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Found 318 results

  1. Here you can follow me constructing the super-light violin. It will be the craziest thing I ever made and please don't take it too seriously. It is the violin maker joke from my workshop. But at least I am serious enough to make it the most professional way I can imagine. So following the footprints of Antonio Stradivari everything starts with a drawing. I decided to throw over board symmetry as well and came up with the funny design below. To save weight the length is only 351mm and all distortions follow the 10 percent rule which means that one f-hole is 10 percent longer than the other.
  2. Happened across this violin. Can anyone tell me if it is any decent or not? Thanks!
  3. I would like your help if possible identifying this violin. I heard this is from 1840s. are all these pieces still origin? What is that sign on the back? thank you very much for all your help! Best regards, Regina
  4. John27

    Cordals

    Hello! Is there anyone here who knows a violin master who made the cordals with only 2 holes?
  5. I have old violin which I am trying to restore for the emotional value it brings for my teacher. I need to get the rib liners which require replacement, I'm not able to source in India; any help welcome, I can pay the cost.
  6. I’m looking at a few bows on eBay, trying to upgrade from my very basic Chinese brazilwood bow to something a bit better. Do any of these look worth a try? Any tips on what to look for in photos would be much appreciated. Thanks everyone
  7. We have the possession of this antique violin, and so far unable to find its history. Can anyone please help us with the brand name, price range, age, or any information regarding this item? We could provide more pictures if needed. Regards Bobby
  8. I know this is most likely not a Lupot but I wondered if it’s possible to tell whether this is a decent bow from these photos? It’s not possible to try it before buying. I have a very basic Chinese bow so I imagine it’s probably better than mine but I don’t even know how to distinguish between decent pernambuco and brazilwood. Roughly what might it be worth spending on this and is it worth the risk? Thanks
  9. Hi, I am new to the forum and was looking to get some help. I am from Malaysia and have been learning the violin for 3 years. I am an adult learner and recently decided to give myself a treat by purchasing a new violin. I currently play on a violin from that I purchased in Singapore at a shop Gramercy fo $1500 (USD). I understand this is a Czech instrument but am not very sure either. I was looking at some Italian violins for 'investment' purposes too and have been reading up a lot. A seller in Malaysia has helped me narrow it down to 3 pieces: Giorgio Grisales: $19,000 Stefano Marzi: $18,000 Stefano Simoetti: $13,000 I understand that the Simonetti is a workshop violin from the maker Dimitri Atanassov. I have tried the violins and personally, I think it sounds as good as the other 2. However, I cannot find much information about it. Is this a new brand? Anybody have any information that you can share on this? Also, does it mean that even though the sound is about on the same level (IMO), the price will not appreciate? Thank you and any input would be much appreciated!
  10. Here is another one of those “French” violins, possibly from the same dealer that Germain purchased from mentioned in another thread. Thoughts? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163720171755
  11. Hello to all We are selling a large collection of aged tone wood for violin, viola and only one piece for cello the collection dates back to 70's and 80's. Pieces are mixed canadian and european - the Luthier has passed. We would like to sell as a lot however would consider selling in bundles the list of what we currently have. Violin tonewood - $25 each solid pieces - 175 joined - 135 carved violin plates - $25 ea 1/2 pieces - 30 Viola tonewood : 30 pieces $30 each Cello - 1 piece and 4 bridges - $100.00 Scrolls : 20 roughed in and 20 refined - $20 each 3 neck blocks - make me an offer - as seen in the pics Ribs - many many ribs in a variety of lengths - please inquire as I am not sure how many you would want for violin they range from 4" - 12" (over 600 pieces) for cello they are 5" wide and range from 14-24" about 25 pieces dozens of assembly spools(handmade) - would consider an offer Moulds - I currently have about 6 different ones as seen in the pictures - $50 each Please send me notes with your inquiries - I will consider all reasonable offers on pieces as well as the lot - we will adjust the pricing for purchase of the entire lot - please inquire!!! shipping presents challenges - however i am open to appointment times and will gladly help you load!! We are located in Windsor Ontario Canada thank you!
