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Bandsaw advice


Urban Luthier
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I have a 14" Toolex 1HP bandsaw that I have adapted to re-saw close to 9" by removing the guide and by cutting a corner from the upper cover. I use a blade called the "little ripper" that costs around $25 and I replace it about every 2 years depending on the amount of use or how well it cuts. It also helps to replace the standard belts with link belts to reduce the vibration.

Catnip - Nice 'Mod' to your bandsaw!

I've used the Little Ripper too, and it was a nice blade.

Interestingly enough, the person from the Tufftooth Booth said that they can re-sharpen them a couple of times.

If that is still the case, then I would email them to make sure it is so, and find-out the cost.

It may save money in the long run.

The blade did last longer for me than the Viking/Timberwolf (same blades, just different name) blades.

Little Ripper Bandsaw Blade

Low HP motors will benefit more from a sharp new blade.

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Pretty much any motor benefits from a sharp blade. Moreover, a dull blade tends to drift off the mark. For accurate ripping, a sharp blade is a must.

Yes you are right.

My point was that if you are using a low HP set-up, then blade sharpness is just that much more crucial, whereas a high HP saw will cut with the same blade longer.

The trick to getting the best re-sawing with any blade, is to use that blade for re-sawing only!

If you do any scroll work on your re-saw blade, taking a corner will wear one side of the blade more than the other, and then you have problems when trying to cut straight. It's a real temptation to try and use one blade on the saw all the time, since blade changes on a band saw are work, but if you want the best from your saw, then take the time to swap out the blades for each type of cut.

So avoiding an imbalanced re-sawing blade sharpness-wise.

When I get a new blade, I do the most demanding re-sawing first, to take advantage of the optimum conditions.

Sorry for not being clearer.

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