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ballpark cost of fitting new pegs?


hungrycanine

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Jeffrey, the question being raised is not whether Hill compound is useable(I'm sure it is) but rather is it intelligent or even possible to use nothing else but Hill compound, or is it wise to have a second or third compound to use sparingly to increase or decrease the slipperyness of the peg fit that the Hill compound gives.....

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Jeffrey, the question being raised is not whether Hill compound is useable(I'm sure it is) but rather is it intelligent or even possible to use nothing else but Hill compound, or is it wise to have a second or third compound to use sparingly to increase or decrease the slipperyness of the peg fit that the Hill compound gives.....

 

Hi Lyndon; Hill peg compound does not strike me as slippery, but I guess we each need to rely on our own experiences.

 

I've tried other things, but seem to return to the lipstick... so I think I have an open mind for alternatives presented by others... especially those who I respect, but don't feel compelled to seek out those alternatives when I'm getting fine, recreate-able results with the procedure and materials I'm using.

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The opposite of end grain would be side grain ....

As Jacob states, differential wood movement will cause peg holes to become oval at times of extreme dryness or extreme humidity. But pegs also become marginally oval if they shrink or expand from their round state, since shrinkage along the slab is double that of shrinkage on the quarter. A well made peg will necessarily contain equal amounts of each!

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On a newer violin, as the maple of the pegbox dries out, the holes will become oval just like new pegs tend to, on a hundred year old violin, this drying has largely taken its course and I wouldn't expect the pegholes to tend towards oval, like new pegs can.

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You didn't answer my question, Jeffrey, which is are you recommending using Hill compound alone, or with judicious use of other substances like chalk in addition, when needed??

 

I guess I did't answer...  Not sure I have one.  Further complicated, I suppose, if I were acting as a battlefield medic... as my answer would be different that if we were discussing an instrument going through the shop.

 

As I mentioned, I think I'm open minded, but I don't personally feel I have a recommendation or offers for alternatives.  We're speaking of new installations here, as far as I can tell, and if the pegs fit well, you really don't need much of anything.

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That's not an answer, Jeffrey, how about this, in the course of your work with pegs, old and new, do you ever use any substances(which can remain unamed if you so wish) in addition to Hill compound, or do you feel that Hill compound alone solves all the problems that arise once the pegs are fitting perfectly?

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That's not an answer, Jeffrey, how about this, in the course of your work with pegs, old and new, do you ever use any substances(which can remain unamed if you so wish) in addition to Hill compound, or do you feel that Hill compound alone solves all the problems that arise once the pegs are fitting perfectly?

 

Gosh Lyndon... I thought it was kind of an answer...   :) ...but the answer to your new question is "rarely do I personally use other compounds or additives".  No absolutes, however.

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A large proportion of people who come with “peg problems” do so because they havn’t threaded the string onto the pegs properly. In the winter here it can easily get to -20°C outside, as against. +20°C indoors, so that haveing the string sit snugly against the pegbox wall is neccesary.

 

We have similar temperatures where I live.

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David and Jacob might have a point, Southern California is a totally different climate, I checked with my top expert friend(who showed me my first genuine Stradivari) about Hill compound, he said 30 years ago when he worked in England, Hill compound worked just fine out of the tube, without the need for chalk etc, He says he thinks the formula may have changed or maybe its just the different climate, because now he finds Hill compound to be too soft or slippery to use without chalk.

 

It also has a lot to do with what you consider slippery, I consider a peg that turns really easily without much friction to be "slippery" and strive for a peg that requires a sort of maximum amount of friction to turn without becoming too hard to turn for the musician. I do so in the perhaps mistaken belief that a peg that offers more friction to turning is less likely to slip in the long term.

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You could at least tell me what the opposite of end grain is called in English, since I can’t think of the word.

Hi Jacob,

 

Here in the states, we call it "long grain" most of the time.  At least in woodworking circles, that's what I hear (and use myself).

 

Joe

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Hi Jacob,

 

Here in the states, we call it "long grain" most of the time.  At least in woodworking circles, that's what I hear (and use myself).

 

Joe

post-34919-0-42984300-1364820086_thumb.jpg

 

The strict opposite of end grain is side grain - but "long grain" makes sense too, that is until you find yourself trying to describe the opposite of "short grain" ...

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Well, I figure I should reply, since I was the one who started this post! I  now have tonnes of info about slipping pegs that is entirely new to me, and I thank this forum for that. My previous two violins never had an issue with pegs slipping, although I'd heard much about it, so asked. I've kept the newly acquired (and offending) French violin in its case with a humidifier for several days, and the slippage issue has vastly improved! I've no idea where or how  the instrument had been stored previously, but it (and I) are from semi-arid southern Alberta, and it is clear that the violin had not been stored properly. By the way, my previous violins have always had fine tuners on all four strings. This new French one only has a fine-tuner on the E string, so even the basic process of tuning with the pegs is unfamiliar to me. I'll see what happens next, and thanks to these many pages of responses, I'll have some ideas for Plan B if required. 

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