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Found 307 results

  1. The Cannon comes to Columbus Ohio I presume a lot of you may already know about this and I hope to see some violinmakers turn out. Bruce
  2. I would like to share a new free sheet music website. https://music.kemancilar.net You can find a variety of music for violin such as classical, pop, movie&series, orchestral excerpts as well as guitar, ukulele, piano, free gig music.
  3. I recently acquired this lionshead violin I am currently doing research on them and I just get more and more confused. As I stated in the title there is not identification paper inside the body of the fiddle that I can see. It may have moved however I do not have the tools to look inside of it. I want to know if there is any reason why I should not take this fiddle in to get repaired. Or if I should just set it in an auction on eBay for parts.
  4. I'm looking for some assistance in trying to determine the period in which a violin was made. For your perspective, I'm limited in experience having built just two violins, and have no experience in determining a violin's probable age or region of origin. The violin (pictured below) has no label, and I don't see evidence of label glue. I purchased the violin shown at auction. I got it on the cheap ($23 US). I thought it might be something beyond ordinary export grade based on the nicely figured wood, and that it appeared to have been played extensively. Some aspects of the craftsmanship would be considered to be poor by today's standards - but it does have character and the poor aspects are just symmetry issues. I have inspected it as best I can via external measurement and internal inspection with a mirror and peeping through the tailpiece pin hole. I noted the following aspects that might help identification: There is no neck block (it's a through neck); nor are there lower corner blocks. I don't believe there are upper corner blocks, but I haven't gotten a good look. The upper ribs appear to be inset into the neck. The plates are nicely formed. The fingerboard is stained. It is a firm wood, but I don't believe it is a hardwood. There is a tapered shim between the neck and fingerboard which is attached to the fingerboard. The shim appears to be a soft wood (a pine?). The neck is set between 4 and 5 degrees and the wedge adds 2 to 3 degrees. Both the neck and fingerboard have been channeled down their centers. Both the neck and fingerboard have the number "72" written in pencil in their channels, appearing 4 and 5 times respectively. On the lower end of both the neck and fingerboard channels, there is what appears to be a letter. It appears to me to be a stylized "E" or possibly a "G". There is plaster or similar material plugging both ends of the tunnel created by the fingerboard and neck channels. There is one locating pin which is on the lower belly (into the lower block). The purfling lines are clear/distinct/well defined, but they wander a bit. The f holes are pleasing, but they are positioned differently longitudinally by several millimeters (including their notches). It appears that the string length would be generous at about 335 to 337mm. You can't tell in the photo, but the belly is nicely figured (bear claw). The button is tapered such that it gets thinner as it progresses toward the neck. I do not see any obvious modifications to this instrument. The body dimensions are approximately: overall length excluding the button 14.25" (362mm); bout widths (upper/mid/lower) 167/111/213 at the plate edge, about 161/105/208 to outside of ribs; ribs are 32mm and not tapered; belly max height is slightly more than 17mm; back max height is slightly less than 15mm; f hole upper eyes are set 42mm apart. I don't know what exactly to make of this instrument. If anyone would like to provide me some guidance, I would be grateful. Thanks, Dave
  5. Here you can follow me constructing the super-light violin. It will be the craziest thing I ever made and please don't take it too seriously. It is the violin maker joke from my workshop. But at least I am serious enough to make it the most professional way I can imagine. So following the footprints of Antonio Stradivari everything starts with a drawing. I decided to throw over board symmetry as well and came up with the funny design below. To save weight the length is only 351mm and all distortions follow the 10 percent rule which means that one f-hole is 10 percent longer than the other.
  6. ramy

    suzuki violin

    Hi Someone told me before: Suzuki violin considered the last choice for a factory violin and not recommended at all. Question here :-\ 1- is this true? 2- if yes, does that mean it is terrible violin i shouldn't think of? Or no, not that bad.. it will work And thank you so much
  7. A friend asked me to take a look at this violin bow, but I can barely make anything out from the stamp. It is nearly illegible. All I can say is that it is silver mounted with a round stick and the wood looks quite nice. It also feels rather heavy. We don't live very near a good luthier, so we've decided for now to ask the internet. I'm afraid I don't know much about old bows... For further ID purposes: Does anyone know why the stamp would be so smudged? Is that just caused from prolonged use? Thanks for the help!
  8. ramy

