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Where I Can Buy Drum Skin?

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Hi all,

I do not know where to go to get drum skin. I do not see anywhere to advertise "drum Skin" which is used to

cover (underside of) e-string at the bridge? Any substitute I may use? Will a drop of super glue

work? Thank you in advance.

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Buying a new head or skin can be expensive. I purchase broken heads from an online maker/repairer. One head will last a long time, depending on how many repairs/setups you do. In your case, one broken head should last a while!

I agree that some drum skin can be too thick, but it's easy to scrape down.

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Buying a new head or skin can be expensive. I purchase broken heads from an online maker/repairer. One head will last a long time, depending on how many repairs/setups you do. In your case, one broken head should last a while!

Care to share where you purchase the broken heads from?

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Care to share where you purchase the broken heads from?

To be honest, I would never buy from the person again. It took a long time to get what I wanted, but a lot of it. I shouldn't have made it sound like I have some ongoing relationship with the person. There are sellers on eBay that sell natural skins... can inquire if they have scrap or broken heads for sale (be sure to say you want it cheap, and don't tell them what it's for). :)

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Just wondering, what does the skin actually do to the sound characteristics? I have some rawhide from a yearling fawn (deer) would that work a well?

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Hi all,

I do not know where to go to get drum skin. I do not see anywhere to advertise "drum Skin" which is used to

cover (underside of) e-string at the bridge? Any substitute I may use? Will a drop of super glue

work? Thank you in advance.

The first bits I bought were from a witchcraft suppliers :) They write spells on real vellum. They even had a choice beyween goat, calf or virgin sheep ! I bought a few 2" squares, quite cheaply. It ws a bit odd talking on the phone to a witch with a Birmingham accent !

Fiddling around with those I realised it did not matter how thick it was as it will shave down easily, leaving the 'skin' side intact.

Stringmail ( UK - but prob most string suppliers ) sell natural banjo vellums. Most drum skins are synthetic I think. I bought a 10" which will last me forever. I cut a long strip to width and shave it with a sharp blade - as thin as you want leaving the skin side intact - which needs a bit of care. As they come they are 0.3 - 0.6mm thick, so need thinning down to maybe 0.1 or so for violin.

stringmail uk - bottom of page

I stick them on with tightbond original - tacks off really quick - dries hard.

Geoff

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Hi all,

I do not know where to go to get drum skin. I do not see anywhere to advertise "drum Skin" which is used to

cover (underside of) e-string at the bridge? Any substitute I may use? Will a drop of super glue

work? Thank you in advance.

I use these: http://www.gewamusic.com/197.html?&L=1...hText=405-|-990

Don't know what they cost, but can't be expensive. Can easily be glued with CA and bend.

Frits

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Howard Core sells drumskin in disks about 9" across. They used to sell violin and cello, but now only cello ($12 or so, last time I got some). It's easy enough to scrape thinner with a scraper, on the unpolished side. I use superglue, but unless you get a good strategy, it makes a mess, so if you're not doing a lot of it, Titebond is probably better.

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Here's another option:

Once I glued a little sliver of phenolic circuit board material into the top of the bridge under the E, it was about 1.5mm wide and about 0.5mm deep. A slight groove was cut into it for the string, and it worked admirably. Acoustically it didn't seem to harm the tone in any manner whatsoever, and the bridge was in use for at least 15 years thereafter.

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Sorry to be ignorant on this subject, but wasn't parchment paper the material of choice for this under the E on the violin bridge some time ago? Maybe it was called 'parchment paper' but was really a drum skin-like material?

(I always felt cool if my repair guy put it on the bridge he fitted for me when I was a student. It made me feel like he thought I was playing a lot and needed some extra special equipment to deal with heavy use. :) Now I realize he was just probably helping me lengthen the life of the cheaper bridge I would have to choose on my budget at the time)

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I find the precut pieces that Paul W. sells (previously mentioned) to be the perfect size and comes in many thicknesses.

A little trick for putting it on...place the parchment on a piece of scotch tape then put a drop of CA glue on the parchment. You can now position one side accurately on the bridge and then fold over the other side. The tape will hold it in place while the glue dries and then pulls off cleanly.

D

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Vitali Import for the parchment

http://vitaliimport.net/cart/index.php?mai...&cPath=5_12

Bernunzio & Elderly Instruments for calfskin banjo heads

http://bernunzio.com/products/QH9168

http://elderly.com/accessories/cats/BPHC.htm

I like the thin transparent heads best for bridges. I also use a very small drop of super glue on the tip of a needle to apply to calfskin patch.

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Natural one works fine for me so I've never worried about synthetic.

BTW just if someone asks, I cut the parchment from the vellum, then soak it for a minute or so in cold water, just to let the skin be flexible and then use cianocrylate (super glue) to stick it. Works fine for me.

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A little trick for putting it on...place the parchment on a piece of scotch tape then put a drop of CA glue on the parchment. You can now position one side accurately on the bridge and then fold over the other side. The tape will hold it in place while the glue dries and then pulls off cleanly.

I will have to try this. Do you soften it with moisture first?

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A little trick for putting it on...place the parchment on a piece of scotch tape then put a drop of CA glue on the parchment. You can now position one side accurately on the bridge and then fold over the other side. The tape will hold it in place while the glue dries and then pulls off cleanly.

D

Clever. Will try that next time.

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