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Found 11 results

  1. Hi there, as a professional violin maker I sometimes feel uncomfortable when an industrial instrument comes to the bench and needs reglueing. I'm talking about industrial glue that dries into "plastic-ish" layer. I usually cut chips of this old glue to test for hot water dissolution, but most often I get no happy surprise : plastic-ish, indeed! So after having mechanically removed the glue I glue it back, usually with aliphatic glue (not to mention a very famous brand name :-)) I wouldn't dare to use my good old hide glue, as I tend to consider that the wood has been sealed with
  2. Hello I haven't invested in a hide glue setup yet. But I have some violins to setup so I was wondering what most people use for glueing the nut on? I bought a setup DVD but it didnt say what he used. Although it looked like dab of Elmers. Thanks Mike
  3. Hello! I am looking for some expert advice on a repair venture I am beginning on a friend's cello. I am an experienced electric guitar builder but cello is a bit outside of my pond. I have a neck that is cleanly broken off from the pocket with only some minor chipping within. I have three questions: - Do I need proper hide glue or would some Titebond III do the trick? Any alternatives? - Would it be preferable to fill the chip-outs with a glue/sawdust mixture or do I need to look at replacing the block? - Should I remove all glue before a second glue-up? Any other
  4. I never see this kind of cracks where the crack don´t exceed the perimeter of the purfling. How could I do to repair this kind of cracks? I have to break the purfling to let the wood go its way, or maybe it could be done in other way. thank you for your help.
  5. Hello, I am wondering how/if to repair a corner of my c-bout that chipped off of my violin while practicing. It is a clean break, but I want to put it back as quickly as possible. I’m giving a recital on this violin in a week and don’t think I’ll be able to make it to the shop to get it fixed before I leave the state to perform and wondered if a simple repair with wood glue would be absolutely horrific or detrimental to my instrument and it’s value. It is very nice instrument and new to me, and I do not want to be doing something entirely foolish. I really don’t want to cause any further damag
  6. Hi people :-) I'm repairing a fairly old violin that I found in a local antique store. It's not very special, but it seems well built and I expect it to have a nice tone. Besides, I'm still learning. I've repaired a couple of violins before, but I don't want to work on anything too good yet. The top had two cracks. I glued the first one and it went quite well. The other one, however was more difficult. The wood had moved over time, so the crack was wide open and required quite bit of clamping to stay together in the right position. I set it to cure overnight, but one of the clamps must h
  7. At 16:10 of this video (it's great), Ray Chen showed that his bar-shaped shoulder rest was attached to his 1715 Strad using some kind of glue. Judging from the magnet-like action of the attachment, I thought the glue must be very strong (i.e., unlike the suction-cup type of "glue" used by AcoustaGrip). Ray said that it is a special type of glue that does not harm the varnish. Does anyone know what kind of glue is that? Henry
  8. The neck ring (?) is loose on one of the cheap boxwood pegs on the inexpensive 'experimental' viola I recently purchased. The pegs fit well...so I'm happy with them, but want to glue this bit in place - before it creates some 'mystery' rattle or buzz that I'll be fretting about, lol. Regular white glue? Or would you even bother with hide glue on a peg in the first place?
  9. I am faced with repairing less expensive Chinese instruments (okay - maybe cheap is the right word). I am suspicious I am dealing with something other than hide glue and real varnish. Does anybody know for sure? I have gone through a couple of dozen threads in the Pegbox to see if there has been any mention of what kind of glue and finish are being used on Chinese instruments currently being produced. I haven't found any mention of this. I am reluctant to experiment on somebody else's violin, so I am asking here if anybody knows. I am suspicious that the finish may be some kind
  10. Hi, Just joined this awesome forum the other day and this is my first post. Any thoughts on using Old Brown Glue (Liquid Hide Glue) vs. traditional hot hide glue. My research shows that it is basically hide glue with urea added to it. I have also read that it is much better then Tighbond liqiuid hide glue. I'm wondering what some of the more experianced members here think about this glue. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. Best regards.
  11. I am feeling a little guilty after glueing up some centre joints with TItebond. Like other people, I have well drilled into my brain that protein glue is the only way to go because of its reversibility, however, I really cannot find a criteria that stops me from using it on centre joints, and as a matter of fact, a lot of other processes in new making. Restoration is another game and I won't go there. This is purely for new making. I was wondering what other people's criteria is for choosing a type of glue or the other, perhaps Titebond is more widely used that I ha