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Found 9 results

  1. I never see this kind of cracks where the crack don´t exceed the perimeter of the purfling. How could I do to repair this kind of cracks? I have to break the purfling to let the wood go its way, or maybe it could be done in other way. thank you for your help.
  2. Hello, I am wondering how/if to repair a corner of my c-bout that chipped off of my violin while practicing. It is a clean break, but I want to put it back as quickly as possible. I’m giving a recital on this violin in a week and don’t think I’ll be able to make it to the shop to get it fixed before I leave the state to perform and wondered if a simple repair with wood glue would be absolutely horrific or detrimental to my instrument and it’s value. It is very nice instrument and new to me, and I do not want to be doing something entirely foolish. I really don’t want to cause any further damage to my instrument, and was finding mixed reviews to the solution online. Please get back to me at your earliest convenience — I’m kind of panicking a bit... The corner looks seamless when it is simply pressed back into place (without any adhesive) so I’m hoping that I might be able to make a simple repair on my own as it is not a part of the violin that needs to be reopened for any purposes.
  3. Hi people :-) I'm repairing a fairly old violin that I found in a local antique store. It's not very special, but it seems well built and I expect it to have a nice tone. Besides, I'm still learning. I've repaired a couple of violins before, but I don't want to work on anything too good yet. The top had two cracks. I glued the first one and it went quite well. The other one, however was more difficult. The wood had moved over time, so the crack was wide open and required quite bit of clamping to stay together in the right position. I set it to cure overnight, but one of the clamps must have gotten loose, because the crack is now open in the middle and perfectly closed in the sides. My question is: how do I remove the now hard hide glue in the crack that's preventing it from closing rather than holding it together? Will it be sufficient to heat up the area with a heat gun and reclamp it? would that daamage the wwood or the finish? I've tried scraping carefully with a knife, but it's not very effective, and I can't reach the "corners" where the crack goes from open to closed. I was also considering a damp brush, but I don't know if softening/removing the glue would take so much water I'd ruin the wood... Is there any good way to do this? And yes, I will be more careful next time with my clamping :-/
  4. At 16:10 of this video (it's great), Ray Chen showed that his bar-shaped shoulder rest was attached to his 1715 Strad using some kind of glue. Judging from the magnet-like action of the attachment, I thought the glue must be very strong (i.e., unlike the suction-cup type of "glue" used by AcoustaGrip). Ray said that it is a special type of glue that does not harm the varnish. Does anyone know what kind of glue is that? Henry
  5. The neck ring (?) is loose on one of the cheap boxwood pegs on the inexpensive 'experimental' viola I recently purchased. The pegs fit well...so I'm happy with them, but want to glue this bit in place - before it creates some 'mystery' rattle or buzz that I'll be fretting about, lol. Regular white glue? Or would you even bother with hide glue on a peg in the first place?
  6. I am faced with repairing less expensive Chinese instruments (okay - maybe cheap is the right word). I am suspicious I am dealing with something other than hide glue and real varnish. Does anybody know for sure? I have gone through a couple of dozen threads in the Pegbox to see if there has been any mention of what kind of glue and finish are being used on Chinese instruments currently being produced. I haven't found any mention of this. I am reluctant to experiment on somebody else's violin, so I am asking here if anybody knows. I am suspicious that the finish may be some kind of commercial spray lacquer - at least on some (some are very brittle). I am seeing mostly Gewa and Menzel brands around here. Cheers, Bob
  7. Hi, Just joined this awesome forum the other day and this is my first post. Any thoughts on using Old Brown Glue (Liquid Hide Glue) vs. traditional hot hide glue. My research shows that it is basically hide glue with urea added to it. I have also read that it is much better then Tighbond liqiuid hide glue. I'm wondering what some of the more experianced members here think about this glue. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. Best regards.
  8. Hello I haven't invested in a hide glue setup yet. But I have some violins to setup so I was wondering what most people use for glueing the nut on? I bought a setup DVD but it didnt say what he used. Although it looked like dab of Elmers. Thanks Mike
  9. I am feeling a little guilty after glueing up some centre joints with TItebond. Like other people, I have well drilled into my brain that protein glue is the only way to go because of its reversibility, however, I really cannot find a criteria that stops me from using it on centre joints, and as a matter of fact, a lot of other processes in new making. Restoration is another game and I won't go there. This is purely for new making. I was wondering what other people's criteria is for choosing a type of glue or the other, perhaps Titebond is more widely used that I had thought... Working in a shop, one of the guys had the "pleasure" of having to unglue a rib off of the corner block in a Gagliano violin. That thing was definitely NOT glued with hide glue. It took him most of the day to ease that thing. Animal glue would have come apart way easier. Perhaps the old dudes had a different idea of how permanently things should be glued on?