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Addie

3rd Soundpost Crack

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No, the soundpost itself. I was beguiled by the "Herdim Deluxe" name when I bought a setter. Sounds sexy, doesn't it? I think it's really a combination golf club and hockey stick. I bent it, and shaped the blade when I got it, but it was still so huge, a slight sideways twist and... CRACK! Each time I have narrowed and thinned the blade as a result. I think it's gone from 9 or 10mm down to 3mm, and now it's OK. But the other end! Even after rounding off the sharp edges several times, it still mars the soundpost. And bent the way it is, it's really only good for moving the lower end of the post. Does anyone make the Spohr tool for getting at the top of the post?

What is a good soundpost setter? I don't play golf or hockey. dry.gif

I am enjoying making my own soundpost stock. Splitting, planing, and sanding round. Of course, I had to make it because I ran out... because of the setter. mad.gif

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No, that's not the same one. Mine the head is 4 times as thick, and the blade looks like that now, but started off 3 times as wide. I think I would be happy with your style setter.

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When I was still a teenager, I bought the basic GEWA Soundpost setter. Where I worked then, I made on average 5 or 6 soundposts a week. I spent about 3 months bending it, filing bits off etc. until I was comfortable with it and it was least lightly to damage the f hole, then I hardened it (1. red hot, 2. dunk it in a bucket of water) and have lived happily ever after with it ever since.

If it would be of any help, you can PM me your Email address and I could put it in my scanner and try to send a picture like that, although I have to make the reservation that I'm a hopeless dunce with computers.

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Once again, here is my method of working with setting sound posts. Check this.

Note that I rarely ever need a soundpost retriever. That's right! When I do need it, I know I had too much red Zinfandel wine - our favorite.

Can anyone else make the same claim using their medieval peg sticker?

Stay Tuned.

Mike

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No, the soundpost itself. I was beguiled by the "Herdim Deluxe" name when I bought a setter. Sounds sexy, doesn't it? I think it's really a combination golf club and hockey stick. I bent it, and shaped the blade when I got it, but it was still so huge, a slight sideways twist and... CRACK! Each time I have narrowed and thinned the blade as a result. I think it's gone from 9 or 10mm down to 3mm, and now it's OK. But the other end! Even after rounding off the sharp edges several times, it still mars the soundpost. And bent the way it is, it's really only good for moving the lower end of the post. Does anyone make the Spohr tool for getting at the top of the post?

What is a good soundpost setter? I don't play golf or hockey. dry.gif

I am enjoying making my own soundpost stock. Splitting, planing, and sanding round. Of course, I had to make it because I ran out... because of the setter. mad.gif

What you need is one of these ere thingy's..Made it myself. No fuss,no muss, no marks on post. Works like a charm....Tony post-28965-0-81936400-1323384537_thumb.jpg

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What you need is one of these ere thingy's..Made it myself. No fuss,no muss, no marks on post. Works like a charm....Tony

Dude, that's a "roach clip". :D Nothin' against them or anything, though I don't indulge myself, but there are better tools for inserting soundposts.

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When lutherie and surgery meet each other.... :)

I am pleased to say that I did manage to insert a soundpost into the 1/8 violin without too much fuss with a S shaped metal hook that I simply sharpened in the end.

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When David is referring to better tools, I think he is referring to something a little more simple. Thanks to Skywalker for providing the props.

You could get a misdemeaner fine for that in Ann Arbor.

Scott

I'll never play fiddle with Willie again.

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When David is referring to better tools, I think he is referring to something a little more simple. Thanks to Skywalker for providing the props.

Are those the soundpost setters that Yanbing Chen sells? I bought one of the gold-plated ones, but it looked too nice to use, so it's just been laying on my bench.

I just noticed something odd in the back of your picture. Was that Skywalker's contribution? Shame on you, Skywalker. :lol:

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Are those the soundpost setters that Yanbing Chen sells? I bought one of the gold-plated ones, but it looked too nice to use, so it's just been laying on my bench.

I just noticed something odd in the back of your picture. Was that Skywalker's contribution? Shame on you, Skywalker. :lol:

Good eye! Those are the post setters Yanbing sells. They work very well.

I am also quite skilled with a paper towel and touch up brush. ;)

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Are those the soundpost setters that Yanbing Chen sells? I bought one of the gold-plated ones, but it looked too nice to use, so it's just been laying on my bench.

I just noticed something odd in the back of your picture. Was that Skywalker's contribution? Shame on you, Skywalker. :lol:

I had planned to post pictures of those setters for the original poster, but after your roach comment David, I just couldn't resist. Skywalker was in the shop and more than happy to put his touch-up skills to work.

Addie,

I had one of those Herdim deluxes before. When I started working for my current employer, I bought that black one in the picture from Yanbing Chen at Cleveland Violins. I found I liked it better than the Herdim. It is already rounded everywhere, and it has a nice balance and all. I didn't have to do much modification, it worked well right away. Plus it is cheaper than the Herdim. A couple of years ago my boss bought gold colored ones for Xmas with our initials in it. Now I have 2 and I got rid of the Herdim. Jacob's way of filing away at a setter until it works well sounds like a good plan too. You could do that with the Herdim. It is beefy enough.

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The best ones I've seen are all hand made,

out of real steel,,,you know,,heavy smooth and strong,

you can't bend them around easily.

The wider part in the center is a wee bit larger and ovaled, like a smashed football

and very smooth and sexy feeling.

They need to have some weight behind them so that a gentle tap will give some predictable movement,

if it is too light it takes too much banging around to get the job done. you want a lite touch

with a little mass, rather than a lot of tapping around,,(think of golf clubs)..with no mass.

