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Found 5 results

  1. I am beginner in double bass making. I made a VIDEO of my first varnishing of double bass by oil varnish - using UV shed. Húslař sold me his "Primo" and provided advice about the varnish recipe and varnishing proces.
  2. I have a low end carved bass in the shop with some pretty dramatic pegbox damage and a broken neck. The instrument was purchased for $4,000 new in 2007. The pegbox could be preserved if I did a graft, but I'm not sure it's really worth it on this level of instrument. I'm tempted to get a precarved neck, possibly from the original factory if they'll do it. I haven't done a bass neck graft, so I have no idea of the realistic quote. Can anyone give a time estimate for a bass neck graft? Most of my repair prices are based on an old survey from the 90's that I extrapolated to get average times based on the labor rates in the survey. For tasks that I don't do often enough it helps to reference such statistics. All my bass pricing is based on this, since I only started working on basses within the last few years. For a neck reset (including removal) I have 18 hours (12 for cello and 8 for violin) or without neck removal 12 hours (8 for cello and 6 for violin). Seems a little bit on the high side, but I'm not great at tracking my time precisely. Also, what is the general guideline for the relationship between the inside of the pegbox and the neck width? It seems to me that there's a structural issue when the inside of the pegbox is wider than the neck, but I can't find any specs on what is 'proper'. Thanks for all your input.
  3. Hello! I need help to Identify this old upright bass. I been searching the net and came up with nothing. I emailed some people but no luck! Please help me with your wisdom! Caution: Images May be HUGE!
  4. I have a bunch of Engelmann Spruce which is cut and split into sizes suitable for double bass. This is master grade wood cut from a tree killed in the "Blackwell Fire" in central Idaho in 1994. This wood was cut into 52" rounds and then split into quarter and eighth segments which measure 52" X 12"-17". The log has a density of .33-.34 and the moisture content is 7-9% with straight, even winter grain lines. I have about 30 tops, maybe more. Available individually or potentially as whole. If someone wanted all of them I'd guess the whole load would be about 1500-2000 lbs. Individual tops can be shipped via USPS but if someone wanted much more than a few tops he/she would have to either bring a truck to Idaho or arrange freight. The third to last photo is of about one third of the total amount of wood available. Individual bass tops are $400-$500 ( there is some variation of quality within the log). Cello and violin pieces are also available. Price for the whole load can be negotiated.
  5. "...never such a sight... cleats don't fail me now!" Please help me in planning this double bass repair. The 3 ft long top crack over the soundpost has reopened - and the cleats placed on the many rib cracks are very unstable. Some questions about these repairs and tools i will need. Is it correct to start with freeing the soundpost crack and reglueing it in sections, from the center first?It is well aligned at least. I have thought to use small metal "toolmaker's" clamps with spruce studs and plastic wedges. I have seen the "calamari" clamps in other threads; this is my question: they look easier to make, do they work better also? I'm not sure if I will find a suitable plastic pipe to make them. I have ordered some aluminum bars to make the other kind of clamp. I have seen the clamps made of wood and brass screws, (O. Kishony) but I fear to glue clamps directly to the plate, in this case; I think that it would save time but I don't feel experienced for using this method. cleaning the old crack will be difficult and i want to clamp the crack sides securely and immediately before the wood dries. Just another question about wooden pillar clamps: their glueing surface is endwood, do they hold without putting much glue? Some long-reach clamps will be needed for cleating, I will use some of the aluminum bars to make cleating clamps about 12" deep. Section will be mm 25x6. The lower bout rib will probably need the elimination of all the cleats (they do not hold, crack sides move, they add a lot of mass) and doubling with veneer; I have read about using a 3-layer, thin and flexible "plywood" that is produced for model making. Is this correct? Thanks in advance for your attention comments and suggestions! Giovanni