  12. I recently acquired this lionshead violin I am currently doing research on them and I just get more and more confused. As I stated in the title there is not identification paper inside the body of the fiddle that I can see. It may have moved however I do not have the tools to look inside of it. I want to know if there is any reason why I should not take this fiddle in to get repaired. Or if I should just set it in an auction on eBay for parts.
  13. I generally like Vuillaume a paris copies of violins. Tried some in the past, often without many bad things to say about them. I was looking to buy one and I came across this violin. It has vuillaume a paris stamped on the back and a label, very potentially fake. But I am entirely confused about what kind of physical proportions this violin has. I've seen a lot of violins but NEVER like this one. Does anyone have any clue? I think it must be too thin/weirdly shaped to be a strad copy. Honestly, I think it's kinda hypnotic. Lol
  14. Hello my name is Adrian. I have a stradivarius violin, it is very rare, it has a saying on the back imitating a flower, the material is very similar to nacre. If you could help me to discover the origin of this magnificent instrument. Thank you so much.
  15. Hello, I am thinking of purchasing this violin. The seller says it's French from early 20th century. Can anyone tell me about it? There is a small crack on the backside, going up the middle from the chin rest, and the purfling is damaged. How much would this cost to repair? Thanks! Kristen
  16. I would like to share a new free sheet music website. https://music.kemancilar.net You can find a variety of music for violin such as classical, pop, movie&series, orchestral excerpts as well as guitar, ukulele, piano, free gig music.
  17. The Cannon comes to Columbus Ohio I presume a lot of you may already know about this and I hope to see some violinmakers turn out. Bruce
  18. I'm looking for some assistance in trying to determine the period in which a violin was made. For your perspective, I'm limited in experience having built just two violins, and have no experience in determining a violin's probable age or region of origin. The violin (pictured below) has no label, and I don't see evidence of label glue. I purchased the violin shown at auction. I got it on the cheap ($23 US). I thought it might be something beyond ordinary export grade based on the nicely figured wood, and that it appeared to have been played extensively. Some aspects of the craftsmanship would be considered to be poor by today's standards - but it does have character and the poor aspects are just symmetry issues. I have inspected it as best I can via external measurement and internal inspection with a mirror and peeping through the tailpiece pin hole. I noted the following aspects that might help identification: There is no neck block (it's a through neck); nor are there lower corner blocks. I don't believe there are upper corner blocks, but I haven't gotten a good look. The upper ribs appear to be inset into the neck. The plates are nicely formed. The fingerboard is stained. It is a firm wood, but I don't believe it is a hardwood. There is a tapered shim between the neck and fingerboard which is attached to the fingerboard. The shim appears to be a soft wood (a pine?). The neck is set between 4 and 5 degrees and the wedge adds 2 to 3 degrees. Both the neck and fingerboard have been channeled down their centers. Both the neck and fingerboard have the number "72" written in pencil in their channels, appearing 4 and 5 times respectively. On the lower end of both the neck and fingerboard channels, there is what appears to be a letter. It appears to me to be a stylized "E" or possibly a "G". There is plaster or similar material plugging both ends of the tunnel created by the fingerboard and neck channels. There is one locating pin which is on the lower belly (into the lower block). The purfling lines are clear/distinct/well defined, but they wander a bit. The f holes are pleasing, but they are positioned differently longitudinally by several millimeters (including their notches). It appears that the string length would be generous at about 335 to 337mm. You can't tell in the photo, but the belly is nicely figured (bear claw). The button is tapered such that it gets thinner as it progresses toward the neck. I do not see any obvious modifications to this instrument. The body dimensions are approximately: overall length excluding the button 14.25" (362mm); bout widths (upper/mid/lower) 167/111/213 at the plate edge, about 161/105/208 to outside of ribs; ribs are 32mm and not tapered; belly max height is slightly more than 17mm; back max height is slightly less than 15mm; f hole upper eyes are set 42mm apart. I don't know what exactly to make of this instrument. If anyone would like to provide me some guidance, I would be grateful. Thanks, Dave
  19. ramy