    neck back ribs

    We all know that back, ribs, neck of a violin should be made of the same wood, then if i can clearly see grains or flames or figures "whatever :D" on both back and ribs but not on the neck!! What could that tell us? And DO NECK WOOD AFFECT SOOUND QUALITY??? and thank you so much for your answers
  9. Hi there, I'm looking for an opinion on my violin. I posted some pictures and a description on my website at https://studiokingma.ca/Pfretzschner/ Basically, I'm just curious as to whether it's authentic, since I see a lot of posts floating around about fake labels and markings. I'm a violinist but not a luthier. From pictures, I can't tell if it's Chinese or German or factory or handmade. All I know is whether or not I like the sound! Thanks everyone
  10. Hello everyone, I would like you to see the pictures below; a friend of mine has been playing this violin for the last 10-15 years or so and nobody is sure about its origin: some people think it could be italian XVIII century but other say "french"... Top of violin is a modern replacement by a spanish violin maker so I´m only posting some pictures of back. I hope I will be able to upload some pictures of the scroll very soon if it helps but let´s see the back first. Any suggestions are wellcome as usually! Thanks in advance!
  11. Hi, My husband bought me a 1st violin on eBay, but I've read here that usually it doesn't turn out well. We can return it in worst case. It was listed as an "antique Wilhelm Durrschmidt violin from Markneukirchen germany. On the inside of the violin the only label is stamped directly on the wood and reads "Wilh. Durrlshmidt Geigenbauer Markneukirchen i/S." admittedly that "l" may be an "s" on the durrschmidt stamp, no paper label. I wrote down on a piece of paper how the stamped label is laid out inside. Back is one piece, top is 2 piece. I have attached as many pictures as I could think of, please let me know if more are needed. I has a hard time getting pictures of interior construction, but it has wood blocks inside at the lower corners, as well as bandings that go around top and bottom that look like quarter rounds. Pegs, chinrest, tail piece and fingerboard are all ebony. I couldn't get all the pictures to attach so I uploaded them to an imgur albulm. http://imgur.com/gallery/gx0APV9 My questions are when was this likely made? Is it what it says it is? What quality is it? and any ideas on value? I'm worried my husband overpaid and I din't want to spend the $ to have it set up if it's going to be lousy.
  12. Hello Luthiers, Who is interested in a field trip to the mountains in Colorado to learn about and gather spruce and other tonewoods? This is Simeon Chambers. I am no longer in the business of tonewood, but have tremendous knowledge I can impart on a field trip where incredible spruce is found. Last year we obtained many bolts of excellent spruce. Moderators: I read the terms and conditions, I am not a commercial wood dealer anymore, nor a dealer in wood at all. If you want this in another category, please put it in the proper spot. Here is the deal. It will happen if there is interest, August 15, 16, 17. Thursday through Saturday we camp in the woods, near the spruce. We will have proper permits. People can stay in a town if they wish, instead of camping. There is room for up to 15 people. Reasonable fitness is good. We will camp at 9,000 feet. For details, I can be reached via email at sales@toyfishfactory.com or phone 303 507 5225
  13. Had this restored. It wasn’t in that bad of shape. The luthier couldn’t give me a name or an age, he thought maybe baroque. I don’t know why it has filled holes in the c-bouts and the three upfront. It came with a bow marked Vuillaume probably a copy. Thanks in advance.
  14. This is my first post on the forums. I've been learning violin repair/restoration for about a year now and have been learning through the repair of a variety of old factory fiddles in various states of disrepair. I know enough about identifying violins to make me dangerous, so I'm hoping someone might be able to tell me about this fiddle. I recently picked up this G.A. Pfretschner and I'm wondering what anyone might be able to tell me about it. From the research I've done, it seems many (or most) of these violins were student grade instruments although it appears some of the instruments were of reasonably good quality. This fiddle, unlike others I've worked on, seems well constructed. It has an independent bass bar, corner blocks and from what I can see with an inspection mirror the top plate seems to have been carved with more care than I've seen on other factory fiddles. Thanks in advance and I'm looking forward to learning from folks!
  15. I’m trying to find out a bit about where my violin came from but my searches are coming up empty. I bought my violin in the 90s from a small shop in Somerville NJ. Inside sticker reads: 717902 string instrument from King Model KV375G A product of UMU, Elkhart, In Any info you may have would be so helpful- Thanks in advance!!
  16. Hi there, I recently saw a violin that someone "fixed", where instead of removing the neck and setting it to the correct angle, the person put a wedge under the fingerboard to raise it to the correct angle. Is this sometimes considered an acceptable fix? This should actually make playing harder in higher positions since it makes the neck thicker the closer you go to the body of the violin. Basicly the neck is almost straight with the body. So is this fix acceptable? Personally I would remove the wedge, and set the neck to the correct angle. But why wasnt something like that done in the first place? Disreguarding it being non-invasive on the violin. Thank You.
