polkat Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 I posted this on another site but thought I'd try here as well. I want to fix a bad violin repair done with epoxy (not by me). In fact, I'm pretty sure its J B Weld, as it has a medium shiny grey surface. What can I use to break down the epoxy so I can repair it with hide? Heat? Alcohol? Chemical? Thanks!
Bill Yacey Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 I posted this on another site but thought I'd try here as well. I want to fix a bad violin repair done with epoxy (not by me). In fact, I'm pretty sure its J B Weld, as it has a medium shiny grey surface. What can I use to break down the epoxy so I can repair it with hide? Heat? Alcohol? Chemical? Thanks! Dimethyl Formamide, but it's bad stuff. wear a chemical respirator , gloves, goggles etc. Oh, it works much better when the DMF is heated. The epoxy turns rubbery and stringy and can be peeled away with tweezers. I can't say what it will do to varnish though.
fiddlecollector Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 Dimethyl Formamide, but it's bad stuff. wear a chemical respirator , gloves, goggles etc. I was going to say DMSO(dimethyl sulphoxide),its far less toxic than Dimethyl Formamide.But on no account get it anywhere near the skin as it can absorb right through it in a matter of minutes and take any other chemical with it.Its hazardess to eyes as well.Its a very effective solvent ,even used for removing paint from aircraft.In all honesty though i WOULDNT recommend either of the chemicals mentioned unless you know what your doing.
troutabout Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 It takes somewhere around 246 degrees to soften most epoxy glues. The wood will survive but the finish may not.
C.B.Fiddler Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 I'm not sure if these epoxy solvents will work on J.B. Weld. You may want to call JB Weld and ask them what to use. (Dear Lord, who would use this stuff on a violin? )
~ Ben Conover Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 (Dear Lord, who would use this stuff on a violin? Hi CB, when I was working for Nigel Harris a long time ago, he used araldite epoxy for fliing a mistake he made... At Newark we only ever used hide glue and occassionaly super glue for sticking the small E string protector on the bridge. Needless to say, I would never use epoxy it but it seems that a few self taught makers such as Harris, learn the hard way. Polkat, can you just cut away the resin and a small amount of the wood then replace it with hide glue and wood ? Good luck.
FiddleDoug Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 Acetone will also soften most epoxies, and is much less toxic that the previously mentioned solvents. Unfortunately, it will also remove the finish. A small piece of paper towel on the area, saturated with acetone, and covered with a small piece of plastic to slow down evaporation may work. Let us know how you make out.
Ken Pollard Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 Not knowing where the epoxy(?) is at, this may or may not be useful. When I've run across it in a seam repair, I've had some luck by sliding a flexible palette knife against the epoxy, applying heat to the knife, away from the instrument, and slowly melting thru the 'repair'. It's a slow process. Ken
Janito Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 I used the slow set J-B Weld epoxy to repair a teapot recently because the product description indicated it was heat stable to 500 deg, or thereabouts. I am thinking that the previous repairer may have used some initiative along the lines of... violin -> wood -> 'Liquid Nails'. Viola. ---------------- Later... Found this tech info on J-B Weld: http://www.jbweld.net/techinfo/JB%20Weld-E...night-48009.pdf And Liquid Nails: http://www.duspec.com/DuSpec2/product/Prod...cumentType=msds
troutabout Posted August 2, 2008 Report Posted August 2, 2008 " FLASH POINT: >200°F/ 93°C Seta Flash Closed cup " That's lower than I would have thought....
C.B.Fiddler Posted August 3, 2008 Report Posted August 3, 2008 Ben, My vln maker/teacher once spent year removing a bass bar made of a 2x4 from a VERY fine bass. The previous "luthier" had coated the entire top plate with epoxy and shoved the 2x4 bass bar into the muck. He tried to refuse the job, but he was working for a great shop and the customer was a rather influential player with a very abused but important instrument. He agreed to do it, but at his own pace... The funny part was that the owner claimed that the bass sounded better after he took it to the "luthier" for bass bar replacement. Ridiculous...
polkat Posted August 3, 2008 Author Report Posted August 3, 2008 Thanks guys. Lots of good info here. I'll choose an attack and let all know how it comes out (the epoxy I mean).
