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Found 18 results

  1. I just got a new bridge for my Montagnana cello yesterday and I'm finding out that the height between the end of the fingerboard and the bridge is 7.5mm at the A string and 10mm at the C string. I have Jargar medium gauge strings on the A and D and Spirocore, tungsten wound (also medium gauge) on the G and C. Aside from the string height, the my cello sounds much more beautiful with the new bridge and the only problem is the facility to play it. Should I bring it back to the guy who worked on my cello or just learn to live with the high strings?
  2. Hello everyone, I am currently doing researches on what is available in the market as an alternative to ebony for fingerboards, as I'd like to try something else. Looking up online, I found: -''Musaica Imports Forte fingerboards'' made from 100% renewable resources. I'm not sure what it means. It kind of looks like some ''green'' advertisement to me. if you know more I'd be curious to get more details about it... -''Sound composite Archotech Fingerboards'' (They have 4 styles of fingerboards to choose from) Also the word IPE (not sure what it is standing for) was mentioned in different threads. I was wondering if someone had tried those materials before? If yes, how is it different from ebony to work with? Also is it different in terms of properties (density, stiffness etc.), does it impact the acoustic differently? (Ideally I'd like to find something quite close to ebony) I would also like to know if there is other alternatives/brands you knew about? Thank you, Charline
  3. Hello I am selling my father's collection of luthier supplies - this is just a few items I've photographed thus far. I also have a full size viola - it is in excellent condition - as it was brought in to our studio just before my dad fell ill and remained in our inventory - purchased from either heinl & co or kessler violin co (chelmsford ontario) about 5 years ago - it needs to sing!!! asking $400 obo ivory fingerboards ivory chin rests bow hair - 15 packs - asking $50 asking $20 each or make me an offer for the lot if approved i will post many more new items - bridges, pegs, items for bows, rib wood, hand carving tools and so on- if you have a specific interest or questions please ask away! we are located in Windsor On. thank you!
  4. Hi there, I recently saw a violin that someone "fixed", where instead of removing the neck and setting it to the correct angle, the person put a wedge under the fingerboard to raise it to the correct angle. Is this sometimes considered an acceptable fix? This should actually make playing harder in higher positions since it makes the neck thicker the closer you go to the body of the violin. Basicly the neck is almost straight with the body. So is this fix acceptable? Personally I would remove the wedge, and set the neck to the correct angle. But why wasnt something like that done in the first place? Disreguarding it being non-invasive on the violin. Thank You.
  5. We watched Steve Martin and Martin Short on Netflix last night. The fiddle player, Nicky Sanders (I looked him up and he was the concertmaster of The Young People's Symphony Orchestra in Berkley in his younger days) had a very strange fingerboard. My wife asked, "What is that black thing?" I said, "The weirdest fingerboard I've ever seen." Do you agree?
  6. What are the reasons for that all modern instruments have a solid piece of ebony? All fingerboards were veneered in the baroque era but why did they stop doing this? If there aren't that many differences then why don't we start veneering our fingerboards again to save the threatened ebony wood?