  17. Hello everyone, This is a photoset of my violin, an antique from 1880s Germany (or possibly the German-speaking part of what is now the Czech Republic). As you can see, it is rather large all around, with beautiful flamed-maple back and ribs and a gorgeous red varnish. It's extremely heavy, and I've gotten so used to it that some of my professional friends' violins feel like toys in my hand. Even my viola is significantly lighter. It's not incredibly obvious from photos, but the scroll leans back quite a bit further than a normal violin. The pegs are custom viola pegs because violin pegs ware far too small to fit in the peg box. It has a very warm and extremely dark tone, and loves warm strings like the Warchal Brilliant Vintage and Amber sets. It has great projection for being such a dark-sounding instrument, too. I was recently made aware of a maker named Maggini. The person who told me about these instruments said that mine fits several of the characteristics of a Maggini, whether it be a true Maggini, or a copy. The things it is missing, which may or may not make or break it, are the double purfling and the triple scroll. It is fully carved, and the purfling was inlaid by hand. Would anyone be able to verify if this is indeed a Maggini model/copy, and what it could potentially be worth? It is an heirloom that we got restored (all new hardware, including fingerboard and custom pegs/tailpiece) and there are no labels, stamps, or writing in it, so we know next to nothing about it besides 1880s Germany. To me, it's priceless because of the sentimental value, but I'm also interested in the potential monetary value as well. The luthier I took it to said it's a run-of-the-mill Strad copy, but it doesn't quite seem to fit the shape. I did the best I could with the tape measure, but I kept the higher end where it was when I measured with two hands. Thanks kindly, Kristen Stadelmaier
  18. Hello everyone! First of all, I've been observing this forum for a long time and I'd like to thank you all for countless hours I spent here, exploring the fascinating subject of violin making and its history, the amount of knowledge one can find here is just unbelievable! I have here a violin which I'm curious to know more about - it's actually not yet another "how much can I sell it for" topic, I'm not interested in the value, I'm just very interested in knowing as much as possible about the model and origin of this violin. I tried to do my best, I did my homework and read the guidelines for taking pictures, hope they are sufficient - if not, let me know how can I improve them! I also measured it, the measurements are 359; 167/110/203. There is a label inside, but since it's for sure fake, I thought I shouldn't show it yet in order not to influence anyone's opinion. If you have any thoughts about this instrument, I'll be very grateful if you share them!
  19. I am interested in buying a violin but am very low on funds. I’ve been reading up on violins and most every article I’ve read says you should not buy a cheap violin online, as they are basically toys. I’ve considered renting, but that is also expensive. Any ideas as to how i could get a violin
  20. Hmmm... anyone claiming this may be what the listing states? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163582751462
  21. Hello varnish specialists! A violinist wants to order one of my cases, and wishes that the case be lined in a polyester velour of his liking. He has a Strad and a Vuillaume, and personally I'm worried about the reaction that the material may have with the varnish in hot weather. Can anyone provide me with personal experiences? Horror stories? Or is polyester OK? Many thanks in advance!
  22. Hi, I'm considering trying out the Suzuki Method for violin. I have Book 1 already, I just need to figure out a good practice routine. I have a teacher who is familiar with Suzuki, but lets me play whatever I want. I have 20+ years of previous music experience, so my general music theory is pretty good I just want to know what people who have done Suzuki or teach Suzuki would recommend for a daily structured (possibly timed) practice routine. I usually practice between 1 and 2 hours every day.
  23. Hello, I’ve had this for a little bit of time, but thought I would share. It was traded for 2 pups out of a litter. Since puppies are priceless, I believe that makes this violin priceless Oh well, looks a bit Saxon to me. Thought I would share! Tried to get a shot of a corner block, but didn’t quite work out.
  24. Hello everyone, I am a violin performance student in his last semester. For the last couple of years I have been teaching myself violin and bow repairs and studying the historical makers. I was always handy with a knife as a kid, and enjoy working with wood. I bought several broken german violins and bows from ebay and have restored them as a way to learn. For the last two years I have been getting quite a bit of work at the university I am studying at, as there is no reputable violin shop close by. I have done rehairs, cut bridges, replaced bow tips, silver wrapping and thumb grips, fixed frogs and eyelets, glue seams, reset necks, dressed fingerboards, the whole shebang. The thing is that I have not made a violin yet. I really enjoy the restoration and setup aspect and frankly as a fulltime student I have not had the time. So that brings me to the question, what do I call myself? A restorer, repairer? Would it be presumptuous to call myself a Luthier? Some of my work: www.instagram.com/azevedoviolinist
  25. Hi. I bought a used Chinese made scherle roth violin. The original price was 300 USD so it's a low end instrument. The notes all sound fine except the A string's c sharp note. When I play it it vibrates abnormally with cross tonality. In other words imagine hitting c and csharp on a piano at the same time - that's how it sounds. This isnt a case of me putting any vibrato on the string through my bow or finger pressure. This isnt a case of accidentally hitting the E string at the same time. It doesnt occur on other notes or strings. Naturally I replaced the string and examined the head and bridge and soundboard for imperfections but cannot locate the source of the jittering sound. Any thoughts? Playing D or C sounds fine but the Csharp whirls like a helicopter sound when it takes off. Mark