Guest Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 While looking at Dremel rotary tools today I ran across a German made equivalent or better rotary tool...actually made in Germany Since I ordered the Dremel tool attachment for cutting the purfling channel from Stew Mac...I am hoping to somehow fabricate a way to attach this to the Proxxon rotary tool. Does any one have any knowledge or experience using this tool. Also I was looking at Michael Darton's purfling channel tool that he made and was wondering what kind of tool he used...it almost looks pneumatic. Nice to see something here in the states that is Made in Germany... These tools look very nice...
COB3 Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 If I recall correctly, Mr. Darnton uses a Foredom tool, with a flex-shaft, and the gizmo at the end he made to accommodate purfling.
Frederick Dale Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I have no personal experience with Proxxon tools but several of my professional woodcarving friends rate them highly as they do Foredom tools. I have used Dremels for years and have experienced a steady decline in the quality of their bearings among other things. My next rotary tool will be a Proxxon unless something better comes along.
jezzupe Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 Actually, I have a dremel, but mostly use my Sears one. actually most of my power tools are some of the more modern sears tools. I don't love them, nor do I hate them, I just like the extra challenge of working with crappy tools. Its just not hard enough with sharp stuff and good tools...I prefer wobble in my blade and dull tools, it makes it more exciting
~ Ben Conover Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I've had the same Dremel for 15 years, never had a problem with it. Always used it with the purfling jig. It's done a lot of grooves. I looked into Foredom at the time but I thought the dremel would suit the simple task better when combined with the purfling jig from Stew Mac. If Proxxon do something similar then go for it. Why not. The Foredom tool is a superior beast but not sure if it will fit the jig from Stew mac. If you go the Darnton way I'd beware of side wobble with the hand piece. The Stew Mac jig is wide enough to eliminate any side wobble, much more stable I'd have thought. Otherwise, use a knife and a chisel ! Cheers.
fiddlecollector Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 Does anyone on here actually do purfling by hand?
Piergiuseppe Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I make the purfling by hand. Poplar and pear-tree wood dyed.
~ Ben Conover Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I also make purfling by hand but cutting the grooves by hand is really just a waste of time when I can get the job done much better in 20 mins with the Dremel. (I also use light bulbs but candles are also ok).
Guest Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 (I also use light bulbs but candles are also ok).
Piergiuseppe Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 (I also use light bulbs but candles are also ok). ROTFL!!
JohnCockburn Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 Does anyone on here actually do purfling by hand? I do. I find it immensely satisfying. Like picking my nose.
Don Noon Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I have had a few Dremels, and the quality of the collets and bearings are nowhere near good enough to make accurate purfling grooves, IMHO. I can't answer for Proxxon. The Foredom handpieces are much more like machine tools... good bearings and quality collets. I wouldn't use anything else.
Frederick Dale Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I do. I find it immensely satisfying. Like picking my nose. What kind of pick do you use?
JohnCockburn Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 What kind of pick do you use? trade secret.
Geoff-UK Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I also make purfling by hand but cutting the grooves by hand is really just a waste of time when I can get the job done much better in 20 mins with the Dremel. (I also use light bulbs but candles are also ok). Ben - From what I can gather it would not work too well if purfling after the body is closed up and the edges partially sunk ? I'd try it if I was pufling the flat plate on the bench. I don't find it too tedious a task by hand - and quite satisfying. I'm not adverse to machines - I have a pencil sharpener Frederick - I have a couple of pickers I made myself. They are a bit of a pain to get right. I've never bought one so don't know what they usually are. Mine are made to shave along the flat of the groove base, rather than 'pick'. Geoff
Guest Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I have had a few Dremels, and the quality of the collets and bearings are nowhere near good enough to make accurate purfling grooves, IMHO. I can't answer for Proxxon. The Foredom handpieces are much more like machine tools... good bearings and quality collets. I wouldn't use anything else. That's good to know Don I will look further into the Foredom tools...One question tho, do you cut the groove freehand or are you using a guide like the Stew Mac one for Dremel? -Ernie
NewNewbie Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I would just get the Dremel that fits your holder, and tackle any future problems when they present themselves. For future considerations, here is a unit that Tom Croen offers. Purfling tool
DBurns Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 Dremel have improved some since earlier versions. If you are only doing a few feet of purfling, then I don't see the unit wearing out much. I think the thread size on the end of the Dremel is 3/4" x 12 tpi, or 3/4 x 16 tpi. So a European unit might be metric.
