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DutchViolins

Resharpening peg hole reamer

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I would have thought that sharpening ones own tools is one of the most important parts of violinmaking.

If i can save money by sharpening and reusing a tool i will, tools are expensive as it is ,let alone books etc... which goes along with it.

I have far more problems with peg shavers than reamers. I could probably have bought one of those expensive ones rather than spending time trying to get my pegshavers to work how i like them to.

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"I wonder if your statement is based on experience"

I learnt this from someone who has done major repair work, on major instruments, for a major firm, for a great deal of years.

I would think that if someone let's the shaft of the reamer come out of plane then anything is possible.

When using a reamer there is a real premium on keeping everything in plane no matter how many cutters.

Let's say you have a peghole that needs to be moved ever so slightly in it's location, so that there is no more rubbing of strings, then you will find it far more easier to do this with 6 blades than 1. Please note: I did not say you can't do it with 1 blade.

"The better the tool, the better the job.....but you have to know how to do the job." :-)

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Frits,

Thank you for starting this thread as most of us are always eager to discuss tools.

We all learn a lot from the various viewpoints expressed on technical subjects which broadens our perspective and knowledge.

The reason I mention this is because MN seems to have drifted away from discussions of tools and their use. It would be helpful to see more posts of a technical nature, even though there may be occasional slight differences of opinion.

just my 2 cents

Jimbow

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I'm a confessed toolaholic and also like an occasional discussion on such. While on the subject of resharpening reamers I thought I would post a pic of my bass /cello endpin reamer with a single replaceable cutter. It is very slow cutting and highly accurate. I made it so it would use disposable Makita power plane blades(4). So actually the cutter is made of four blades.

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quote:


Originally posted by:
PicknBow

Mike in NJ, please send me your old reamers(I will gladly pay shippinng) also anything else you don't sharpen.(please....no x-acto blades or utility knife blades)

Sure, if you include packaging and handling to cover my time and costs. But don't hold your breath. It will be several years before this reamer gets dull.

BTW, how many reamers have you sharpened?

Mike in NJ

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A friend of mine used to get a better edge on his dull reamers by just using a burnishing tool. It seemed to work pretty well.

You could try it and if not satisfied than go for sharpening it.

As for the peg shaper; Dick now has extra thick HSS blades to match the Herdim shapers they sell.The original blades don't sharpen very well.

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quote:


Originally posted by:
David Tseng

Dick will also sharpen both straight and spiral reamers.

Although the Dick company does have a Sharpening Service I'm not sure if this service also includes sharpening spiral reamers. The photo given at their Service item shows the TORMEK grinding tool. As I own such a TORMEK I don't see how to sharpen the reamer.

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quote:


Originally posted by:
Jimbow

Hi Frits,

In the past few years, there has been a new type of reamer introduced to the market with spiral cutting edges and TiN (titanium- nitride) coating which claim to increase the edge life by three fold.

Has anyone had good experience with these which might make it worthwhile to consider buying a new reamer just because of this new technology?

Just a thought.

Jimbow

I bought one of these about 5 years ago. It's the best reamer that I have ever used. I would highly recommend it although it is more expensive. I seem to remember getting it from Dick, but I don't know what the currency difference is now.

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As I think about sharpening my violin peghole reamer, it seems to me that simply funning a 4000 grit or 6000 grit flat diamond hone on it would work. Run the hone on the inside, not outside. I know it would change the angle of cut slightly, but I think it is maybe 5 degrees at most. Has anyone tried this.

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As I think about sharpening my violin peghole reamer, it seems to me that simply funning a 4000 grit or 6000 grit flat diamond hone on it would work. Run the hone on the inside, not outside. I know it would change the angle of cut slightly, but I think it is maybe 5 degrees at most. Has anyone tried this.

Here is what I was told to do with router bits so you do not change the cutting profile.

You only hone the flat and do not touch the bevel.

 

Now if you have a dull reamer that no longer works, then you have nothing to lose.

So try it, and then check to see how the match is with the peg-Shaver.

If the match is good, then great, otherwise you have to get the two in sync again.

One way would be to make a new peg-shaver out of a hardwood block that matches the newly sharpened reamer.

 

Do I think this is necessary???   You would have to remove a lot of metal to change the profile that much.

 

Also count the number of strokes you take on each flat face of the reamer and do this for all three faces.

If very little metal is removed and equal amounts are removed, my guess is that you might be okay.

 

Nothing ventured, nothing gained!

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