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C.B.Fiddler

Ibex Iron Mods

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I learned how to bend ribs on my violin makers 30 yr old custom made steel goliath. Since buying the Ibex, I have had difficulty - not just with the user-unfriendly shape, but with how the general design differs from what I learned with.

I decided to adust it so that I may use it horizontally. I relocated the switch to the bottom, used model wood to plug the 2.5" switch hole, and drilled out an additional clamp hole.

Here's what I learned on:

KIron.jpg

Here are my adjustments:

Picture112.jpg

Picture111.jpg

Ibex pics for those who want to know what it looks like apart:

Picture105.jpg

Picture108.jpg

Picture109.jpg

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Is the box really made as it appears, from a single block of wood, hollowed-out? That's interesting.

Wow, they really don't use much aluminum in those, do they? And from the charring on the box top, it does look as if they could use a bit more of a heat barrier...

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Thanks, Manfio!

Tim,

I was hoping you'd see that - I took that picture for you after reading your current thread. The next project will be what you're doing, but it may be a while before I start that. I do have the benefit of a bench sander when I tackle it though!

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I imagine that, for those who don't like the IBEX shape, it's ease to attach a metal or aluminium piece with a different shape to the IBEX iron.

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Yes, I use it for my violins too, the ribs on the C bouts of Del Gesù violins have no tight curves in general. Do you use a metal back strip? It's essential using one for bending ribs.

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What DG model would like to use? I'm thinking about making a Lord Wilton but I don't know if I will have time to make it since I have too many violas to make...

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I should probably stick to what I'm doing for a while (strad pattern) until I get a few fiddles made. After that, I agree with your preference for the Lord Wilton.

What DG pattern do you currently use?

LordWilton1742GDG.jpg

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I've made many Cannone models... I find it quite a nice model, I particularly like the basses and the power reserve, but requires the proper player to make it sound...

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quote:


Originally posted by:
MANFIO

I imagine that, for those who don't like the IBEX shape, it's ease to attach a metal or aluminium piece with a different shape to the IBEX iron.

It is.

I'm surprized by the charring in that last photo.

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Hi Matt,

It surprised me too. Particularly because I have had it less than a year and it has been used rather infrequently. Any suggestions on how to improve?

Also, would you be opposed to showing us your modification? I know that Stewart MacDonald offers an iron with a threaded insert that accepts a cylinder for tighter curves. Is this what you use?

Bending_Iron_Detail.jpg

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quote:


Originally posted by:
C.B.Fiddler

I know that Stewart MacDonald offers an iron with a threaded insert that accepts a cylinder for tighter curves. Is this what you use?


I did have that mounted on my Ibex for a while. I had to drill and tap the 1/4-20 threaded hole for it. It helped, but I much prefer my design.

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I have never understood why most pictures of bending irons shown them mounted horizontally.

Unless one is 4ft 8" tall, this is a very inefficient position because the rib is being bent down with 2 legs dropping towards the floor or across with one end below and one above the iron.

I much prefer the iron to be veritcal and bend the 2 ends of the rib towards the body - one moves around around the iron, as necessary, to achieve the appropriate curves.

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quote:


Originally posted by: Janito

I have never understood why most pictures of bending irons shown them mounted horizontally.

q]

You have a good point regarding the height, but I still like it horizontal. I positioned my iron so that the rib is bent parallel to the floor - as my teacher's is - not perpendicular as the Stew-Mac pic shows.

Matt,

Sorry to make you repeat yourself - I remember that thread!

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