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Cleaning oily wood from files


Froggie

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Does anyone have a good method for cleaning handfiles. I am referring to fine toothed files, No. 5 and No. 6 (very fine) cut used in bow making? Is there a solution that I can soak the files in to make removal of the built-up pernambuco easier? Would sonic cleaning work?

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Thanks. I have stayed away from brass file cards for fear of contamination of the wood with brass. I don't want any discoloring due to brass flecks residue on the wood when I apply nitric acid.

The files are still sharp, it is just that the oiliness of the wood causes it to build up. I can pick at the build-up with a needle, but that can be time consuming. I just thought there might be some kind of soaking solution to make the process easier. I did read somewhere where someone was using some acid treatments on files to sharpen them, and at the high cost of the 5 and 6 cut files, that might be worthwhile to investigate. These very fine files leave a nice surface.

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I understand your worried but i haven`t had any adverse effects with the brass particles when fuming pernambucco.Are you applying the acid directly to the wood?

Most particles should be removed after scraping and burnishing.

p.s i see your in Oregon, have you any experience with Cook exotic woods??

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Call me fussy, but I have always assumed that the typical steel wire card files would contribute to shortening the lifespan of the file. The actual wire strands appear hardened, and while files are obviously harder, spring steel wire could theoretically have a negative effect over time on the micro edges with repeated use. I have also noted that some steel brushes are made of softer steel.

The negative effect of using a hard steel card file is probably small, but does exist, so I usually use brass brushes and pick out compacted filings with toothpicks or something of the like.

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Usually, you can just use a piece of wood to pick out the debris. Use the endgrain, run it along the grooves. My teacher would yell at us if he saw us using any sort of a metal brush on a file.

I've also found an old tooth brush works well, especially one with the bristles trimmed short.

-Claire

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Here is a link to the sand paper (sanding belt) cleaner that I mentioned above.

Sanding-Belt-Cleaner

Works great from me on files as well as sander. I'm not sure of the material but, it is some synthetic rubber and it doesn't seem to wear much. I've used mine for probably 10 years or more and if you never put it to a belt sander, it will definately last a lifetime

Regis

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I tried the rubber sanding belt cleaner, but it is not aggressive enough, but it does clean the file of the wood particles. Maybe if I use it before the buildup get bad, it will work better. I will give the ethanol and Simple Green a try and follow-up with a good short bristled stiff brush. I think these solvents have some promise. I will let you know how it works. I don't have access to an ultrasound cleaner.

Regarding Cook Woods, I bought a very nice pernambuco plank 12" wide and 3/4 inch thick from them maybe 3-4 years ago. It is some of the best I have seen. I bought a cheaper piece that is not so good. They were good to deal with. They are a much bigger dealer now than they were back then.

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Thanks for the tips on cleaning files.

After soaking the files in alcohol overnight, I brushed them clean with a short bristled fingernail brush (natural type bristle that should not dull the files). I did not have to resort to a metal brush. I did use my fingernail to remove some residue. I was all out of Simple Green, so did not try that.

I have several more files to clean, as I have just purchased new ones when they caked up too badly with oily wood. When I said the rubber sanding belt cleaner removed the wood particles, I meant the loose wood particles, but it did not remove the caked up particles.

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