• Announcements

    • ghunt

      Whole Site SSL   03/08/17

      Whole site SSL is now turned on and forced for all pages on Maestronet. If you have any problems, please contact the admin team.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Dean_Lapinel

Purfling/bee sting knife pic

22 posts in this topic

Thanks to a fine Luthier friend of mine I now own two fine handmade knives. They work wonderfully!

Really nice design and feel to these.

Sorry but for reasons of privacy I am not allowed to mention the maker but this gentleman is a star!img0788edited7dq.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Most intriguing Dean. Tell us more about how they work for you! Are there any details besides the edge shape and orientation which explain their success?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:


Originally posted by:
Dean_Lapinel

In trying all my knives on spruce and hardwood I found (as many do) that the slight curvature of this blade glides through spruce as if it is butter.

This must explain why I have seen some makers' purfling markers with rounded blades. I must try that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A convex edge cuts better than a straight edge with a pointed tip, also the pointed tip will break more easily. I hold the handle of my purfling knife in the palm and place the thumb at the end of the handle like holding a dagger and carve that way particularly on maple back. Hold it like a pencil and the blade edge at front for cutting sound hole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:


Originally posted by:
Dean_Lapinel

this gentleman is a star!

He gave me one too, and for those who were interested here is a shot of the blade:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd VERY much like to see pictures of bee stings done with this knife. It is not unlike Jeffrey's in shape, whereas I note that nertz and Michael D use rather long pointy knives.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I improvise with "http://www.maestronet.com/forums//include/uploadbox/viewfile.cfm?files=Imagem%20117%2Ejpg"

target="_blank">this cataract surgery scalpel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, as I said it is an improvisation, maybe improper for ones. I

am just starting my third instrument, so I have more ideas then

good tools.

This "http://www.maestronet.com/forums//include/uploadbox/viewfile.cfm?files=Imagem%20117%2Ejpg"

target="_blank">blade is thin, 5mm short and very very

flexible. It never breaks, but folds. I know I have to improve my

tools.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Dean, Those knives are nice, but they just look fine for painting by numbers to me. I feel the best curves are cut with a slighlty longer curved pointed knife that allows one to sculpt a line. .....Too many people get fixated on Strad purfling....Look at Nicolo & the Bros Amati because that's what Strad was referencing. Judging and cutting the purfling & corners should be done in seconds and the right tool will help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Melving! Good point. I'm not a StradCentrist...

Since I'm with the Guarneri family for my violins and violas, I can use my beatle blunt sting knife...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:


Originally posted by:
Andres Sender

I'd VERY much like to see pictures of bee stings done with this knife. It is not unlike Jeffrey's in shape, whereas I note that nertz and Michael D use rather long pointy knives.


Actually, I think if you check the old photos you'll see that although the knife I use is curved, it has a longer "point" than the one Dean now has. The curve doesn't swing as wide until after the cutting surface has ended... but Dean's knife looks very nice (beautiful design) and I'm sure works quite well once you figure it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also note that Dean has two knives pictured, one of which is much smaller than the other, mine being the same as the larger one in Dean's picture.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, is that bade made from hammered steel round stock?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:


Originally posted by:
ctviolin

Out of curiosity, is that bade made from hammered steel round stock?

"It is made of 1.2% carbon steel and hardened to RC 64 to keep a sharp edge" is what the maker told me. I also just re-read (in my PM folder) that the knife I was given is NOT the beesting knife, that is the smaller one in Dean's picture. Still can't wait to use it though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think those knives need some modification to improve their abilities. First, I would carve away some of the wood near the steel end so that you can see the blade doing its work--the wood shields the work. I would start about 1.5 cm back from where the steel meets handle and taper the wood until it meets the steel. This is a matter of individual taste on how you want to adjust the wood.

Secondly, you really want a straight knive rather than a highly curved one because you are trying to drive it into some tough wood (maple); so you need a sharp point which will penetrate better since the forces are greater with a point compared to a curved edge.

Finally, what is this fixation with hardness? Rockwell 64 is too hard and makes for a brittle point which will break. This is the one place I have found the Pfeil steel knife blanks to be as advertised, and they are Rockwell 59-60. Pfeil knife blanks are cheap, readily available, and make good purfling knives. You can easily make a handle for them--I always choose a pretty wood.

I never lose sight of the fact that tools are made to be used--they have a job to do; so I fearlessly modify them as needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

quote:


Originally posted by:
Mike_Danielson

Secondly, you really want a straight knive rather than a highly curved one because you are trying to drive it into some tough wood (maple); so you need a sharp point which will penetrate better since the forces are greater with a point compared to a curved edge.


I'm not sure I agree with you about the "straight" part, Mike... but I suppose it might depend on what you mean by "straight". I do agree with the point issue, for myself, but I prefer a curve from the point... and I don't have any difficulty making it through the maple in two or three passes.

Here's a link to the previous discussions on purfling knives, complete with pretty pictures.

Purfling knife thread

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's about 9 mm accross at the handle, and it's relatively thin (about 1.5 mm or so before it starts to taper toward the point, which it does starting very near the handle). The bevel isn't flat, it's slightly curved. I use it for cutting both the channel and the sting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.