Jayfez Posted August 8, 2008 Report Posted August 8, 2008 Something I heard a long time ago was that pineapple juice will take off epoxy. Never got around to trying it.
Johnmasters Posted August 8, 2008 Report Posted August 8, 2008 Something I heard a long time ago was that pineapple juice will take off epoxy. Never got around to trying it. W. C. Fields once said, "Hey, someone put pineapple juice in my 'pineapple juice'."
PASEWICZ Posted August 8, 2008 Report Posted August 8, 2008 I posted this on another site but thought I'd try here as well. I want to fix a bad violin repair done with epoxy (not by me). In fact, I'm pretty sure its J B Weld, as it has a medium shiny grey surface. What can I use to break down the epoxy so I can repair it with hide? Heat? Alcohol? Chemical? Thanks! Polkat The company to get in contact wih is Dynaloy, INC.. They specialize in products that remove epoxies, urethanes, silicones, etc.. I use their Dynasolve 165 if I need to dissolve the epoxy I use, but they have different chemicals for different uses. Dynaloy 800-669-5709
troop471 Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) I used some epoxy for an interior suface in my car. Are there any of these methods that won't cause more damage to that by removing? IE, if I use chemicals will it further damage the surface? It is your standard, slippery interior car surface. Not sure exactly what it's made of, but nothing ever sticks to it without serious glue. I thought about the heat gun, but that would seem to cause more damage just to remove this item, which is already glued to the car surface. Please advise n Thanks. Jon Edited February 5, 2019 by troop471 Additional info
Don Noon Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 On 8/1/2008 at 8:58 PM, polkat said: I'm pretty sure its J B Weld, as it has a medium shiny grey surface. What can I use to break down the epoxy so I can repair it with hide? Heat? Alcohol? Chemical? On 8/2/2008 at 12:58 PM, Janito said: I used the slow set J-B Weld epoxy to repair a teapot recently because the product description indicated it was heat stable to 500 deg, or thereabouts. I was initially skeptical of the 500F survival temperature (some time in the past I had a lot of difficulty finding a high-temperature epoxy that was available to the general public). But the manufacturer does state it's able to live for some time at 550F. Then, there's this: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured? When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600º maximum temperature threshold.
barnesviolins Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 On 8/7/2008 at 8:11 PM, Jerry Pasewicz said: Polkat The company to get in contact wih is Dynaloy, INC.. They specialize in products that remove epoxies, urethanes, silicones, etc.. I use their Dynasolve 165 if I need to dissolve the epoxy I use, but they have different chemicals for different uses. Dynaloy 800-669-5709 Looks like this might be the current replacement for the 165?....... https://www.versummaterials.com/product/dynasolve-185-amine-cured-epoxy-cleaning-solvent/ Anybody want to go in on a quart? $240 a bottle plus shipping. I bet a qt would last 10 people a few years! Dorian
Pate Bliss Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 2 hours ago, Don Noon said: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured? When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600º maximum temperature threshold. That kind of reads like ad copy for a consumer product. Some chemical is bound to attack it... If it was regular epoxy, moderate heat will turn it to jelly. J.B. doesn't do that though.
The Violin Beautiful Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 I had a cello in the shop recently that had been “repaired” with epoxy. Fortunately for me only the fingerboard had been glued with it and it had popped off. I think it was JB Weld, but I’m not familiar enough with it to be sure. In any case I was able to get rid of it by heating it with a small torch. I wasn’t working on an area that had varnish so there was less concern about the heat. It softened enough that I could scrape it off. I wouldn’t recommend doing that in any sensitive varnish areas.
duane88 Posted February 4, 2019 Report Posted February 4, 2019 Last time I ran into a fb that was glued on with epoxy I used the orig. board as the ebony wedge to correct the neck angle, although I did mention that the next correction of the neck would involve a neck graft.
Violadamore Posted February 5, 2019 Report Posted February 5, 2019 19 hours ago, Don Noon said: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?
edi malinaric Posted February 5, 2019 Report Posted February 5, 2019 3 hours ago, Violadamore said: Mmmm - is this the capsule where they used violas as an ablative coating? cheers edi
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