Andrew Song Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 My violin has a knack for having a whistling E when I play any 3- or 4-note broken chords. Right now, I'm using a Gold Label E mixed with a set of Tonicas for the rest of the strings, but it's starting to get really irritating... Does anyone have any other E's that are known to whistle a bit less? Thanks
outside Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 You might try giving the slightest bit more pressure, like an unheard accent as you roll. I think it is perhaps more in how the bow is hitting the e string than the string version. I have heard this problem before and I have seen it vanish and there was not a change in strings. You might also check rosin build up on the string and rosin levels on the bow.
jmaj Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 I have found the Goldbrokat to be non-whistling, remarkably so (to me) given that it is an unwound string. Great tone and its cheap to boot. Highly recommended.
oldgeezer Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 The E string whistle has been discussed a lot. It can be a set up issue but some violins are more prone to the problem than others. The simple solution is a non whistling E and the Kaplan solutions E is a good one. Gold plated E strings are notorious for whistling. You can avoid the whistle by giving the E a dig as you cross but I'd look into set up or an E string change if it's a constant annoyance. If it's only broken chords the problem may be that you just aren't hitting the open E hard enough.
mcarufe Posted October 21, 2007 Report Posted October 21, 2007 Also, as matters of technique are concerned, slow bow speed while attacking the E string. Give it a try then groove the speed till it is natural feeling. Mike
Andrew Song Posted October 21, 2007 Author Report Posted October 21, 2007 Thanks for all the suggestions -- the problem isn't exclusively limited to when I do broken chords, but it's less common when I just hit a note on the string. I'm known to play with a "heavy arm", so to speak, so I dont think it's lack of pressure on the string. I'll give all your suggestions a try though. If the problem continues, I'll try a string switch. Again, thanks a lot.
crabtree Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Since you like Tonicas, you might want to try their wound E. Both Tonica E strings are very nice and make the sets a real bargain. The wound E is definitely less prone to whistling.
GMM22 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 From my viewpoint, a whistling E string is rooted somewhere in the setup. While wound E strings might offer a solution, it is masking some other problem.
Andrew Song Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Posted October 23, 2007 quote: it is masking some other problem. Care to elaborate?
GMM22 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Only briefly. The reason I say the problem is in setup is that decent violins that are well set up just do not have the problem of whistling plain E strings, at least none of the violins I own or have worked on. Bridge tuning and soundpost adjustment would be the first places start. A Whistling E string can also be meliorated by keeping it very clean of rosin (and this aspect arguably falls under the heading of hardware or setup issues). There is a simple physical explanation why clean strings sound clean. When you have excessive rosin buildup, the string is literally of a different mass along its length. Enharmonic vibration can result. Using good rosin on clean hair can also help. If the bow hair is contaminated, the normal slip/stick cycle is broken and whistling can result.
GMM22 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Bridges that are very thin at the top just under the E have a propensity to whistle more easily. You also might have more success with a plain E. I was once under the spell of Gold E strings, but the truth is the actual gold contributes nothing to the tensile strength of the string and only adds dead mass (and perhaps a different friction coefficient). They look neat, but I like the sound of a good plain E better. You would also do well to experiment with bow pressure, position relative to the bridge, and stroke velocity, as these things contribute to a good bow/string coupling.
Andrew Song Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Posted October 23, 2007 I'm pretty sure it's not any of those problems. My bridge got re-done about two months ago (and the luthier did a good job), but the problem still poked around then (albeit a bit less frequently). My e is impeccably clean of rosin as well. My bow hair's about a year old though, and I when I got the bridge re-done, I asked the luthier to look at the soundpost to see if it needed tweaking, and he said it was fine. I'll investigate more though...
GMM22 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Then try another bow. If it ceases with something else, you have a new lead. Maybe your E is too clean Have you mentioned it to the luthier? I would think a good one could solve the problem. Have you had someone else play the violin to see if it is your technique? ----------------------------------------------------------------- "I'm pretty sure it's not any of those problems. My bridge got re-done about two months ago" Did it whistle prior to the new bridge? Did you switch string brands at this time? Had the luthier ever worked on this violin before?
outside Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Here is another suggestion that was used here at one point... make it whistle, try to whistle, roll the chord and let it blow. Try for a consistent whistle. Can you catch the whistle every time? Then work backwards. Here it ended up being a slight change in the roll style, pressure/ speed. As I recall the spot where the whistle occurred most regularly was marked with the initials of the one credited with a solution as a reminder to I believe slow the bow and just give a tad more pressure there.
Janito Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 I've heard the whistle being attributed to 'abnormal' rotational vibration of the E string, so another place to check is the nut. If the channel is a little too large for the string, it may allow it to twist abnormally when played as an open string. Do you have the string going through a fat tube to protect the bridge? This may also be a contributor, for the same reason as above. Get a parchment patch instead.
Andrew Song Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Posted October 23, 2007 quote: Do you have the string going through a fat tube to protect the bridge? This may also be a contributor, for the same reason as above. Get a parchment patch instead I have the 'fat tube' on, but only because I cant (read: dont know how) to get it off the string (I have a parchment patch on my bridge as well).
Janito Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Loosen the E string and pull the tube back towards the tailpiece. Wedge it carefully over the thread to stop it moving. Repeat the whistling test (string not oral!!).
DocFidlStix Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 As a fiddler who's been dogged by e-whistles for years, I've found the biggest single source of my whistles is a light, accidental touch of my fingers on the (usually open) e. When I take care to keep my non-stopping fingers clear of the e, my ears are hardly ever assaulted by a whistle. I suspect that light touch damps the e-string near the nut just enough to encourage the torsional vibration that's behind most whistles.
Andrew Song Posted October 23, 2007 Author Report Posted October 23, 2007 Janito: I tried that for a while, but the thing would just come loose and start vibrating whenever I played anything that resonated with that portion of the string. Is there any way to get it completely off? Off-off?
GMM22 Posted October 23, 2007 Report Posted October 23, 2007 Carefully cut it off with an exacto knife. It is very easy to do.
Marie Brown Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 My experience is that string failure is most likely to occur on a full-power slur from a note on the A to the open E. There is no perfect cure, but I'll say "ditto" to the squeak-and-toss idea. It's been saving my ears lately. A Goldbrokat steel E is currently listed at $1.51. With a little research, you can get them in different gauges and experiment to your heart's delight.
Steve_W Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 The consensus here seems to be that wound E strings may be the lazy player's solution to curing this issue but they work well for getting rid of the whistle. I don't think anybody has mentioned the Pirastro No. 1 E, which is my current favorite. Quick break-in, works with a wide range of string sets. I've used the Kaplan Solutions successfully however find that it seems to have a longer break-in period; the last one I put on seemed harsh-sounding for at least a couple weeks (with Infeld Reds), and I would have swapped it out if I'd had the time between performances to break in a new string. When I was finally ready to get rid of it, I realized it was blending well with the set, so I've left it on!
Hank Schutz Posted October 24, 2007 Report Posted October 24, 2007 My experience has been that thick (stark) gauge E strings are less prone to whistling. HS
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