Reset neck or graft a new one...

[Guy_Gallo]

I have a a fiddle (the one pictured in my avatar) that has a neck that has been set and reset several times it would seem from the shims and trimmed ebony crown.

My luthier was looking at it today and felt that it was slightly off center, angled toward bass side -- and that the fingerboard was carved so as to compensate for this slight deviation. But that in an ideal world I should have it reset to true; or to actually fit a new neck which would make it possible to address all the reset problems and perhaps easier to adjust the angle over the body (which is fairly low).

Question is: how does on decide on reset versus new? It could be that the neck is original to the modernization done back in the 19thc. But it's likely not "original" to the instrument. Which is a composite.

I can't afford either at the moment, but it's an instrument I plan on keeping.

Just thought perhaps the restorers here might have some thoughts.

[MANFIO]

Hi Guy!

The question of the neck being a bit of centered is not a big problem, with no big tonal consequences, I think. I would not change the neck just for that.

The question of the angle of the neck over the body (most certainly coupled with a low bridge) is another question. You have not mentioned if the neck resets

are recent (and the instrument was not able to hold the new position) or old. In the first case perhaps some work in the soundbox to make it stronger and hold the

neck may be necessary also. In the case the neck resets are old perhaps a neck pull back could be tried, if you have some overhand of the top over the ribs in the

neck region. In this operation (neck pull back) the top is unglued from the ribs and upper block, the neck is tilted back and everything is reglued in the new

position. The question is if the instrument will resist the new tension.

The angle neck/bridge heigh is quite important for sound but other aspects will have to be studied, such as if the instrument will sound better - or not - with the

added "pressure", thicker instruments in general will profit from that.

But others here have much more experience than I and they will soon give you more advice. Ciao!!!

[Guy_Gallo]

I would guess the neck resets are old. The violin is likely mid-18thc composite. Scroll graft. And visible shims both at the base of the heel and under the fingerboard.

[MANFIO]

The shims are not a problem, provided they are stable, they are found in many old instruments, including Del Gesù's "Cannone".

[Jeffrey Holmes]

Guy;

I don't want to second-guess your luthier. You're going to him 'cause you trust his judgement (if you don't, why are you going to him?).

At the same time, I'm happy to list the criteria and thought process I use when considering a neck reset.

First, I ask myself if it's possible to put off until the violin is between owners... I hate to change something that a player likes and is used to unless there is a real reason to.

Next, if a neck set is necessary, how far would I take it? If the present neck is a graft already, and has set in pieces that don't have nicely tight bonds, I'd personally start thinking "new graft".

In your case you'd already spending well over a grand in NY to reset the thing... plus a new board & bridge it sounds like...might as well take it as far as it really needs to go.

There you go.

Cheers!

[Guy_Gallo]

Hi Jeffrey,

Thanks for the thoughts.

At this point my daughter is playing this violin. And doing nothing for the moment makes sense because the neck is actually thinner than most violins I've played and perhaps fits her hand better. But if she continues and is going to be playing this for a long while, we'll revisit the question.

The violin sounds great. But it's always tempting when someone says it can be even better.

Today's opinion was by an assistant in the shop; but the shop owner said much the same thing when he first laid eyes on the instrument when it was first set up after decades of disuse.

And you are right, the price quoted (including new board and bridge) suggested that a new graft would only be a few hundred more than the reset. And it was suggested the new graft would allow more flexibility in matching and maximizing the instrument.

[jacobsaunders]

As a general rule, the question “New neck or reset?” depends on what is considered deficiant with the present set up. If the projection or straightness are the only problems, a reset should normaly be adequate. If, however, the neck is to short, narrow or thin, a neck graft would seem more appropriate. So, if you would like Mn.ers to leave an opinion, you should perhaps get a calliper and measure: 1. Neck width at nut, 2. Neck width where the neck joins the body, 3. Neck thickness incl. fingerboard in 1st. position (without strings), 4.Neck thickness incl. fingerboard in 3rd. position (without strings), 5. length from nut to belly edge

[Guy_Gallo]

Good idea, Jacob. I'll see if I can get ahold of some calipers. I can say for sure that it feels thinner both across and vertically than other violins I own or have played.