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Ibex vs German Finger planes?


vlngeek
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I've used both, and prefer the Ibex, and some of my friends prefer the German ones. I don't think there's a big difference--mostly it's just what you're comfortable with. I like the soft edges on the Ibex, but if I had the others, I'd be happy. I would, however, make screw caps instead of using the wooden wedges, which is an easy thing to do.

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I read somewhere that the German finger planes have smaller mouth openings than Ibex planes. However I have found that I can adjust the mouth opening of my ibex planes by simply fitting different thicknesses of card under the blades, in effect elevating the blade upwards and so the cutting edge comes closer to the front of the mouth. The card will be compressed by tightening the screw cap, making it quite solid.

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Let me see if I can get this right from memory: Michael uses a very small round one for the channel, and some middle round ones for blending the inside of the channel with the arching in the c's, and smallish round ones for final work graduating the interior, and a large toothed-blade round one for the center inside of the back where you have to go with the grain. The rest is mostly flat planes for inside and out. How'd I do?

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I use both... but for most jobs I prefer the German style planes. The reason for this is that the oval shape of the Ibex sends the body of the plane further out from the edge of the mouth (for me; limiting access in some cases and restricting the cut in others) and I find that the square-er shape of the German style planes at the end make them feel more stable.

That's just me. As Michael mentioned, some prefer the Ibex, others the German.

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Just a couple of thoughts:

The screw adjust types are a lot easier to control the blade that the wedge types, but that being said, there is a compromsise that might be useful to know about. You can drill and thread a small screw-hole in the wood wedge (so you can insert a screw) and get a combination of the two that improves the behavior over the pure wedge type.

The other thing is that you should feel free to adjust the convex base of the plane for your own purposes. A new, sharp file works very well or the power sander will make short work of the adjustment. This is how you can quickly get that narrow plane that works in the purfling channel. Don't forget--you are the master of the tool--you can make them any way you want.

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quote:


Originally posted by:
Michael Darnton

I very rarely use any toothed blade

I haven't found much of a need for them either. I have them for all the sizes of the Ibex planes I own but have never needed them.

EDIT: Here are some of the Ibex on ebay for a good price, I have the 10mm blade sized one in the mail.

fpZ0">http://search.stores.ebay.com/bezdez_plane

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quote:


Originally posted by:
Salieri

quote:


Originally posted by:
Andres Sender
IV's prices

are better, FWIW.

True, but Matt is located in Canada, and the shipping, taxes and

customs situation might make it a bit cheaper for those in Canada

to buy from Bezdez.

It does. I bought about $70.00 worth of stuff last week from Bezdez and shipping is only costing me $4.00 and I only have to pay one tax.

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quote:


Does anyone know if one can obtain one of these marvels with a tighter radius?

I was able to take the smallest Ibex plane and put quite a convex curve on it. I use it for the purfling channel in the cc's bouts. They say that they make the bottom thick enough to do this. I would check the thickness to make sure though before proceding.

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quote:


Originally posted by:
glad3600

quote:


Does anyone know if one can obtain one of these marvels with a tighter radius?

I was able to take the smallest Ibex plane and put quite a convex curve on it. I use it for the purfling channel in the cc's bouts. They say that they make the bottom thick enough to do this. I would check the thickness to make sure though before proceding.

That's a very clever idea. I ground a scraper to do the channel. I may try your method next.

Mike in NJ

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Yes, I find that the ibex planes are curved mostly in one direction (across their width.) I have had to file and sand mine to make them more convex. glad3600 is right; you must check the thickness of the bottom before doing this. I also find it helps to grind the cutting edge of the blade with a slightly tighter curve, which prevents 'edge lines' when planing.

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quote:

Originally posted by: choo-choo plane Nice. Isn't

it true that the best tools are the ones you make or adapt

slightly? And it's more satisfying to work with them too.

I totally agree! Please check this page on my website to see some

finger planes that I made myself (please scroll down to the third

pic). They work as well as the ones you buy! Sizes vary from half

an inch to two inches.

home made finger planes

(I provided this link because I was unable to put the picture

directly in this message)

One can easily make those planes from copper tube and some copper

sheet material. The blades can be bought or made from an old

saw-blade. Right now I have wooden wedges, but I'm planning to make

metal ones with screw, like the ibex planes.

Right now I adjust the plane by putting it (bottom down) on a piece

of scrap wood , then pushing the blade down till it contacts the

wood. Then I push in the wedge. I then try the plane. If it is not

removing enough wood, I tap on the top of the wedge, or at the top

of the blade (with the metal side of a chisel), till it works

fine.

Geerten

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