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Spring clamps instead of spool clamps?

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I am looking forward to finishing the plates and try those clamps. Judging by the pics Robert posted, I would never consider trying them without protection on the tips. I would try the 165mm long with a jaw of 50mm (because there are the 210mm long as well). Insulation tape it's quite soft, rubber inside to create a bump, so they stay stable on the edge without getting close to the arching. I suppose you can cushion the pressure according to the amount of rubber you put, so you can decrease or increase the pressure only in those areas that you want.

You're gonna poke your eye out, your gonna poke your eye out! :lol: ...Nah they can work, but they can slip off in a "whoosh" if the arches the feet are sitting on is too steep....So be careful

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You're gonna poke your eye out, your gonna poke your eye out! :lol: ...Nah they can work, but they can slip off in a "whoosh" if the arches the feet are sitting on is too steep....So be careful

Ok :lol:

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Re-spring clamps, I find them very useful for closing the box but only for the end block areas.

I also use them on the end block areas. They are very fast.

This whole thread has got me thinking about the possability of custom jaws on these for special purposes.

The springs would have to be annealed slightly (and or) ground to relieve the pressure in some instances.

I am a clamp nut.

and speed is of the essence.

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custom jaws on these for special purposes.

Yes, you could take the pads off the medium size clamps to make the jaw a bit bigger. I noticed that after using them a few times, they are less strong.

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I like these for clamping the endblocks. The tension is easily adjusted and quick and can be clamped with one hand. I also like that both pads swivel to accomadate for the archings. I glued on leather to the pads.

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I like these for clamping the endblocks. The tension is easily adjusted and quick and can be clamped with one hand. I also like that both pads swivel to accomadate for the archings. I glued on leather to the pads.

Ernie,,,

now YOU are heavy duty !

I bet you've never had an endblock get away from you.

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Hi All - in my garage I have a wooden topped, sheet metal tool-cabinet on wheels (860 x 1170) that was built by a friend of mine. He was an aircraft mechanic and often had to travel to where the plane was "hors-de-combat" - the first thing that was loaded into his "camper" was this work-bench. Almost 30 years back he died in an aircraft accident. I played a small bit in helping wind up his estate. The family asked me if there was anything that I would like for myself. I chose his home-made tool cabinet. Every time I pass it I give "Oliver" a friendly pat (haven't forgotten you my friend). Now I am going to add a rotatable and vertically-adjustable go-bar frame onto the top - specifically for gluing V, Va & VC ribs to sides - also bass bars. He will appreciate that.

Go-bars? Yup - ancient clamping method that pre-dates clamps.

Although back in the late 50's I thought that I had discovered the system all by myself. I was building my first sailing dinghy and the side-decks were formed from 3.2mm ply sheet over shaped deck-ribs. We didn't have enough clamps (or money - so what's new?) - so I ripped up some floorboards (ripsaw and sweat) into long battens. By propping these against the barn rafters I was able to force the ply against the curved deck-ribs. The first side was - mmm - shall we say "a bit fiddly?" - but the second one took almost no time at all. Worked a treat.

For violin-building a huge plus is that it will leave you with total access to the ribs for cleaning off the excess glue.

A quick search on the I-net will make everything clear - here is one...

http://liutaiomottola.com/Tools/Go.htm

and a happy and successful New Year to you all - cheers edi

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