Don Noon Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 That's good to know Don I will look further into the Foredom tools...One question tho, do you cut the groove freehand or are you using a guide like the Stew Mac one for Dremel? -Ernie I have the Foredom handpiece clamped to the head of my mini-mill, and use a pin on the table for a guide. I also adapted a small motor to the handpiece to replace the flexshaft. Overkill, but I like doing that kind of stuff. You can see my setup here
Bill Yacey Posted November 14, 2010 Report Posted November 14, 2010 I have had a few Dremels, and the quality of the collets and bearings are nowhere near good enough to make accurate purfling grooves, IMHO. I can't answer for Proxxon. The Foredom handpieces are much more like machine tools... good bearings and quality collets. I wouldn't use anything else. I am of the same opinion. I have a Dremel 3950 that I bought new in the late 1980's, and had it replaced under warranty because the brush holders broke, and they upgraded the brush holders and housing. Both units always had vibration / balance issues, and the collets and 3 jaw chuck never seem to center the bit properly causing wobble and further vibration. In my opinion these are more of an entry level hobbyist toy rather than a precision machine tool. Recently I wanted to replace the bearings, and Dremel wouldn't sell them, telling me I had to return the complete unit for overhaul, and they would replace the armature, collet shaft and bearings; essentially everything but the housing.They told me that everything is balanced together as a unit. I declined thinking if they balance it they way it was when I bought it new, why bother? I found some bearings at a bearing house, and they made little difference after replacement. I currently still use the Dremel with Stew Macs purfling attachment, but I'm far from pleased. I have to use an undersize bit due to the wobble widening the groove.
Guest Posted November 15, 2010 Report Posted November 15, 2010 I am of the same opinion. I have a Dremel 3950 that I bought new in the late 1980's, and had it replaced under warranty because the brush holders broke, and they upgraded the brush holders and housing. Both units always had vibration / balance issues, and the collets and 3 jaw chuck never seem to center the bit properly causing wobble and further vibration. In my opinion these are more of an entry level hobbyist toy rather than a precision machine tool. Recently I wanted to replace the bearings, and Dremel wouldn't sell them, telling me I had to return the complete unit for overhaul, and they would replace the armature, collet shaft and bearings; essentially everything but the housing.They told me that everything is balanced together as a unit. I declined thinking if they balance it they way it was when I bought it new, why bother? I found some bearings at a bearing house, and they made little difference after replacement. I currently still use the Dremel with Stew Macs purfling attachment, but I'm far from pleased. I have to use an undersize bit due to the wobble widening the groove. Sounds like the Foredom Tools are the way to go...Thanks -Ernie
JPherson Posted November 15, 2010 Report Posted November 15, 2010 (I also use light bulbs but candles are also ok). what electricity is ok?!?!?!?!? Jesse
PeSt Posted November 15, 2010 Report Posted November 15, 2010 Boy am I glad to use a knife for the task. No vibration, no wobble Cheers Peter
Alan_Coggins Posted November 15, 2010 Report Posted November 15, 2010 Tom Croen also makes a very neat purfling tool that fits on a Foredom. He demonstrated it to us when he was out here last May. Tom Croen purfling tool
Ken Pollard Posted November 16, 2010 Report Posted November 16, 2010 Boy am I glad to use a knife for the task. No vibration, no wobble Cheers Peter No guarantee on that! Take a look at the Ole Bull del Gesu. If buying, I too would recommend the Foredom. If you already have a Dremel, then the jig does have one advantage over the Foredom -- it sits flat on the bench. I found I am quite capable of tipping the Foredom out of vertical, which does wonderful things to the purfling line! I did have a Dremel, and will someday get a Foredom, but one thing I really liked with the Foredom was the foot-switch. It's a real pain to switch off the Dremel (the switch being on the body) with the bit in the plate. I built a simple little kill-box to sit on the floor -- doesn't adjust the speed like the Foredom switch, but does make it easier to end a cut.
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