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Found 92 results

  1. Hello to all We are selling a large collection of aged tone wood for violin, viola and only one piece for cello the collection dates back to 70's and 80's. Pieces are mixed canadian and european - the Luthier has passed. We would like to sell as a lot however would consider selling in bundles the list of what we currently have. Violin tonewood - $25 each solid pieces - 175 joined - 135 carved violin plates - $25 ea 1/2 pieces - 30 Viola tonewood : 30 pieces $30 each Cello - 1 piece and 4 bridges - $100.00 Scrolls : 20 roughed in and 20 refined - $20 each 3 neck blocks - make me an offer - as seen in the pics Ribs - many many ribs in a variety of lengths - please inquire as I am not sure how many you would want for violin they range from 4" - 12" (over 600 pieces) for cello they are 5" wide and range from 14-24" about 25 pieces dozens of assembly spools(handmade) - would consider an offer Moulds - I currently have about 6 different ones as seen in the pictures - $50 each Please send me notes with your inquiries - I will consider all reasonable offers on pieces as well as the lot - we will adjust the pricing for purchase of the entire lot - please inquire!!! shipping presents challenges - however i am open to appointment times and will gladly help you load!! We are located in Windsor Ontario Canada thank you!
  2. The cello is a nice Caressa and Francais. The player is extremely meticulous about the varnish surface. When the varnish becomes dull at the shoulder and on the upper back he is a sort of freaking out. 2 weeks ago I tried to fix the problem with brushing on the affected area a thin layer of clear varnish and let it dry for 1 week to make sure that it hardens out sufficiently. the player is not too enthusiastic about a protecting plastic sheet on that area. i am not too enthusiastic about some commercial durable varnish (for boats), because I don't know how reversible it is. I am almost thinking of a breast rest (similar to a violin shoulder rest) to solve the problem. Anyone here on MN had the same problem?
  3. I have a cello made by Tetsuo Matsuda made in 1985. Overall the build quality is amazing. The cello is more on the heavy side. The sound of the cello is alright. The g and c string in overall in my opinion a little weak but it may be just the type of string used. On the A and D strings, it has larsen and on the G C string it has spirocores. There has been damage done the the cello. It had a neck graf and it also had a little chip taken off and glued back on on the left-hand side. It's hard to tell but I seems like the cello has a broken neck but reglued back on. I was just wondering how much the cello would be worth nowadays in the market. Thanks for the help! If you want more information, just reply to this topic. If you want pictures, I can post some if you ask. Thank you so much for the help
  4. Aside from being converted from a viola de gamba by Stradivari, the adjustable neck is very interesting. Can some one explain how this works?
  5. One of my son’s cellos has a strange buzz coming from the fingerboard. It is not the string buzzing on the fingerboard, the string height is great and the scoop is perfect. In order to correct it I place my finger underneath the fingerboard and press up (away from the top plate). It is also remedied by slightly pressing downward on the top of the fingerboard. We have tried a little sticky-tac on the underside of the fingerboard to experiment with no effect. So weird...
  6. I’m borrowing a cello from my aunt, it’s been sitting in a closet for upwards of 13 years. I was trying to tune it and the strings were so low, but I couldn’t tighten them anymore or they would snap. I’m pretty sure I need new strings, does anyone have any stores they recommend buying from?
  7. Lyd

