String afterlength problem?

[polkat]

What is considered the proper string afterlength (bridge to tailpiece nut) for a full size violin, and can a too short afterlength (in this case 50mm) cause tone problems? Thanks!

[MANFIO]

50 mm is not all that too short. If it's too short the volume may be too low, but it will depend on the instrument, on the player, and on the luthier who made the set up. It may be the instrument is quite light in construction so that 50 mm may be good for it.

I use between 55 and 60 mm. If you move the tailpiece North, the sound will get more sweet but the volume may suffer and the instrument may loose its edge, if you move it South you will get more edge, a more open sound, and loose some complexity.

[Bernie R]

50 mm is not all that too short. If it's too short the volume may be too low.

I have seen a discussion of tuning the string afterlength so that the afterlength on the A string (for example) produces an E.

My fiddle has an afterlength of 50 mm, and the afterlength when plucked gives a very sharp F. There's certainly no problem with low volume.

I'd be very interested to see comments from experienced setters-up about the tuning of the afterlength.

[MANFIO]

Some will give a string afterlength that is 1/6 of the vibrating string, in general it will be around 55 mm. I don't do any tuning, if I want the instrument more aggressive I move it south and vice versa.

If you have no complains about the sound leave it as it is.

[polkat]

This is an old American made violin from the late 18th century that was given to me in very damaged condition. I restored it and the sound is nice but volume is low and there is some ringing on fingered notes in lower positions, especially the E. After repairs I checked the stop length, neck length, neck angle, string angle, etc. and all was well. The after length is the only culpret, and I can easily change that. So 55-60mm is considered the average?

[Oded Kishony]

The 'rule of thumb' for setting the after length is to divide the vibrating string length by 6. Measure from nut to bridge then divide by 6-that should be your after string length.

Personally I haven't found that after string tuning schemes do much of anything.

Oded

[Ken Pollard]

In addition to the afterlength concerns, or perhaps I should say maybe more importantly, is the weight of the tailpiece. If you have a heavy one, try a lighter one, and vice-versa.

The traditional fiddle set-up around here has been a big ebony tailpiece with 4 heavy fine-tuners. I have noticed differences when swapping these for, say, a composite Wittner with integral tuners.

Not always a good change -- sometimes a heavier tailpiece can take some of the edge off a too-shrill violin.

Just something else to consider.

Ken

[polkat]

I use the Precision geared pegs and have no fine tuners on a standard ebony tailpiece. I am not aware if these tailpieces come in different weights. Hummm...do they?

[Ken Pollard]

I use the Precision geared pegs and have no fine tuners on a standard ebony tailpiece. I am not aware if these tailpieces come in different weights. Hummm...do they?

Wittner also makes, or made, a traditional (non-integral fine-tuner) tailpiece, of composite material, that had an adjustable screw system near the tail-gut. Came with a little screwdriver, so you could adjust the afterlength a few millimeters without taking the tailpiece off. "Multi-system" was what they called them. I got a few by mistake in an order, and haven't really found much use for them.

I believe they're a little lighter than ebony, though with the extra adjustment screw and plate, it's not as much.

There are, of course, cheap plastic tailpieces, very light, to try as an experiment. It's all in messing about with the instrument you have at hand.