The taper on the end should be fairly thin,,and sharp,,

then take a file and hit the sharpened edge with a corner of a file a couple of times to produce a burr or two in the sharpened edge.

The disturbed material should amount to about .5mm in thickness total,

and the taper should be so that with the setter in the soundpost about 1/2 of it's diameter,

the taper is just getting firm in the wood,

The burrs prevent the setter from just pushing through the post and splitting it,,,

but also hold it on the soundpost firmly so it won't fall off.

I like a blade of about 3-4mm tall,,if the blade is too narrow,, the slightest twist in the wrong direction will split the post every time.

I,ve had the gold ones and they feel slippery to me,,,not sure ,,,

now,,do you set from the treble hole or the bass side hole??? :blink:

Evan

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Dude, that's a "roach clip". :D Nothin' against them or anything, though I don't indulge myself, but there are better tools for inserting soundposts.

David,

How did we get from soundpost installer to roach clip? Must be a sign of a mis-spent youth.

Seriously, this is the only tool that I use to install soundposts. I have a larger one for cello. It has the advantatge that you can tell the orientation and vertical position by the finger loops.

I know that I will never convince the standard pick users, but it works for me and it is fast and does not leave a scar on the post....Tony

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David,

How did we get from soundpost installer to roach clip? Must be a sign of a mis-spent youth.

Seriously, this is the only tool that I use to install soundposts. I have a larger one for cello. It has the advantatge that you can tell the orientation and vertical position by the finger loops.

I know that I will never convince the standard pick users, but it works for me and it is fast and does not leave a scar on the post....Tony

Is that a modified Backhaus ?

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Is that a modified Backhaus ?

Hi Atomino,

Im afraid that I do not know what a "Backhaus" is. I googled it and got everything from restaurants to band leaders.

I buy these hemostats from Princess Auto, for about $6.00, here in Canada. I then heat and bend the ends into a curve to suit the o.d. of the soundpost and then heat and bend near the hinge joint. The pic I showed above was a proto type, I now install heat shrink rubber tubing over the claws.

I see you live in Italy, if you cant find them over there and would like one, email me and I will send you one......Tony

post-28965-0-33373100-1323439314_thumb.jpg

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Well, if Strad had spark plug boot pullers and hemostats, he would have used them, right? laugh.gif

The manipulation part of using the Medieval sticker doesn't bother me... just the design of my particular setter, and the way is cracks and mars. And there's no hurry, anyhow, with the sizing, fitting, placing, and then playing in to evaluate the tone/balance/etc., and then moving, checking fit, and playing in again...

I confess, though, I have muttered a few colorful epithets when I knocked the post over. ohmy.gif

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i notice you dont know if europeans have hemostats, wannabe, do you know what a hemostat is?? it a surgical tool, used for clamping tissue, blood vessels etc, they do have hospitals and modern medicine in europe!!!!! in fact i think they had them before we do, now if you bought your hemostat at a head shop, i can see the confusion, i got mine from a doctor(but ive never used it for soundposts)once in a while a soundpost keeps falling off the poker, i can see a hemostat might work in that situation

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i notice you dont know if europeans have hemostats, wannabe, do you know what a hemostat is?? it a surgical tool, used for clamping tissue, blood vessels etc, they do have hospitals and modern medicine in europe!!!!! in fact i think they had them before we do, now if you bought your hemostat at a head shop, i can see the confusion, i got mine from a doctor(but ive never used it for soundposts)once in a while a soundpost keeps falling off the poker, i can see a hemostat might work in that situation

Oh come on Lyndon...do you think I am an absolute moron? Of course I know what a hemostat is and what it is used for. I was most probably using them on wilderness canoe trips long before you were born.

For your information I am from Europe and settled in Canada, so I am aware that they do have hospitals and modern medicine over there. In fact I was over there just last week. If I didnt know you better I would think that your comments may have been directed as a Canadian put down. By the way I have no idea what a head shop is, please explain.

You obviously have no idea what "Princess Auto" is or you would not have gone off on this rant. I was offering to send a hemostat to Atomino because they are soooo cheap here.

Tony

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sorry, wannabe, no problem with canadians, im used to put downs cause im australian, what a lot of people are not used to is australian type humour, at least in america. i was trying semi-humourosly to mention that if you infer to an italian that they might not have hemostats there, its almost insulting, sorry for the misunderstanding

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It looks like a nice idea for a setter but how do you manage to pass the soundpost and the scissor through the F-hole?

Hi Robertdo,

You first pass the claw part of the tool in throgh the F-hole. Open the tool and orientate the claw under the F-hole. Then pass the soundpost through the F-hole and the open claw of the tool. Check orientation of sound post in claw and close the tool. It locks as you close it. You are then free to move the post anywhere you wish with no fear of it dropping off. With the finger holes of the tool being exactly at 90 degrees to the post, there is no guessing if the post is upright or not.

Does that make sense? If not I can post some pics.....Tony

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Hi Robertdo,

You first pass the claw part of the tool in throgh the F-hole. Open the tool and orientate the claw under the F-hole. Then pass the soundpost through the F-hole and the open claw of the tool. Check orientation of sound post in claw and close the tool. It locks as you close it. You are then free to move the post anywhere you wish with no fear of it dropping off. With the finger holes of the tool being exactly at 90 degrees to the post, there is no guessing if the post is upright or not.

Does that make sense? If not I can post some pics.....Tony

It does make sense indeed, yes. It's neat and clever.

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