    Just got a Cello

    I just got a Cello. It had been sitting in my aunts closet for a long time, and when I got it out the strings were very lose, and some were off the pegs. It’s a Knilling cello, but I’m not sure of the make, model, or even size. Any tips regarding to setup?
  8. I keep seeing Ernst Reinhold Schmidt instruments popping up and am wondering about the varying quality. Some can look very nice. I know this topic was briefly discussed awhile back, but in cellos, for example, the prices can vary by many thousands. It was mentioned that some can be very fine, but what is “very fine” for a large workshop/factory? Or did Ernst himself actually play a role in the building of certain instruments?
  9. I travel quite a bit for work anyway, but it would be an extra trip to check this out... turn it into a father son trip? What do you think?
  10. This is a smallish 7/8 cello that is on loan to me. I am very curious about how old it might be and of course, who the maker might be. The person who was storing this cello seems to know nothing about this cello except it’s “old”. Help appreciated!!
  11. I have a fine old cello on my bench right now that needs a new bridge. It’s in now because the cello was bumped and the bridge was broken. I had cut the previous bridge for it and put my usual spread in the feet, but I found that the feet spread wider as the months went on. I suspect this happened because this cello had a rather barrel-like arch and string tension and the arch shape encouraged more spread than usual. Now that I’m cutting another bridge, I’d like to avoid this issue if possible. My question is as follows: Would you put extra spread in the feet when cutting this bridge or leave it alone? I’m concerned about overloading it with too much pressure and I want to avoid using a wider bridge because the bass bar is far enough in that I really don’t want the feet any farther apart.
  12. I've been asked to fit a set of cello fine tune pegs. I have fitted Wittner violin pegs on occasions , work fine but they protrude (pegbox to collar) more than the standard distance As they are very pricey does anyone have any experience of how well they last or which makes are best? Wittner, Knilling and Peghead seem to be the only makes around. Any comments gratefully received! Keith
  13. Hello, I am a cellist in Australia trying to find the cello of my dreams (no easy task in this part of the world!). Can anyone help me out with information about this maker? I have just come across a cello dated from 1981 by this maker. It is very hard to get information about the overseas makers here in Australia, and what they should be worth…...
  14. Can someone please help me identify this cello. I've found it on eBay and one of the images shows tag that says "fait à Mirecourt par le Maitre Luthier Amedée Dieudonné en 1936" and I don't know if it's legit or not. Back plate seems like it's from one piece of wood which I find odd. Any information is appreciated.
  15. This crack downward from the upper hole has been cleated and is stable. The soundpost sits approx 16-20mm west... I was wondering if it’s still considered a soundpost crack?
  16. What the...!? The only thing I can think of for this label is a handwritten counterfeit attempted only after someone was sucked into a mirror after a botched use of a Ouiji board. And pictures, in case the listing mysteriously disappears.
  17. My Mom gave us her cello about 5 years ago that she has had most of her life and she is now almost 70. It has part of a marking on the inside that says "made in Germany", but that is the only identification I can find. We are going to have to sell it and I don't have any idea what maker it is from or what general price I should try to sell it at. She played it in many orchestras and other cellists thought it had a wonderful sound. Any help you could provide would be wonderful! Thank you. -Jonathan
  18. Hii :) I need to get new Cello strings, particularly the A string (the core is showing on that one...) and I'm not sure what to choose. I have played the Cello for about 4 years and I currently have pirastro piranito strings. I like them quite well but I'm thinking of maybe upgrading. I still want steel strings, I like the sound :) I have had my strings for about 2 years (I think) but I haven't really used my C and G strings a lot so they are still fine and it feels like a shame to just throw them out. So I'm thinking of maybe only getting a new A string or both getting new A and D strings. And to possibly get a different A string from the rest of the strings. Does anybody have any suggestion of what would be a good combo? Or if I change all of them what a good upgrade set would be? :)
  19. Assuming the LOB for a cello is 740-765mm, is the vibrating string length always optimally set at 695mm? Are there ever anomalies to this standard?
  20. I bought this cello in 2015 and sold it to a they are asking if I'd like to buy it back for $2200. I'm tempted to buy it back. Though I'm wondering what the value of this most-likely-copy is... I found more detailed pictures of this same cello online...
  21. Hi. Please see the attached picture. Its the bottom of the cello and there’s that black thing. Is that something that you see in some cellos or did they just cut the ribs too short and put in a filler? Thanks from Kevin.
  22. I have a cello that has an obvious fingerboard dip near 4th position (heel area). It takes a nice dip and then increases a few centimeters toward the bridge. The buzz is across all four strings. Usually lightly sanding slight dips are easy, but this is a bit more severe. It has a newer fingerboard with plenty of wood to work with. I’m afraid that a block plane will take an excessive amount of ebony... is there an easier way? Can I approach the leveling from the nut or the bridge side with better and more efficiency?
  23. Hi there Kevin again. I wound up getting a Yita T20, MC7000, “Best Quality“ cello after all. I put in a bid on eBay and thought someone would bid it up. Well, they didn’t - so its mine. I’ve posted a few pictures. There doesn’t seem to be many close up pictures online so I thought I’d post some. I haven’t set it up, but I can immediately tell the bridge feet don’t fit so it so I’ll either have to get it better fit or get a new one. A new tailpiece is probably in order too. This was all expected given the price I paid, which was $711 + $189 shipping. Overall, the body is really nice and the wood appears to have been aged fairly well. One thing that I noticed was the top and bottom of the back have been nailed to the blocks. (pictured) Also, there is a noticeable imperfection in the neck that I’ve pictured. I’m wondering if its just on the surface or whether it will crack through over time, or whether the top block will hold it together. What do you think? Perish the thought of sending it back to China. Only the luthier will know. Otherwise, the body seems really great and I’m confident it will produce a good sound. Anyway, here are the pics. I’ll keep y’all posted.
  24. Here is a summer project... wondering the origin. My guess is amateur American, Ca. 1930. The scroll is further than 6 o’clock, more like 7:30, or so. Ffs look like a first attempt. Though fully lined with corner blocks, the slight view of the c block looks not let in, nor mitred. The purfling also looks like an amateur, especially at the corners. It has some unidentified glue, a sound post patch, and well... let’s just say it was not expensive
  25. I found this cello today for a very cheap price and I was hoping someone could help me find some information about it. The varnish is starting to crack so the instrument was either mistreated or has some age. Previous owner seems to have rigged bass tuners on the peg box which seemed odd but did work. There is a Stradivarius tag inside the cello; it looks like the model number is HG,644 and the serial number is 505002. It played nicely and had the similar sweet, full sound of other Stradivarius instruments but I couldn't find anything about the instrument. It doesn't have any flamed maple or figured wood types, looks pretty plain, but I don't know much about instrument identification. Not sure if it's a real Strad replica so if anyone could help with my search it would be greatly appreciated. (sorry for the bad photos. just tried to snap a couple before i left.)