Spirol Bushing Grain


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I make mine from the side that runs parallel to the rings, and so far I haven´t had any problems with stabily.

If you could get your hands on a copy of the Pernambuco Book, there are two fabulous articles there about spiral bushings, one by Chris Germain and the other by The Leonhart Workshop that cover absolutely everything I could think off about spiral bushings.

Instead of a steel mandrel for glueing the shaving, you could make yourself a Teflon mandrel, they are rather good and cheap.

Cheerio!!!

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I've been using paper instead of wood for many spiral bushings. It's worked very well and holds the peg better than wood.

You can use kraft paper, mulberry paper, tyvek (not really paper but very strong and takes hide glue well) Most any strong paper will work well.

Oded

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I prefer delrin to teflon but the process is identical. Buy some rod stock then cut to an appropriate length (apx peg length) and taper it in your peg shaver. Make several in different diameters for larger or smaller holes.

You can even make it from wood and wax the wood so glue does not adhere to it.

You can also make a counter part, a tapered hole that you make with your reamer so that you can 'form' the bushing.

Once it's dry it's very simple to insert into a peg hole with a bit of glue.

Oded

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I've just been using Kraft paper in whatever orientation my template will fit on. Waxed wooden peg for a mandrel, although non-stick plastic would be a good idea if I wanted to take the time to make a couple.

Counterform's a great idea if you like to let your bushings dry thoroughly before you use them. I've just been winding the bushings really tight, letting them dry until they are firm on the outside, and then wedging them tightly into the peg box with the mandrel, more or less using the pegbox wall as a counterform. Having a well-compacted, dry bushing to start with might have some advantages.

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Last one I did I used a mandrel and counter-form to make the bushing. Allowed it to dry thoroughly and then was able to clean it up with the peg shaver. I used flat sawn maple with the shape precut so the shavings off the plane have the correct curve and roll up nicely. Cheers,

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I make mine from the side that runs parallel to the rings, and so far I haven´t had any problems with stabily.

If you could get your hands on a copy of the Pernambuco Book, there are two fabulous articles there about spiral bushings, one by Chris Germain and the other by The Leonhart Workshop that cover absolutely everything I could think off about spiral bushings.

Instead of a steel mandrel for glueing the shaving, you could make yourself a Teflon mandrel, they are rather good and cheap.

Cheerio!!!

Jose,

I have made a couple of spirol bushing mandrels on my 13" lathe from polyethylene (HDPE i think) and they work very well. haven't found an adhesive or finish used on a violin that will bond to them. Teflon would be better at several prices higher. I make them about 8" long to cover a wider range of hole sizes. Don't have a taper attachment on the 13" lathe so it was a bit of whittling & blending to do the whole length and took a bit of time to get them up to standards. I've acquired a micro lathe that I'll be fabricating a taper attachment for to facilitate cutting pegs and mandrels. I acquired the little runt mainly for the purpose of cutting tapers on the tuning pegs and also making the mandrels. Got lots of projects going so it might have to wait for next Winter to materalize.

I'll possibly retire, at least to some degree, from the salt-mine in a couple years and am working my way toward a little violin/fiddle repair shop and make special tools in small quantities as time permits. Attaching a photo of the baby lathe with polyethylene mandrel chucked-up. As I'd said the mandrel was made on the big lathe and the monetary note is for size

perspective.

Steve

post-31641-0-61161900-1334250442_thumb.jpg

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If you could get your hands on a copy of the Pernambuco Book, there are two fabulous articles there about spiral bushings, one by Chris Germain and the other by The Leonhart Workshop that cover absolutely everything I could think off about spiral bushings.

I really liked the Chris Germain system... At the workshop I've made a prototype in those plastic material sold by Lee Valley, so glue doesn't stick to it.

(and if loading pictures was straight forward for computer dummies I would load them but really, I don't have any clue of how/where to get my "image URL", well I'll try something and see if this works... )

Seem that for some reason unlike Guy (helping me right now) I don't have a "downloading" window under... so sorry people, (if someone can help me...)

Edited by Ch. Dequincey
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I really liked the Chris Germain system... At the workshop I've made a prototype in those plastic material sold by Lee Valley, so glue doesn't stick to it.

Here are the two photos you wanted to post - !

post-28884-0-58507200-1334767788_thumb.jpg

post-28884-0-58454500-1334767879_thumb.jpg

Welcome to Maestronet- I hope you work out your computer problems!!

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Here are the two photos you wanted to post - !

post-28884-0-58507200-1334767788_thumb.jpg

post-28884-0-58454500-1334767879_thumb.jpg

Welcome to Maestronet- I hope you work out your computer problems!!

Guy,

Is that a blank peg reamer (without cutting flutes) or just the backside of a straight flute reamer? If so where are they available?

Steve

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Guy,

Is that a blank peg reamer (without cutting flutes) or just the backside of a straight flute reamer? If so where are they available?

Steve

Thanks Guy for posting the pictures for me!(for some reason my maestronet account doesn't allow me to post pictures :S or I need to figure out some setting up features)

Anyway, this is just a plastic version of Chris German wood jig, he uses to "cast" peg shavings before gluing them in the peg hole. I would recommend to read his article in the Wilder book.

Did you glue the bushing using the steel mandrel? I tried this several times but the bushing wouldn't come off. I ended up making the mandrel out of plastic instead. I used hide glue. Cheers,

actually the steel mandrel is a new "toy" we just got and I didn't had a chance yet to try it (just found it would be nice on the pictures :unsure: ) till now I used the wood mandrel with which I also had issues of it getting stuck sometimes... so I use lots of soap on it and try not to jam it too strongly in the hole when I prepare the bushings.

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