msheald Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 Hello! I'm ready to thickness the backplate of my violin. When I obtained the thickness dimensions of the plate, the numbers were presented as applying to specific points on the plate. The diagram was presented as if the plate were flat and two dimensional rather than three dimensional. Are the thickness dimensions taken perpendicular to the flat surface or perpendicular to the arch? This would be most important around the middle of the violin with the middle arch being of a much smaller radius than other parts of the violin. I presume that the thickness numbers are supposed to be measured perpendicular to the arch. If this is so, how would one determine the length of the drill guide holes since these would be drilled perpendicular to the flat surface? I could use trigonometry, but each point would have a different angle that would need to be used to translate the arch perpendicular line to the flat surface perpendicular line. Thank you for your help. Best regards. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anders Buen Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 Hello! I'm ready to thickness the backplate of my violin. When I obtained the thickness dimensions of the plate, the numbers were presented as applying to specific points on the plate. The diagram was presented as if the plate were flat and two dimensional rather than three dimensional. Are the thickness dimensions taken perpendicular to the flat surface or perpendicular to the arch? This would be most important around the middle of the violin with the middle arch being of a much smaller radius than other parts of the violin. I presume that the thickness numbers are supposed to be measured perpendicular to the arch. If this is so, how would one determine the length of the drill guide holes since these would be drilled perpendicular to the flat surface? I could use trigonometry, but each point would have a different angle that would need to be used to translate the arch perpendicular line to the flat surface perpendicular line. Thank you for your help. Best regards. Mike I think you can regard them as being perpendicular to the arch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarylG Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 Just drill the holes perpendicular to the arch. I use a board that mounts on the drill press with a dowel that sticks up about an inch and has some cork on the tip. That way you can tilt the plate however you need to. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCHungerpiller Posted May 23, 2009 Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 And perhaps (if) you decide to use the drill, do so to ony get in the rough general vacinity of the thickness you are looking for. There is value, especially if this is #1, to using the tools (gouge, planes, scapers) to take off wood for the sake of learning to use the tools. I wouldn't want to only have 1mm or so left to go when I first put (hand) tool to wood, then go too deep (it can be super surprising how quickly one gets thin) or learn whoa...when I cut "this way" things (hunks bigger than 1mm) tear out. Good luck and have fun. It is very cool when the plate starts to sound. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poetinwood Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 Flatten the inside, carve the outside....THEN you won't need the trig, the back will adjust to perpendicular in relation to the arch as you drill on the inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DBurns Posted May 28, 2009 Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 This Blog might be helpful. Zak Moen posts here so perhaps a PM will help you. Drilling Out Plates in Zak Moen's Blog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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