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Faléro Schutz-Marke Trade Mark


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....it's hard to imagine what the inventor must have been thinking when inventing that bar. What kind of improvement did he think that would bring to the instrument?

He or she must have intended that the bar (dowel) resist the tension of the strings. String tension tends to compress the top shorter with the result that the top arching bulges up higher and the fingerboard extension falls.

Two questions immediately come to mind: 1. Does it work? 2. How does it affect the instrument's sound?

The odd dowel in this instrument is such an obvious way to stabilize the top that I'm surprised I've never come across something like this before. The closest I've seen is in an Isiah Arey (American) violin that I have. In this violin, a short dowel runs from each upper corner block near the back to the upper block near the top. I'll see if I can put up a picture of it.

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He or she must have intended that the bar (dowel) resist the tension of the strings. String tension tends to compress the top shorter with the result that the top arching bulges up higher and the fingerboard extension falls.

ok now that makes sense. I never would have thought of that.

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so here you are

the invention concerns the making of strings instrument and how to improve their tone.

Up to now the sharp corners of the ribs were filled with corner blocks, or there were linings all around.

According to the new invention the ribs are made more "solid" stable by an inside rib which is glued to the back only, and left free towards the belly.

Because you have the inside ribs you can make the outside ribs thinner, which allows the instrument to vibrate more freely.

You can if you want put a floating stab, fitted in the belly on top and bottom which would reinforce the vibrations of the table, or allow the middle to swing more freely.

Patentanspruch The patent itself :

The instruments which are built with an inside rib going from the upper rib to the lower rib, instead of having corners blocks and where the inside ribs only touch the back of the instrument and are not fitted to the table can vibrate more freely.

The floating bar or the dowel seems to be there to reinforce the vibrations of the table ( does not say any thing about the tension of the strings.]

the middle bit with the letter refers as you gather to the drawing and explain what the text says and does not reveal any thing else so I skipped it

so there you are

thanks everybody


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Thanks Alistaire for clearing up the mystery.

Does your violin have these double ribs?

Yes luthierwannabe

you can see them in the middle picture I uploaded.

On "my" violin one corner of the outside ribs broke

When the patent says that the inside rib should not touch the table I don't see it feasable

and I find it a bit weird

On "my" one anyway you can see the glue and light "leftovers" of the spruce.

I am wondering if the original had a sound post.

It seems to me that ,beside the fact that it will be difficult to fit because of the placing of the floating bar, it goes again the principle of letting the table vibrate freely.

I'll have to try and see.

Anyway thank you for your interest

It was fun to find out


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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Thank you for the pictures!

My fantasy has been: what if you run a dowel from the top bloch to the bottom block

that is strong enough to take the load from the string tension.

Then the top and bottom plate would not have to be strong enough to support the

strings, just supply some alignment strength. So the plates and ribs could be thinner

and ...

There was a student VSO in Australia with a metal rod supplying support, and flat plates.

I never saw a good close up picture or heard a sound clip. I have wondered...

Now that I have been retired, I am planning to try for a cheap 1/2 size

fiddle design that sounds decent. So I find these posts interesting.

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  • 4 months later...

I have one of these Faleros with the central bar, but it looks like the bar is coming unglued. Or I may have disloged it

when I reset my soundpost. Is there any advice on taking the top off? I am having trouble around the saddle and the notched

part under the fingerboard. I am using a dropper with hot water and a putty knife.


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The first pic is the whole two part dowel, the second is zooming in on the split. It doesn't look broken, but split on purpose.

Should I find a 1/2 inch piece of dowel and glue the two parts together? Or leave it the way it is?

<a href="http://s1166.photobucket.com/albums/q605/iuval/?action=view&current=IMG_5714-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q605/iuval/IMG_5714-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s1166.photobucket.com/albums/q605/iuval/?action=view&current=IMG_5715.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/q605/iuval/IMG_5715.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

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