Regis Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Now that I have arched my back, I find that I have a hairline gap between the halves in the bottom 3 1/2 inches . Which, I guess means that I had some shrinkage. I originally glued this in July (75%+ humidity) and arched it last week February (40% humidity). Is that enough? I re-glued - clamped but,,, it popped open (same length). Top is fine, glued the same time. I expect it is better to open now, re-plane and re-glue but I thought I'd ask first. Is that correct? Or should I rough-out the inside first? Thanks, Regis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANFIO Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 When I had this problem with a cello, I used thick hot glue applied with a hot iron (used to ironing clothes) over the region many times. It worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Darnton Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 I use a suction cup to pump in the glue--I wouldn't open it and start over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MANFIO Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 I would not open it too. You can also glue a diamond stud in the region after graduating the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlecollector Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 I agree with the remedies been suggested, reglueing an already arched back is alot more difficult than the suggested options. Also occasionally a slight knock can fracture the glue line at one end,its not always shrinkage. One question, do you always leave plates unfinished for months? If i did that here in the U.K they`d be a totally different shape by the time i picked them up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted February 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Thank you all. fiddlecollector, I have really dragged this out. I've had a pretty full plate over the last year but, things are clearing. I have not done enough building to develop habits 'yet'(good or bad). But, I expect my next one will be carved (inside & out) within a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlecollector Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Here in the u.k its raining one minute then very low humidity the next so i have to carve a plate in a day or two ,otherwise i start getting problems with distortion no matter how well seasoned the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan_Coggins Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 When you have worked glue into the crack you could also try clamping it somehow and slopping boiling water either side of the centre joint (but not on it). The idea is to get the wood to swell a bit and close the joint while it glues. It also helps to put some pressure from above, eg clamp a piece of perspex over the centre joint. That way the swelliing goes sideways, not up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted February 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 I did use suction cup and did put a little clamp pressure on it. We'll see how it holds as I gouge out the inside and go on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andres Sender Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 What would you all say to putting a temporary cleat on the outside in this situation just to help keep things together until the hollowing is done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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