arglebargle Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Old violin, rib miter has come apart, need to re-glue and clamp with top and back still attached. So, everytime I come across this repair, I find myself rethinking all the options and methods I could use, and I usually find them all lacking in some way. I've tried the Herdim corner clamps with all the doo-hickeys attached, and have yet to make them work in the slightest. I've also used my fingers and just sat there for 20 min, but I am sure there is a better way, and of course clothes-pins, but... Any ideas or jigs or anything would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Yacey Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Heavy duty spring clamps with the plastic tip covers: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iburkard Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 There could be nothing behind the corner join, so be sure to scope things out before applying a heavy duty spring clamp to thin rib wood. Sometimes I make a simple block with the desired "V" shape of the corner cut into it. I then line it with cork, and use the un-notched side of the block as a flat clamping surface to pull the parts together across the body. Keep things simple... if a spring clamp works, go for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NewNewbie Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 You could try this maybe? From this website. I am also thinking that if you took the counter-forms from the above clamping picture, and cut a recess in the backside of them to fit the ends of the Herdim clamps, you might get a better closure, and not need to have the top off. Herdim Herdim better pic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad Dorsey Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Old violin, rib miter has come apart, need to re-glue and clamp with top and back still attached.... What makes clamping the miter difficult is that any type of clamp wants to slip off the smooth angled surfaces. I think I have successfully clamped these using small C clamps with little anti-slip pads under the jaws. What I use for the pads is similar in function to, but not exactly the same as this stuff: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003174/2077/Bench-Mate-Non-Slip-Pad.aspx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Yacey Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 There could be nothing behind the corner join, so be sure to scope things out before applying a heavy duty spring clamp to thin rib wood. Sometimes I make a simple block with the desired "V" shape of the corner cut into it. I then line it with cork, and use the un-notched side of the block as a flat clamping surface to pull the parts together across the body. Keep things simple... if a spring clamp works, go for it. That's a very good idea, elastic bands could be used to hold it in place until the glue sets. I've used the spring clamps successfully, although the ones I used were somewhat smaller than the one pictured; I couldn't find a photo of the smaller 4 inch version I use. The vinyl like plastic covers help prevent it from sliding off the edge, and I clamp the ribs together right at the tip. Should there not be any corner block in behind, clamping at the tip just glues the first couple millimeters of the rib mitre rather than crushing the whole corner into splinters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeC Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 it looks like the ribs are separated little bit from the bottom plate also. I think you'll have to glue the rib join first then glue them to the bottom plate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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