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Showing results for tags 'soundpost crack'.
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I submit to you, my sister's cello. It has a couple open sound post cracks and at many places, the edges are flush with the ribs. I don't exactly know what will happen when the top comes off, but the thing obviously needs some work. It's a small cello, 7/8 size or a lady's full size. It has been hypothesized that it's English. My sister says someone once told her it looked like William Baker. In any case, it was purchased for not too much money. I suspect that a full restoration might cost more than the initial cost of the instrument. If you guys look at it and tell me it's a hunk of junk, I won't worry too much about who I recommend my sister sends it too. It'll probably be fine, and she just wants it to stop buzzing so she can play it again. If you guys look at it and say it's really cool and actually possibly a 17th or 18th century instrument, I'll make sure that it's someone capable of beautiful work. She loves the instrument, and others have complimented its sound. It's probably worth sending the instrument to someone really good regardless... Anyway, take a look, if you please:
"...never such a sight... cleats don't fail me now!" Please help me in planning this double bass repair. The 3 ft long top crack over the soundpost has reopened - and the cleats placed on the many rib cracks are very unstable. Some questions about these repairs and tools i will need. Is it correct to start with freeing the soundpost crack and reglueing it in sections, from the center first?It is well aligned at least. I have thought to use small metal "toolmaker's" clamps with spruce studs and plastic wedges. I have seen the "calamari" clamps in other threads; this is my question: they look easier to make, do they work better also? I'm not sure if I will find a suitable plastic pipe to make them. I have ordered some aluminum bars to make the other kind of clamp. I have seen the clamps made of wood and brass screws, (O. Kishony) but I fear to glue clamps directly to the plate, in this case; I think that it would save time but I don't feel experienced for using this method. cleaning the old crack will be difficult and i want to clamp the crack sides securely and immediately before the wood dries. Just another question about wooden pillar clamps: their glueing surface is endwood, do they hold without putting much glue? Some long-reach clamps will be needed for cleating, I will use some of the aluminum bars to make cleating clamps about 12" deep. Section will be mm 25x6. The lower bout rib will probably need the elimination of all the cleats (they do not hold, crack sides move, they add a lot of mass) and doubling with veneer; I have read about using a 3-layer, thin and flexible "plywood" that is produced for model making. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for your attention comments and suggestions! Giovanni