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Found 6 results

  1. Hi everyone. I have built my first violin. Not in the most elegant way maybe, but I had a rather limited setup of tools. The sound is rather evenly dynamic between strings/tunes but somewhat loud and sharp. Using a mute results in a more normal violin sound. I chose to give it a couple of untraditionally attributes, for instance inverted pegbox, hollow scroll, large nut, and less prominent corner blocks. I will work on modifications to come closer to the sound I like. Would appreciate comments/tips. What do you think will be the most effective way of making the sound softer? Like with a mute, but without the mute and least possible loss of dynamics. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF_L48biuyQ
  2. theSTRINGteacher

    Upper Nut hangs over pegbox

    I recently purchased a new violin and there are many things about it that confuse me. One is why the nut was put on so that it hangs over the pegbox. Was this a common practice during a certain time period or was this a sign of poor luthier skills? I have never seen something like this, and would love to be educated on information about if anyone can help.
  3. Bruce Carlson

    Pegbox damage caused by the e-string

    Hi All, I would like to shed light on a problem that often isn't taken care of until it's too late. It has principally to do with the e-string. On violins, the end of some strings that are not protected by winding are quite sharp and can cut into the wood of the floor of the pegbox. The sharp string tip usually flips or springs over towards one pegbox wall or the other and at each turn of the peg the string tip slowly digs a deep groove in either of these two locations as well as on the central pegbox floor (Photo n.1). The e-string is usually the most frequently changed string and some soloists can change one prior to every concert. Worst case is that it is not noticed until the e-string digs all the way through to the outside, like on this J B Guadagnini (Photo n.2). If I see this happening I fill the groove with maple and glue or with a tough wood filler, let dry and trim flush. Then I cut out a piece of goat skin parchment or any other tough parchment skin and glue it onto the floor of the pegbox. (Photo n.3) I make the parchment slightly wider so it goes slightly up the pegbox wall on both sides. (Photo n.4) The parchment is then retouched to a suitable color. (Photo n.5) If caught in time it can save a lot of grief and unnecessary repair and retouch. When changing the e-string I usually try to bind up the sharp end against the peg so it can't move or scratch the pegbox. It can be a pain but in the long run it's best for the instrument. Bruce
  4. speralta

    break

    From the album: Sal Peralta photos

    This is a break that I am trying to figure out how to repair.
  5. I'm repairing a lovely old violin with some major pegbox issues. There were several previous repair attempts (not by me) and there is now very little wood left to work with. I want to re-cheek both sides with full thickness at the A peg and half thickness with a lap joint on either side. But, I have no idea where to buy maple appropriate for this kind of repair, as most of the repair wood I've seen is spruce. The scroll is not flamed, so finding a relative match shouldn't be difficulty. Where do you buy wood of this type? So far I've only found maple for backs and ribs, which is either overkill or too thin for what I need since I'm going to need some extra thickness in order to carve the angle for the lap joint at the narrower scroll. Thanks in advance for the guidance!
  6. franciscus

    Pegbox

    From the album: Parrot 1977

    More details