violins88 Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Mr. Liu, I would be interested in construction details of your handmade block plane. Does it perform well? It looks more like a scraper plane. block plane Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewNewbie Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Nice looking plane! Thanks for the heads-up! I always like seeing nice tools! Looks like the mouth can be tightened up with a wooden addition, in-front of the blade. Bevel up or bevel down? Bevel up would be a scraper action. Bevel down would give a shaving with a steep York pitch attack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBurns Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Very nice plane indeed. I wonder what the dimensions are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Liu Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Thank you very much. I use it for planing bow sticks, mostly bevel down to have a small mouth openning. It can also be used bevel up as a scraper plane. I will have to measure it for the dimensions. The blade is a high speed steel blade from HNT Gordon in Australia. The body is Gabon ebony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Liu Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Ok. I got a chance to measure it. The ebony body is 4 1/2" long, 1 3/4" wide and 27mm high. The blade bed angle is 60 degrees, and the angle of the rosewood mouth opening adjuster piece is at 50 degrees. The blade is 29.5 mm wide almost 3mm thick, and 64mm long. The hard maple wedge is 8mm hick and the brass dowel is 1/4" dia. The body can be made from two pieces of wood with the two beds sandwiched by the two flanks like the HNT Gordon kit at http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodcatblockkit.htm The rosewood piece is held by two cap screws threaded into the ebony body. The rosewood piece also has two vertical slots to enable it to slide up and down. I put a bevel at the of the piece so when the mouth edge is worn, the piece can be moved down to have a tighter openning. The raised back end of the ebony body was added by gluing a piece of ebony for a striking surface for the hammer to adjust blade depth. It was a fun and very useful plane to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewNewbie Posted October 15, 2009 Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Thanks for the information. Do you know what angle you sharpened the blade at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violins88 Posted October 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2009 Joseph, Thanks for taking the time to do the measurements. JOhn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Liu Posted October 16, 2009 Report Share Posted October 16, 2009 John: You are welcome! NewNewbie: I sharpen the blade at a 30 degree angle. For this plane and this blade material, it works quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atomino Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi Joseph. Thank you for sharing the infos. Can you explain please how does the mouth regulation work? Grazie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Liu Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi Atomino, The mouth is not an instantly "adjustable' one. But you can change the opening width by changing the thickness of the rosewood piece in the picture. The thickness of the rosewood piece can go from the 0 to all the way to the blade. I made mine by planing the piece so it touches the blade tip when I put it in its bed, then I bevel the side facing the blade so the opening is less about 1 mm. If I want it smaller, I slide the picec down a little. Then trim the part that sticks out from the sole of the plane by filing and sanding. Sorry if the explanation is not clear. It would be easier if I could draw it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewNewbie Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 John: You are welcome!NewNewbie: I sharpen the blade at a 30 degree angle. For this plane and this blade material, it works quite well. Thanks. I see that the 60 degree bed angle of the plane, plus the 30 degree blade with the Bevel Up will give a total of 90 degrees, which is a scraping action! Very handy. A tight mouth helps to reduce tear-out in curly, wild grain woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atomino Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Sorry if the explanation is not clear. It would be easier if I could draw it for you. Crystal Clear. Thank you Joseph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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