  7. Hello guys, we generally use 50mm radius for the cello here, I had a client today, his cello had a very convex fingerboard much smaller than 50mm, maybe even smaller than a violin curve and it was a non romberg. This kinda surprised me, I have yet to talk with him if this shape was intentional for his playing preferences. When we look at sources there are tons of different radii suggestions for cello fingerboards from 50s to over 60. We teach our students general cremona specs as 42 for violins, 37 for violas and 50 for cellos. As violin and viola radius are mostly standardized, I wondered what do you prefer when it comes to cello fingerboards. And why to you prefer that radius? Özgün
  8. I have a cello I just bought used. It was hardly played. Probably because of the buzzing. Have not played since High School and trying it again. I have played guitar for years and work on my own instruments. Familiar with basic guitar setup. On this cello it does not buzz on open strings. When fretting the A and somewhat D string in first or second position it buzzes very bad. I attached two pictures. In the first I used a straight edge and there is light between the straight edge & fingerboard from just below the nut to the top of the body. In the second picture my finger is where the straight edge again makes full contact with the fingerboard. This leads me to believe the neck or fingerboard is warped? Or is scooped wrong? Or something else? Or bridge is too low? I didn't pay much for this cello (though I found it was close to its new price) and don't want to put much money into it as I don't know if I will play it much. Just wanted to try cello again. Thanks for any help or info. Paul
  9. This came in an email advertisement yesterday. Has anyone seen or tried these yet. Is this different from the sound composites that was previously discussed here? http://acavalloviolins.com/details.php?prodID=1119&CAT=5 Steve
  10. I received this violin a while ago and have been playing it for a few months. It's very strong and has a rich sound, but I don't have any clues to who made it, what kind of varnish is on it, or when it was made. There is no maker's label on the inside (but there is something, that will be in a picture) and looks like it has had a repair, I think, since it came from a repair shop and may have had a small crack. I've made my own estimate and I guess it was made after 1900, but I'm no appraiser. It's actually due to be appraised sometime in the near future, but I've not gotten to it yet, hoping they have some answers. Also, no bow came with it (I have my own two), so there's not going to be any clues that way. I have posted the pictures on Tumblr since for some reason I cannot upload them to this post. Also, I've made captions for most of them stating what I know: http://captainsicarius.tumblr.com/post/148061275299/by-the-way-sorry-for-the-choice-of-background http://captainsicarius.tumblr.com/post/148061625704/part-two So, will anyone have a go at this? Hopefully an estimate on when it was made, at least, maybe where, or by who (again, I also have no idea what kind of varnish is on it). Thank you in advance to anyone who replies.
  11. Found groove cut into neck, and matching groove on underside of fingerboard. (Suzuki viola 14"). Nothing in the grooves. Why the grooves? (photo attached).
  12. Hello, I am looking to replace my fingerboard with a nicer, thiner fingerboard. As is, the fingerboard is too thick and the bridge has to be high. I see "gabor" ebony, but I cannot tell if they are properly planed with the dip and all. I do not want to plane a fingerboard. Much appreciated, Dave
  13. I am making my fourth violin and have decided to glue the fingerboard permanently and try to varnish under it, having done so with the fingerboards off for the previous three. I am curious to find out how many violin makers out there glue their fingerboards permanently and varnish under them, and if they have any special tricks for doing so.
  14. Hi all! I feel a bit paranoid, but I'm afraid for my instrument. I got sick this past week and thought my violin sounded different due to 'sick ears' but I've suddenly noticed that my fingerboard seems noticeably lower (however, I'm not entirely certain this isn't due to sudden onset paranoia caused by the 'sick ears' and I started to wonder if perhaps it's always been this way and I just never noticed, particularly since the violin was not too far out of tune when I took it out). I waited a day to see if maybe it was just my fevered imagination, but the lowered fingerboard actually appears worse this morning. While I was sick I changed the temp in the house a few times due to a bad fever and chills. While my violin has never reacted negatively to temperature or humidity changes in the past (going from the west coast of Canada in winter to Hawaii with no problems at all and even maintaining tuning). The only incident I can recall regarding this sort of thing is when the violin was first moved from Utah to Hawaii my violin teacher took a foam pad of some sort and wedged it beneath the fingerboard to prevent it from dropping due to the climate change. If anyone here has any advice or any opinions I'd love to hear it all. Thanks a bunch! I've also posted this on violinist.com so if anyone uses both sites please feel free to ignore one of my two posts
  15. I seem to recall reading about wiping on and polishing a fingerboard with olive oil as part of setting up. Does anyone do this?
  16. Addie’s Stupid Question of the Week #3: For hollowing the underside of a (violin) fingerboard, how far do you make the hollow from the neck root? I’ve seen numbers from 6mm to about 15mm, with a “blank” typically ~25mm from the neck root. What distance do you use, and why? Taught that way? Acoustic reasons? Other?
  17. Have you ever seen pearl part of fingerboard with the diamond? (glued under the fingerboard)? Do you know anything about this?
  18. Hi there, a few questions: 1. How do you achieve a perfect fingerboard/violin neck fit? It seems I always struggle with this. So far I've been using scrapers. Is there an easier/better way? I can never seem to get that 100% perfect fit. 2. How do you get rid of scratch marks on a fingerboard? Do you sand it with fine grid sandpaper? 3. What do you use to polish the fingerboards? Thank you. Hopefully someone can answer these, and maybe someone else can learn from it as well.