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Posted

I just finished this today. I've never done anything like it before, but always wanted to. The assignment was a violin made in 1715, and set up in Paris in 1790 (to go with the new owner's transitional Tourte bow). I threw in the idea that if it was that age, it probably wouldn't have had its original board, which would have been replaced around 1760-1770 or so, with one of that time, but there wouldn't have been a neckset done at that point (a bit too early for that, by about 20 years). This is the result (I didn't have the right G string on hand, so that's not "authentic", and the bridge needs a bit of work, still.-): the violin (too big to embed on this page, I think.) The pegs are hand-made, not by me, about 30 years ago, and I did make the old-style tailpiece to match them.

Posted

the reason i asked is that i have cedar tops that look just like that, the winter grains are bold and pronounced. cedar tops tend to have a very strong sappy smell too. nonetheless beautiful work, i like the underside of the fingerboard too, what radius did you use?

Posted

Radius on the underside? I just made it look like the arching that was below it, with a bit of expansion of the empty space as it went towards the bottom of the board. The top surface is like a modern board. For heel shapes and neck thickness, I just went with a composite of the violins in the book Shapes of the Baroque from around the late 1700s with the type of neck/board I wanted--this is friendlier than the really early shape that would have been original. The other departure from tradition is that instead of nails I used a stainless steel screw to hold the neck on. I once had to fix a violin with this type of neck held on by a big screw that had rusted and was holding the neck away from the ribs and couldn't be budged to move, so that's why the stainless.

Posted

Looks absolutely wonderful Michael! [Edit: which is to say, really stunning!]

You can get the 'knot' for the tailgut onto the endbutton by burning the ends to widen them (soldering iron works great for this, smell is... entertaining), and make a half-hitch under the endpin, (which some tie with thread for peace of mind), like the Amati bros. violino piccolo at the National Music Museum:

http://www.usd.edu/smm/Violins/AmatiViolin...pieceBackLG.jpg

http://www.usd.edu/smm/Violins/AmatiViol...kPortraitLG.jpg

Posted

i know what you mean. nowadays my clients all ask that i document everything, so the wife comes in my shop everyday and takes pictures for me. makes a great addition to the finished violin. imo

Posted

I'd seen this done with copper wire, which is what this is. I've also done it with a knot under the endbutton which is just a triple overlap (no knot at all) with the ends burned, a little like the way strings are held on classical guitar bridges. . . and now that I look at your link, that's how this one is, too), but I didn't have the appropriate piece of gut for that. I can change that later, though, if wanted. I sort of like the little polished copper twist on the bottom of the tailpiece, though.

Posted

Very nice work. I think you did real well on the neckshape, since that shape and fingerboard angle are just about what I had on my violin (with a wedge under an modern style board) until until I had the neck reset and reshaped last November. My violin is dated 1790.

Posted

Beautiful - I wanted to make my third a baroque style now I feel like giving up :-)

What is the fingerboard made of? I thought I had read that they were veneered with ebony over a lighter timber.

Tim

Posted

Thanks so much for posting these images (I made a point of asking everytime this project came up, remember?). Looks fantastic.

Is the saddle recessed into the end block?

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