Where can you get f-hole cutters?

[M_A_T_T]

I'm cutting my f-holes right now, Strobel mentions these f-hole hole cutters that cut out the round holes at the top and bottom. I think it would be a useful tool, but I don't know where to get one.

[M_A_T_T]

I found them at howard core.

[Mauricio]

I'm curious as to how many of us here use these. I've never tried them, and now I wonder if they are widely accepted as a standard way of cutting the eyes. Any thoughts?

[Singingmaple]

Iv'e never used one. I thought they were to expensive.

[M_A_T_T]

Yeah, the violin/viola one is $91, the cello one almost twice that.

I just finished cutting out the treble side f-hole with a hobby knife & #11 blade. I was actually able to cut out even the smaller eye with the knife with a little work. I don't think I'll bother spending the money right now.

[tomroth]

GEWA GmbH in Mittenwald

http://www.musik-gewa.de/GEWA_Englisch/ENG_index2.htm

or

Gunther Dick in Metten have very nice ones.

http://www.dick-gmbh.com/index.asp

detailed tool here

http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.storefron...uct/View/701110

or even at

Sai’s Tools

2840 Eastlake Ave. E. # 103

Seattle, WA 98102

Phone: (206) 328-9867

FAX: (206) 328-9867

E-mail: saistools@hotmail.com

Supplier of:

* F-Hole circle Cutter Set

With 10 carbon steel cutters. For violins & violas.

[Oded Kishony]

I use Fostner drill bits at high speed.

OK

[M_A_T_T]

I think I did a pretty decent job with just a knife.

I thought about using a drill, but I didn't want to risk cracking the top if the bit caught. However, I CAREFULLY used a drill to make three small starter holes for my coping saw.

[H.R.Fisher]

I drill a pilot hole large enough for my peg reamer than use the reamer very carefully until the holes are the correct dimension,followed with a piece of sand paper rolled up and inserted into hole for finishing. Henry

[jimbo]

I thought the cutters were a little pricey also.I use a dremel moto tool to make the entry holes then finish with a x-acto knife.I use a 32 tooth hacksaw blade ground down to approx 1/8" tall (from teeth to back) to cut between the opening holes. Works well in the few times I have used it.

Matt-It looks like you did a very clean job with what you had. nice work and I really appreciate the good photography.

[miles]

Yep. It looks very nice.

[M_A_T_T]

Thankyou!

[Michael_Molnar]

Matt, You do beautiful work.

[GMM22]

Well sharpened Forstner bits work well for cutting holes with a clean edge, however, I have yet to find Forstner bits in increments better than 16th's, and this does not allow for much variation. "High quality" brad point drill bits with their scoring lead tangs will also cut holes with a clean edge, and they are often available in increments of 64th's.

Lee Valley Tools sells a quality line of BP bits. While I have not drilled holes for violin soundholes, I have used brad point and Forstner bits extensively for other purposes. There are some tricks to getting high quality holes with brad point bits.

Entry into a material is usually very good, but exiting the other side presents a bit of hazard. The material must be very well seated on scrap wood, so that the last part of the hole is properly cut, otherwise fragments of push through will result from lack of edge support. Another way to ensure a clean hole on both sides is to drill a very small pilot hole (about #60 bit or smaller. Too large of a pilot hole reduces the center tracking ability of the Brad point), drill to score lightly from the underside first, and then finish the hole from the top, while still using scrap backing for edge support.

[MidwesternCheapjack]

I seem to remember Michael Darnton writing that he drilled the holes before carving the inside of the top, so that there was plenty of wood to support the drill point; any tear-out would be carved away.

Dave Gardner

[Seth_Leigh]

Matt I'm stunned your holes look that good carved with an Xacto knife. Keep up the good work!