making Your ground? Yes, that would be the same strength that I use. Mine are not blacklight (Philips Actinic BL 18 W), but blacklight tubes should produce pretty much the same amount of UV.
Peter K-G Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Posted July 30, 2014 Replacing poor finger board http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/replacingpoorfingerboard Ordered this: http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/390011/Fingerboard-African-Ebony-Master-Quality-Violin-44.htm Hope it's of good quality
Patrick KREIT Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 Excellant resolution ! www.kreitpatrick.com
Peter K-G Posted August 5, 2014 Author Report Posted August 5, 2014 Polished and ready for setup as soon as I get a new fingerboard http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/polishing
Fjodor Posted August 13, 2014 Report Posted August 13, 2014 Looks good! What do you use for polishing?
Peter K-G Posted August 13, 2014 Author Report Posted August 13, 2014 Linseed oil and vienna chalk, but I can never decide if it was better unpolished because that's beautiful too Before polishing I also used linseed oil and a little alcohol (Sinol) to rub out som unevenness. Slowly I'm getting a grip on this varnishing thing, I think. Slightly too thick for my taste still, the next one will be perfect
Patrick KREIT Posted August 13, 2014 Report Posted August 13, 2014 Peter After polishing the varnish with oil and calcium carbonate, you can restore some sheen with Super Niko (available in stores) or with “popote” (for which I provided the recipe on February 7, 2013 in MN post number 388 of the thread “What’s on your bench? (mk6)”). This yields a beautiful gloss that is not the brilliant shine of newly applied varnish. Now that you have mastered varnish and pigments, you should be able do it in 3 coats. www.kreitpatrick.com
Peter K-G Posted August 17, 2014 Author Report Posted August 17, 2014 Yes I have to, because that will be the Soil project! Need to finish this one first http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/firstimpressionofmarch2014 Fjodor, and LK if you read. This is the first one with Finnish top wood
Peter K-G Posted August 18, 2014 Author Report Posted August 18, 2014 Quick Spectrum analysis: https://b36d28dc-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/peterkgviolins/home/modal-goal---strad-average/March2014FFT_200-7000.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7crkHULE9MzcmayQNsxLkVxsIVJl2s6MxO_JCvfGTzjflDmzjJrtDFtOMSthLmsvplkk9cbEAlGT32YpQlRanT-Wh5Dp1hFvvhlfw0JrR4xU8FJMrsJ7_gSDzESO45z-6zhUPdpuAiZQhZHcKuqlWYtkUTSnQ9bZlObnt5XD_ECnGNVZnTjcwZIQl6hrkxKTN4QpcJFgEOY4H-qwT5AZPS6Ivug3ojHehvkkF4PfBoXtqsi_EEt0qbfTAVuwnwZKcSPA8qQAm-bNaZ6dNH1zueLaolfnyw%3D%3D&attredirects=0 A1 and B1- are very close. The violin is really easy to play and surprisingly clean and pure although it has only been played a couple of hours. It's much better than I expected! On to the next one
Patrick KREIT Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 -A1 and B1- can be identical, without detriment to the violin’s sound. -What matters is not the wood’s origin, but its properties: celerity, elasticity, and capacity for water absorption. -In view of the delta between modes B1- and B1+, the strings need to be relatively firm, so that they withstand strong pressure from the bow without saturating (il Cannone). The sound can only be better and better when your plate tuning is successful the first time around, without having to regraduate the thicknesses. www.kreitpatrick.com
Fjodor Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 Yes I have to, because that will be the Soil project! Need to finish this one first http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/firstimpressionofmarch2014 Fjodor, and LK if you read. This is the first one with Finnish top wood Congratulations on the newly finished violin. It's good to know that the spruce is alright (having bought a lot It would be interesting to try the violin. How does it compare to the previous one? I thought that one was very good, very even and responsive all over as well, even though it was "fresh".
Peter K-G Posted August 19, 2014 Author Report Posted August 19, 2014 Yes the wood is magnificent. The only problem I had in the start was that it was too wet. (that should not be a problem anymore, I have measured the other tops). After I had artificially seasoned it in UV I had no problem with it. This one was also the least good from my pile. You can also see from images that it is not perfectly straight cut. I would say that the violin has many characteristics like the previous one but more "silvery" on the high end, with a lovely darkish timbre on the low end, so it has more contrast between G and E strings. It's also more pure and easier to play. B1+ mode is even higher in DB level which surprises me a little. The top is almost 10 g heavier (75+ g) and the back is 5 g heavier. The bass bar is also heavier and higher (11,7 mm, compared to 10,3 mm prev.). The top graduation distribution is relatively thicker in the middle and thinner in upper and lower regions (1,85 - 2,9). The previous one had wood of 0,37 SG this one 0,47 SG (at 6% MC). Speed of sound about the same. The back plate had really low speed of sound compared to the prev. one. It likes to be played with the bow "glued" to the strings and slowly bowing. Not the slightest raspy on any strings in higher positions (as far as I can reach). LK is planning a visit to show his last two violins and to deliver a re-haired bow to my father in law. Maybe you could join him and pay a visit and bring one of your violins too, that would be nice
Fjodor Posted August 19, 2014 Report Posted August 19, 2014 Sounds like it is a success then! I was also pleasantly surprised with my latest that had a high density top. Kombä jään me lk om ja har passlit tå, å kan ta me en fiol så får vi spela na!
Peter K-G Posted August 20, 2014 Author Report Posted August 20, 2014 Followed Curious1's way. Ipad seems to be the best way to do amateur recordings in a smaller room (3,5 x 4 m) March2014_A.mp3 In reality the lower notes are not that muffled and it's sound is sweeter. Spectrum capture (4096) of the recording.
Patrick KREIT Posted August 20, 2014 Report Posted August 20, 2014 Peter Do you have the latest version of AUDACITY that enables analysis of the spectrum up to 65536? The harmonics within the sounding box are quite audible when you play high notes. The low notes are consistant. Good work! www.kreitpatrick.com
Peter K-G Posted August 21, 2014 Author Report Posted August 21, 2014 ............... yes now I have it not that it matters, but here is the 65536 spectrum (easier to find modes, thanks!)
Peter K-G Posted August 31, 2014 Author Report Posted August 31, 2014 Time to move on to the next porject - The Soil which is my favourite Strad. http://www.thestradsound.com/ongoing/startingthesoilproject
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