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The making of OPUS-1


PeSt

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When making my first violin (the result can be seen here), I took lots of pictures and making them here available is maybe of some interest and help for other makers as I learned myself lots from looking at these kind of pictures.

The Violin is based on the P form and I used walnut as Stradivari did as I hate plywood. I also learned the hard way that shaping the corner blocks is important as they influence the finished corners.

I hope you enjoy them. Cheers, Peter

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Violin5.JPG

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Violin7.JPG

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Setting up was the last thing to do which is an art in its own, but fortunately Michael Darnton's text on setting up violins was of great help.

Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions and many thanks for looking this far.

Cheers, Peter

ViolinFull.jpg

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And this is the workbench I made before I started the violin. With a weight of 300kg, this bench doesn't butch! The top is 150mm thick Jarra and the legs are old redgum stumps from our house. The rest is vic ash. I found the patternmaker vice a great asset on this bench.

Bench-1.JPG

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I feel like there are more and more new makers popping up with posts and pictures of their #1s these days. Time to start a blog! :)

Nice clean process... looks good... textbook tools for your number one. Looks like you've invested a lot in this.

It's interesting that so many people make the same cuts when carving their first scroll... never looks quite as elegant as it could. In the image comparison the newly carved turns don't create a bell shape like the original... result... feels square and thick. I'm reaching to find something to critique... so very good!

The back plate looks thick (might be the edge work)?

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Peter,

Wonderful photographic story line. I love that you made that fine bench first and it is obvious you have studied and absorbed much from the books and forums. What are those shorter gouges you were using?

I think the clamp set you are using may make it more difficult to glue- as compared to the individual clamps. There is more control with the individual set.

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I have welded for three years, even taught black smithing for a year at a boyscout camp. I would always GLADLY pass on the woodworking projects to my partner in crime (from cricket bat to cedar shingles), and I would GLADLY take all the metal projects (from nails to full roasting spits). Metal and I get a long much better, since everything moves slower, it's much harder to screw up, that and the whole blowout with grain and the like isn't nearly as important as with wood. Shortly put, I don't like splinters.

But, with both material mediums, I have always admired the progress and skill in each.

Looking at such detailed progress, makes me very much wish to invest into some more intricate wood working tools, currently my collection consists of tools from the 1800's made for much larger projects and cutting down trees. Small for me would be the 2 1/2" wide cabinetry chisel. What can I say? I like old things, restored, and put back into use.

I liked seeing your bench, quite tidy. If we could, I would ask to see the layout of the tools used in this awesome project, just to see, for once, what it really takes to make such a non-linear project.

Thank you very much for posting, it has been a great pleasure to enjoy another artisan's work, if only just visually.

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Bloody great stuff, really impressed Peter.

Brill photos with the exception of a few wide angle distortion shots, or perhaps that was just for fun.

The attention to process in your making is superb, IMHO.

That really stands you in good stead and already you're doing great work.

I particulalrly like your scroll work and arching, a bold scroll and very nicely cut.

Not sure I'd purfle in the same way but whatever works for you.

Your label is good enough but perhaps 'hand hade' is obvious with your quality of work.

Your elastic band rib clamping method is what I use too, thought I was the only one....nice one !

Oh, and your bench is top notch, the patternamker's vice is perfect, I've always wanted one like that.

Time to pull my socks up. :)

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Thank you all for you comments.

It's interesting that so many people make the same cuts when carving their first scroll... never looks quite as elegant as it could. In the image comparison the newly carved turns don't create a bell shape like the original... result... feels square and thick. I'm reaching to find something to critique... so very good!

You are certainly right, but a beginner has to start somewhere and normally takes the save rout! And yes, my scroll does look square and thick compared to the Strad scroll (but It does look a bit better on the finished violin as I noticed the lacking bell shape). At least I have something to improve the next time :) But thank you to point it out.

The back plate looks thick (might be the edge work)?

As COB3 pointed out, the finished violin is only 390g. The back plate's thickness is very close to the thickness chart on the Titian poster - 4.4mm between the c-bouts, 2.6mm on the upper-bout and 2.2mm on the lower-bout and the plate is exactly 100g which I belief is spot on for a Strad inspired plate.

Loved your organization, your bench

Well, you only see half of the bench on the pictures and don't ask how the other half looked like...

Not sure I'd purfle in the same way but whatever works for you.

Yes, cutting the purfling groove was a bit of a struggle. I cut it first on the maple plate, but found it very hard going using a knife after I marked it. I then done it Stradivari's way in using a blade in the purfling market making one cut a time. This worked a bit better but I found it hard to stop the blade from wander. I done it the traditional way on the top plate and it worked well on spruce.

Your elastic band rib clamping method is what I use too, thought I was the only one....nice one !

Doesn't the saying go "great minds think alike" :)

Bowler Hat, I am a bit of a tool junkie and I feel that good tools are an investment for a lifetime. My planes are Australian HNT Gordon planes which have a 6mm thick iron which is great for figured wood. All my gauges are from DASTRA in Germany with the "violin maker" handle which I found very nice to use.

But the most valuable tool after my workbench has to be the bogaro & clemente plate holder with ball clamp which made the task of working on plates so much easier.

Cheers, Peter

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But the most valuable tool after my workbench has to be the bogaro & clemente plate holder with ball clamp which made the task of working on plates so much easier.

Cheers, Peter

Those ball clamp things are very useful. Dick do one for a fraction of the price of the B&C one. Not as elegant, but just as functional.

Dick Ball Clamp

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John, I didn't know about the ball clamp from Dick. But I prefer the bogaro & clemente ball clamp for two reasons. First, the ball is much larger and therefore providing more friction when locking so it won't budge when carving around the upper and lower region. But second and most important, the bogaro & clemente ball clamp is using only one locking leaver which is long enough to easily reach it for speedy adjustment - and I did this a lot. The Dick devise with the two leavers looks more cumbersome as they will be obstructed by the plate holder - but as I haven't used the Dick clamp, I could be wrong. Is anybody using it?

Cheers, Peter

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  • 4 weeks later...
When making my first violin (the result can be seen here), I took lots of pictures and making them here available is maybe of some interest and help for other makers as I learned myself lots from looking at these kind of pictures.

The Violin is based on the P form and I used walnut as Stradivari did as I hate plywood. I also learned the hard way that shaping the corner blocks is important as they influence the finished corners.I hope you enjoy them. Cheers, Peter

... .

Violin7.JPG

Very nice workmanship on the garland. Reminds me a bit of what I try to do.

Neophyte MN'ers take note: I deleted the photos I was not referring to so as to not clog up the thread. So should you! Please be sensible and get with the program.

Mike

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