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How thin is too thin around the f-holes?


lambert
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But you seem to be presenting your opinion as fact. So you are advising the OP to replace the excess wood removed?

Not really. I'd put strings on it and hear if it's ok. I have a similar problem to solve in the comning, and I have not yet decided if I'm going to add some wood or let it be as it is. I have strings on that one, and I havemodal analyses of it too. And the wings are even thinner than 2.3mm, below 2mm some places. There are cracks above the lower eyes on both sides. There is a double purfling. It is a regrad, if I'd started off with more wood, I'd stop around the averages for the model.

The wood matter too stiffer wood might work with thinner edges. And mine is a Hardanger fiddle. It sounds quite nicely, so will it become even better with thicker edges around the f-holes? I do not know, maybe not before I eventually have tried it. The top will come off anyway.

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If it was a decision between having an instrument prone to developing cracks, or a slight reduction in sound quality, I would accept the reduction unless it was a significant reduction in tone. It may sound good if left thin, but what good is that long term if it keeps requiring repairs?

It doesn't sound like you are in the danger zone yet, so try it out and see how it works. If it does crack later on, you can reconsider adding a bit of reinforcement.

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Surveys like this never mean much to me if the instruments aren't selected to make some sense first. Are they good, bad, early, late, what size, or, in del Gesu's case, regraduated? Taking them all and finding the average has as much validity as throwing statistical averaging at such questions as "What color is a car?" and "What does a mammal weigh?" I personally am interested to discover "How many is 'ducks'?"

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In the end you'll have to make the final decision of what to do since posters to the thread are going to contradict each other :)

Rather than tell you what to do - since I can't see the instrument first hand, I'll just offer some things to think about. Consider the strength and qualities of your top wood. Do you think it'll be prone to cracking? Do you think it's on the light or heavy side? Would adding cleats be something you're interested in? If you're so inclined, consider it an opportunity to try your hand at cleating.

You're concerned enough to ask. So, you might give yourself a little piece of mind by putting on the cleat. You can always take the top off to remove it if ,later, you're convinced that it's detrimental to the sound. Although, I doubt you will and your efforts will probably be better spent on your next fiddle.

I know that it won't be easy to judge these things since it's your first violin, but you'll learn by trying and that will be more important on this violin than ending up with the greatest, most ultimate, wicked good instrument ever (acoustically or structurally).

Use it as a learning experience and do a cleat or just get the violin done and move onto another one. Oops, I guess I just contradicted myself by telling you what to do. Whatever you choose to do will be fine.

Good Luck!

--Joe

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And here are the data for 49 del Gesús. Thicker, but the differences are smaller around the f-holes, especially the inner wings and sides.

Thank you for posting maps from such large samplings, and with deviations showing!

I don't suppose you could post maps of the rest of the top and back?

Really great to see basic data presented cleanly and simply.

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