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Lane

Fingerboards

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Do fingerboards come with the correct top camber or must the top of the board be shaped for each violin? I know the boards are thick. Are they planned from the top or bottom?

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A board from the supplier is just a hunk of wood that's almost there, but wrong in every way. Every surface on it needs to be worked. There's so much to it, that I find it quicker to work from a solid rectangular piece of ebony.

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I notice some come with different levels of "finishing," especially where there is already a scooped & countoured playing surface. Obviously sides and mating surfaces need considerable work, plus they come a bit long, etc; Michael, do you find the finished contours of the playing surface always need to be re-worked?

Just curious, as I need to fit a new fingerboard as well. My thinking is that one must take care to ensure the nadir of the scoop is in the optimal location along the length, the curve is correct, the underside planed to the correct playing angle, etc. Seems like a LOT of work, even for a FB that is supposedly "well finished." Is my thinking out of line?

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Agreeing with your premise, which seems true to even an amateur, Then where do you purchase your blanks, and more importantly, do you get better wood for less moolla?

Bud

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After paying a lot of money for "prepared" blanks that required fussing to get working, I finally bought 200 hunks of ebony ($3.25 each, 1994 prices), and I make my own from scratch. Rather than taking little nibbles here and there to try to turn something around and make it right, I prefer to do a bunch of heavy work that's all headed in the *right* direction from the start. A finished board takes me about 45 minutes, where fixing a blank actually used to take me more time than that. I can't remember where I got the wood--Sicklerville NJ sticks in my mind in that regard, but I don't remember the importer's name.

....back again. Here it is: http://www.exoticwoods.com/violin.html

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