Jeffrey Holmes Posted January 5, 2005 Report Share Posted January 5, 2005 Hi Michael: If I am going to use cleats on a crack, I start by determining at which location(s) they will be of most use (which is not how most of us are "taught" to do it...), then radiate outwards, upwards, or downwards, if/as/when required. I disagree *slightly* with your ideas about the effect of force and the feeble ability of cleats to resist it. Example: In cases near the f holes on cellos (interior, not lower wing), especially if the wood is cracked on the bias or near the intersection of a patch, installing a cleat has been the only thing I've found that keeps the crack closed reliably. The pressure of the bridge in this area can cause problems on the top toward the f... A well shaped one gives just enough support to prevent the top surface from opening. Same goes for cracks near the bridge feet, above, below or next to the bassbar (where the bar actually does pull down), lower "f wing" (where it seems the player can't help but push, but I use a slightly different type of cleat here), and some bias cracks on slab backs (at the nasty places). Oh... and anything running toward the post. I just don't want to see those cracks travel... On clean flank cracks, or clean cracks near the center of the fiddle, I'm with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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