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Cracks on stick above frog


HSGNOTES
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Actually not, Michael. I sent the bow in perfect condition about 10

days ago. It took over a week to get to Canada. So the cracks

developed within the last 2 days. The receiver said the frog did

not fit into the mortise without some force. Photo is of the 2nd

crack on other side of the mortise.

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Well, he claimed his archetier thought the short bow hair caused

the problem by pulling excessively on the eyelet. Of course, if the

guy saw that the frog didn't fit in the mortise, why did he force

it? Anyway, do you think such cracks can be repaired without

altering the playing characteristics of the stick? Is the bow now

less valuable?

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The picture is out of focus making it impossible for me to see how fresh and clean the crack is. Someone is not telling the truth, here. Perhaps the bow was damaged in shipment which means you can file a claim to the shipper. There is the possibility that the shop doing the rehair is also telling a fib.

If a shop is competant, they will be able to repair it without you being able to tell that it was ever cracked--basically, you clamp it closed if it is a clean break and run superglue into it, followed by a sharp scrapper to remove the extra glue on the surface, and then a quick french polish. It can be repaired as good as new.

I would be reluctant to return to the shop that did the rehair.

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Easy to repair,depending how old the crack is and if it is old whether or not there is any oil or other nasties in the crack ,from people lubricating the adjuster screw and eyelet. Most damage i see like this is caused by someone trying to unscrew a seazed adjuster ,without knowing what they,re doing .

I doubt very much it was caused by tight hair or expansion of the eyelet. Ive sent bows from the UK to New Mexico, which i have found has shrunk the hair by up a great amount due to the huge humidity difference.But never has the stick cracked anywhere.

Its entirely possible that these are old cracks or a mixture of reopened old cracks and some new splitting(there is certainly dirt in parts of the cracks).They are often invisible and only open under force of some kind.They could possibly reopen if the hair has shrunk considerably and the back of the frog seating has lifted causing the screw to put pressure on the stick(usually when the hole in the stick has considerable wear).

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quote:


Originally posted by:
Mike_Danielson
. If a shop

is competant, they will be able to repair it without you being able

to tell that it was ever cracked--basically, you clamp it closed if

it is a clean break and run superglue into it, .

Mike,  uperglue is not often the best choice for a structural

repair, even though many folks use it and some books recommend it.

 I  have several books that warn of superglues short

working life. It can let go in as little as 5 years, under bad

conditions. I recommend only using it for cosmetic

work,  nick filling, etc and deep thin cracks where it's

impossible to get pva glue inside.  

I suppose this particular break could be considered cosmetic, since

it won't be under much stress, but it would be just as easy to use

diluted pva, and the result would be much more permanent (assuming

it were properly cleaned first.)

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Creep?  Are we talking about the same type of glue?

I don't know what "emulsion" glue is, never heard that term before.

 I'm talking about pva glue, like Titebond.  I've never

seen it creep, never heard of it creeping.  Do you mean

polyurethane glue, like Gorilla?  I've seen that creep.

True, most pva's are not 100% waterproof, (except for Titebond III)

so sweat MIGHT affect it just on the surface, but wouldn't a few

coats of shellac take care of that?

In any case, what glue WOULD you use for this repair?  Perhaps

pva inside, with a light coat of something else on top?

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