What's a good saw for scrolls?

[DonLeister]

The saw I'm using is getting a bit dull after 4 years or so and was wondering what others were using to cut scrolls with, in particular.

I think mine came from IVC, called a 'micro saw' , it cuts on the pull. It was great when it was sharp, only thing I wish it could cut a little deeper, sometimes the spine would scrape the outside of the pegbox as I cut off the facets. That would be for violins/violas.

Thanks in advance.

[MANFIO]

I love this one:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp...p;dept_id=13087

There is also the same for cruss cut.

[actonern]

I love this one...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx...amp;cat=1,42884

[DonLeister]

I think my saw was the cheap takeoff on those saws, but about half the length. Doesn't a saw that long sort of get in the way? I've always used shorter ones because that's what I had. I have actually never seen someone cutting a scroll down.

[Salve Håkedal]

Japaneese tools are fine, but I love this small and old beatup Disston(?). It can be set up quite easily with a file (Is that called "dressing" in english?), so it won't be unusable after some years. I guess that can be done with japanese saws too, but their teeth are different, so I've never tried.

[Bill Yacey]

I use an old Henry Disston & Sons #68 dovetail saw.

[Nicolas Temino]

I use this Japanese stuff. Works great.

[MANFIO]

I love this mini one too, but it is ver delicate:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp...p;dept_id=13085

[~ Ben Conover]

A scroll saw ? That's the one electric that goes up and down.

I got mine cheap and I use it for 'not much' these days.

A better one would actually be able to cut through 2 inches of maple.

For scrolls I cut them out with the bandsaw.

The cross sawing you lot are on about, I use a cheapo japanese rip off saw, which has lasted 5 years.

I also have some traditional type saws but they need sharpening, and that's not easy with such small teeth.....

So yes, I'd agree that the Japanese type saws are the best.

[lvlagneto]

beware of newer dovetail saws - teeth are often large and sometimes too thick with 'offset' teeth (cheaply stamped) - look carefully when you buy

[~ Ben Conover]

To saw out a scroll, you can use a coping saw, but it's hard work.

[robertdo]

To saw out a scroll, you can use a coping saw, but it's hard work.

I made only three violin scrolls, all three with a coping saw and I can testify that even with a brand new saw it's painful work!

[Bill Yacey]

To saw out a scroll, you can use a coping saw, but it's hard work.

I don't think the original poster was asking about cutting the outline, but rather roughing out the waste wood on the volute if I understand correctly.

[Oded Kishony]

I think Japan Woodworker has a saw sharpening service, if the saw you own is worthy.

I've sharpened my favorite Japanese Dozuki saw using a saw file

Oded

[~ Ben Conover]

'' I don't think the original poster was asking about cutting the outline, but rather roughing out the waste wood on the volute if I understand correctly. ''

I know.

[DonLeister]

The teeth are very fine on my saw, Oded, I've never seen a file that would be skinny enough to do it. But thanks for the link, I'll look into it.

Do you have one of the skinny files that they sell?

[Oded Kishony]

Do you have one of the skinny files that they sell?

I do, and I've used it to sharpen one of my Japanese saws. I also use it for the E string groove at the nut. It's a pretty handy file to have.

OK

[Ray Lee]

I love this mini one too, but it is ver delicate:

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp...p;dept_id=13085

I used this one too ! I like it !

[DonLeister]

Thanks for all the tips everyone. I have a Japan woodworker catalog and it has a good range of options.

I think I'm going to get a file like Oded showed and try sharpening my old saw before I buy another saw. It's 28 teeth per inch, I wouldn't think they made files that would work, but what the hey. I could use the file for nuts too.

[Oded Kishony]

I've found this tool to be quite useful for sharpening a variety of tools including saws.

Oded

[Ken_N]

Can you sharpen the replaceable induction hardened saw blades? I had one that seemed dull, and I replaced it, but I have more problems with them chipping teeth off when the cut goes through and I slam it into the metal vise. I know that's not a good habit, but I've done it a couple of times on two saws! It would put wood liners on the vise, but it doesn't open that wide. I'm stuck with it for now.

Ken

[Michael_Molnar]

How do you sharpen the (expensive) Japanese saws?

I use disposables.

Mike

[Oded Kishony]

The diamond file I posted about earlier will cut through any metal

OK

[Jim_B]

Hi Don.

I use a Zona saw for scroll work on violins and violas and a Japanese saw for cellos. The Zona, #ZON -35-100 on this page: Zona Saws I use the backsaw blade in the set. It is extremely thin with 32 tpi. I've used these for years and the blades stay straight even though a nice feature is that you can actually put a curve in the blade and cut a slightly curved line. They are very inexpensive and the blades are replaceable. I've never had to replace a blade and I use this saw for many purposes. It works great for cutting off the ends of pegs. I like it for violins because it seems "right" for the delicate work at hand and even my smallest Japanese saw seems like overkill. I like the control and feel of the Zona in this situation even though the cutting action is still very aggressive. If there is a slight problem it's the knurled nut which attaches the blade loosens easily and must be tightned constantly. I keep meaning to put a lock washer on but just never get around to it.

Good Luck.

Jim Brown

Workshop Site

PS. When are you coming back to the workshop? Had some particularly fine instruments to study this year: Doc Sloan's of course as well as the "Jupiter" Strad owned by Arnold Belnick and the "Hozier-Andrews" Bergonzi featured at the Exhibition in Cremona owned by Mr. Alan Grishman. Next year we'll have all these instruments plus a long period Strad. Fun, huh.

[Berl Mendenhall]

Before I had a good ban saw I used to cut out the necks and scrolls with just a small back saw and a coping saw. I used the coping saw for the under throat cut and around the volutes. I just set up a mirror behind the neck to see the back side of the neck and made a series of down cuts to the line marked out on the neck block. If you make the cuts fairly close together you can take your chisel and snap them off and clean up with a sharp chisel. It's really a lot easier than it sounds, just pay attention the the down cuts and don't go past the lines. It's actually pleasant work. With the ban saw I find myself doing the same thing, down cuts and then cutting them off. Makes turning easier and you don't have the blade wondering. What I'm trying to say is if you have a fairly decent back saw and a coping that's all you really need.

Berl