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Rehairing a Bow...


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...Mr. Dorsey...what is the purpose of the peg in the bow tip holder?...

I put the hair in the head first. The purpose of the peg is to prevent the head from being pulled out of the head holder while I comb the hair after putting it in the head. Perhaps the peg would not needed if I were to put the hair in the frog first.

... I don't understand why the rehair jig is a popular product in catalogues...

Rehair jigs are listed in catalogues because the businesses that put out the catalogues want to sell them.

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Addie

I was reading an old post about labels and seen a few of your graphic designs...pretty nice stuff...would you be interested in helping me design a label?

Sorry for going off topic

-Ernie

Well... I usually charge for that, but not much. :)

Basically, you tell me what you want it to say, what look you want to go for, etc., and you wind up with a full page sheet (letter or A4) of labels in pdf format that you can print on a laser printer. If you want an editable file, for serial numbers, “Made for,†etc., it would be a little more.

The graphics and text in the pdf are “no pixel†vector linework.

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An editable pdf FORM. For example, if you want printed serial numbers or the date, or the buyer’s name, you would simply type those into the form field, rather than altering the original document text. Setting up an editable FORM takes time, therefore...

If you want an editable file, for serial numbers, “Made for,†etc., it would be a little more.

Not sure where hell comes into this though?

I read this 3 times, thinking what the hell does he want an 'edible' file for, and more importantly, why should it cost more.

Now, back to rehairs... I hope.

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Ernie, I'll be in the shop Tuesday and get some pics during the week. I'll also check through my box of bows that I bundle together and stick on ebay once in a while. These bows need rehairs and other things, but are just student stuff and with the advent of cheap decent student bows from china, I don't rehair/repair anything like this anymore. Your gonna need a bunch of stuff to rehair. As far as hair, you might consider asking on here if anyone has tried the cheaper chinese hair, and then didn't like it and has it sitting around their shop. This would be perfect for you to learn with as far as getting a feel for things.(and cheap too). I saw some down at the N.A.M.M. show earlier this year for cheap, and didn't look too bad (for learning, don't know about using on custy's bows). jeff

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Here is my jig. It's seen alot of years/rehairs. I use a small piece of metal with a saw slot for a guage, a wood screw put into the front of my bench at rehair time to tie the knots(I use unwaxes dental floss), alchohol lamp and rosin to seal the end of the hair after the knot is tied, a metal comp for the hair (no static). The jig uses thin leather padding to protect the bow, never had issues with it. jeff

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  • 3 years later...

As I have said before on this forum, I think any kind of re-hairing jig that clamps any part of the bow is unnecessarily complicated and may risk damaging the bow. I use separate frog and head holders that I copied from the ones Arnold Bone used. Here they are:

attachicon.giffrog holder 1.JPGattachicon.giffrog holder 2.JPG

attachicon.gifhead holder 1.JPGattachicon.gifhead holder 2.JPG

I use a hair gage that I made many years ago. Similar gages are now commercially available:

https://www.internat...px?ItemCode=T77

Measuring hair with this type of gage is easier than weighing it or stuffing it into a hole or wrapping a marked thread around it.

 

Is it possible you can tell me the measurements of the gauge please? How thick the slit is, and also how many mm's depth each type of hair was. I.e. 6mm deep for a violin etc.

Thanks,

Luke

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