• Announcements

    • ghunt

      Whole Site SSL   03/08/17

      Whole site SSL is now turned on and forced for all pages on Maestronet. If you have any problems, please contact the admin team.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
lpr5184

In-Cannel or Out-Cannel Gouges

10 posts in this topic

I've had my eye on a particular antique gouge for some time now and yesterday after researching the company...I decided to buy it. My hesitation to buy this gouge was because it is an In-Cannel and most of the gouges I've seen posted were Out-Cannel type. Are In-Cannel gouges mostly made for wood turning? Can an In-Cannel gouge be used to carve tops and backs? What are the pro's and cons when using and/or sharpening.

The gouge was made by the L. & I.J. White company of Buffalo, NY.

http://toolemera.com/Manufacturers%20%26%20Merchants/Mfg.%20v-z/mfg.l.i.j.white.html

-Ernie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In Cannel gouges are used for making straight cuts.

In violin making they are most useful for shaping corner blocks, where you want a flat surface cut to a radius. A large one can be used for some rough arching, but they are not as versatile as the Out Cannel type for this work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In-cannel for shaping corner blocks and trimming them after the garland comes off the mold, regular gouges for everything else?

I only own one factory-made in-cannel gouge. I did make a little one once, for grooving the undersides of bow plugs, but it now sits unused, casting sorrowful glances at the little store-bought palm gouge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In-cannels are not generally used for turning. I have recently learned to appreciate them for scroll work and a few other things. The ones I use most, both in-cannel and out-cannel, are home made and I have sets of both. In-cannels are a little trickier to sharpen but not too bad. Can you get along without in-cannels? Of course.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here are some pictures...I dropped it off yesterday to my saw sharpening guy and he put an edge on it but I would like to see if I can remove all the gouge marks that are still left...it is much better than before...Has anyone ever reground to make an in-cannel into a out-cannel? That's alot of grinding and I would be worried about destroying the temper...so I guess that isn't a good idea. I would like to use this gouge for rough arching...either way I think it's a beautiful piece of american manufacturing history...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HHas anyone ever reground to make an in-cannel into a out-cannel? That's alot of grinding and I would be worried about destroying the temper...so I guess that isn't a good idea.

I have, I just retempered it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sharpening guy? :) He also sold me a leather apron. But that's another story.

johnny-depp-as-edward-scissorhands-1990.jpg

It's easy to change a gouge. If you can sacrifice a sanding drum. Simply clamp a hand drill into a vice (with padding), and then glide the blade over the spinning drum. It's not the safest operation, but works and gives a nice clean look. It is also possible to get different diameter sanding drums for different size gouges.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The incannel gouge seems nice for shaping corner blocks etc. I use a small incannel gouge to hollow the pegbox. It is very efficient.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other point: If you hone a significant microbevel on the outside of an in-cannel, it takes on some of the character of an out-cannel without a lot of work. Try that before you do a major regrind. An advantage is that you can make a "long" microbevel easily that can give you better leverage without weakening the edge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One other point: If you hone a significant microbevel on the outside of an in-cannel, it takes on some of the character of an out-cannel without a lot of work. Try that before you do a major regrind. An advantage is that you can make a "long" microbevel easily that can give you better leverage without weakening the edge.

Makes sense...Thanks for the suggestion...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.