    suzuki violin

    Hi Someone told me before: Suzuki violin considered the last choice for a factory violin and not recommended at all. Question here :-\ 1- is this true? 2- if yes, does that mean it is terrible violin i shouldn't think of? Or no, not that bad.. it will work And thank you so much
  20. A friend asked me to take a look at this violin bow, but I can barely make anything out from the stamp. It is nearly illegible. All I can say is that it is silver mounted with a round stick and the wood looks quite nice. It also feels rather heavy. We don't live very near a good luthier, so we've decided for now to ask the internet. I'm afraid I don't know much about old bows... For further ID purposes: Does anyone know why the stamp would be so smudged? Is that just caused from prolonged use? Thanks for the help!
  21. ramy

    neck back ribs

    We all know that back, ribs, neck of a violin should be made of the same wood, then if i can clearly see grains or flames or figures "whatever :D" on both back and ribs but not on the neck!! What could that tell us? And DO NECK WOOD AFFECT SOOUND QUALITY??? and thank you so much for your answers
  22. Hi there, I'm looking for an opinion on my violin. I posted some pictures and a description on my website at https://studiokingma.ca/Pfretzschner/ Basically, I'm just curious as to whether it's authentic, since I see a lot of posts floating around about fake labels and markings. I'm a violinist but not a luthier. From pictures, I can't tell if it's Chinese or German or factory or handmade. All I know is whether or not I like the sound! Thanks everyone
  23. Hello everyone, I would like you to see the pictures below; a friend of mine has been playing this violin for the last 10-15 years or so and nobody is sure about its origin: some people think it could be italian XVIII century but other say "french"... Top of violin is a modern replacement by a spanish violin maker so I´m only posting some pictures of back. I hope I will be able to upload some pictures of the scroll very soon if it helps but let´s see the back first. Any suggestions are wellcome as usually! Thanks in advance!
  24. Hi, My husband bought me a 1st violin on eBay, but I've read here that usually it doesn't turn out well. We can return it in worst case. It was listed as an "antique Wilhelm Durrschmidt violin from Markneukirchen germany. On the inside of the violin the only label is stamped directly on the wood and reads "Wilh. Durrlshmidt Geigenbauer Markneukirchen i/S." admittedly that "l" may be an "s" on the durrschmidt stamp, no paper label. I wrote down on a piece of paper how the stamped label is laid out inside. Back is one piece, top is 2 piece. I have attached as many pictures as I could think of, please let me know if more are needed. I has a hard time getting pictures of interior construction, but it has wood blocks inside at the lower corners, as well as bandings that go around top and bottom that look like quarter rounds. Pegs, chinrest, tail piece and fingerboard are all ebony. I couldn't get all the pictures to attach so I uploaded them to an imgur albulm. http://imgur.com/gallery/gx0APV9 My questions are when was this likely made? Is it what it says it is? What quality is it? and any ideas on value? I'm worried my husband overpaid and I din't want to spend the $ to have it set up if it's going to be lousy.
  25. Hello Luthiers, Who is interested in a field trip to the mountains in Colorado to learn about and gather spruce and other tonewoods? This is Simeon Chambers. I am no longer in the business of tonewood, but have tremendous knowledge I can impart on a field trip where incredible spruce is found. Last year we obtained many bolts of excellent spruce. Moderators: I read the terms and conditions, I am not a commercial wood dealer anymore, nor a dealer in wood at all. If you want this in another category, please put it in the proper spot. Here is the deal. It will happen if there is interest, August 15, 16, 17. Thursday through Saturday we camp in the woods, near the spruce. We will have proper permits. People can stay in a town if they wish, instead of camping. There is room for up to 15 people. Reasonable fitness is good. We will camp at 9,000 feet. For details, I can be reached via email at sales@toyfishfactory.com or phone 303 507 5225